engine ground
- Thread starter HBe9
- Start date
There is a tab on firewall near heater hoses, I ran mine to intake stub manifold. With carbs, under rear carb bolt under manifold.
Loc
i ran mine from the block to the frame down on the right side
i ran mine from the block to the frame down on the right side
MyFemurHurts
Well-Known Member
I'll also add that having small hands, double joints, or a third knuckle is important when attaching the ground to the firewall with the engine in the car.
Close your eyes. Breathe deeply. Pour a shot. Then call the neighborhood kid with the skinny arms and little hands to do it for two bucks.
i got a longer flat braided ground strap (thank you Luis) ... and ran it from the left fender wall to one of the oil filter bolts ... as there was no way i could get in there to get that short strap in there ... that's one of the things thats a lot easier to do when the engine is going back into the car.
I strongly suggest multiple grounds. If you look at my thread on what I've found when pulling my engine drain plug, I suspect some form of electrolysis or galvanic corrosion was at work in my car for a very long time before I bought it. Improper grounds would have contributed to this problem.
Not only was my car missing grounds, it is likely that the retards who installed the beefed up stereo for the prior owner did not properly ground the stereo. Stray currents from this likely contributed to the corrosion I have found (in addition to the melted fuse block and lights and wires).
I've done the fender wall to oil filter bolt, and beefed up the ground from my alternator to that same location. I am also planning to ground my transmission to the tab location Chris mentioned. A separate ground for the transmission is a good idea (and cheap insurance).
Not only was my car missing grounds, it is likely that the retards who installed the beefed up stereo for the prior owner did not properly ground the stereo. Stray currents from this likely contributed to the corrosion I have found (in addition to the melted fuse block and lights and wires).
I've done the fender wall to oil filter bolt, and beefed up the ground from my alternator to that same location. I am also planning to ground my transmission to the tab location Chris mentioned. A separate ground for the transmission is a good idea (and cheap insurance).
In addition to the stock battery to fender strap, I have battery to alternator case, alternator case to block, and valve cover to firewall strap.
MyFemurHurts
Well-Known Member
I also ran another strap from the valve cover to the firewall, but I like the fender wall to oil filter idea.
I was chasing a bouncing temp gauge, and as a result of all the grounds I fixed my bouncing fuel level needle.
Damn temp gauge still goes nuts every now and again, so I need a new gauge, but at least I'm well grounded.
alan here
yes the more the better
yes the more the better
Check whether your gauge is grounded to a common ground location, or separately. A consolidated ground is best.
this is next on my list - to use the other piece of coupe jewelry (Luis' regular flat strap) and tie the alternator to the engine. i also have the firewall to valve cover ground.
the common grounds inside of the dash need to be checked every now and then to make sure it hasn't loosened up. if the grounds are tight, look for a shredded wire that is rubbing on a piece of metal back there.
MyFemurHurts
Well-Known Member
Had a mirror on a stick and didn't see anything chaffing or rubbing.
Removed all connections, cleaned, recrimpted the spade connectors, and reattached it.
Needle moves through the arc normally during the warm up cycle, but once it sits a hair under 3 o'clock, it'll go to three quarter scale hot, and if I hit the gauge face with my finger, it'll go right back down to a hair under 3.
I ran a jumper from the temp sensor into the back of the gauge, and thought it was the wire since the needle didn't move. Then I drove around some more, and it did it again.
I'm thinking the winding is not happy, and a reman'ed gauge is $80 or so. I'm dreading the PITA job of replacing it though.
The Combo gauge is the easiest to remove, you're lucky it isn't speedo or tach!
Where have you been Don? That kid is coding for a web startup making 400 dollars an hour.
Last time he helped you he scratched his Patek Philippe against the alternator.
Arde,
You are obviously well grounded.
Chris
You are obviously well grounded.
Chris
There should be a 7th spark plug wire that carries the ground circuit for the spark plugs.
Even a 7th dummy spark plug that is made of solid copper to attach that wire to.
Like many other useless concepts, you heard it here first.
On second thought.........oh never mind.
Mike Goble
Well-Known Member
The alternator case is the most negative connection point in the system, all current from a running engine returns here. A good ground to the block here is important.