Inspiration Photographs

[Patton]

After looking at some of the photographs from a vehicle that was for sale at bring a trailer, I can only tell you that the impression from those pictures was not so good.

Let’s not dwell on that one.

There have been some fantastic photographs from the audience of workmanship you’ve done. I call it inspiration.

Let’s have a little bit of fun and show off your E9 with a picture that will inspire others.

Let me see if I can find one. Thanks to all, RP.

 

[Patton]

3 inch oval pipe goes into 3 inch round pipe to a magna flow exhaust.

I can’t take credit for the work, Tommy at Blue Maxx is an artist with his welding and stainless steel.

 

[Patton]

Seam sealer on the edges of the hood.

B-quiet insulation on the hood.

 

[Patton]

Oops, key hole has been filled.

 

[Patton]

Oops: No more washer holes in the hood.

 

[paul cain]

Fjord. Fjord. Fjord.

 

[JMinPDX]

Nice work!
As someone once said:
“It ain’t bragging if you can do it”.

 

[Patton]

Fjord. Fjord. Fjord.

Oh yea!

Thanks, Paul!

 

[eriknetherlands]

Hope this one inspires: I chopped out a rusted rear valance; rust inside the seams to the floor, rust at the bumper holes, rust on the side edges where flange-pinch welded to the side QP's. Then refitting the tail light lenses and making sure the gap and flushness is better then when it left the factory.

Nasty looked like this under 10 mm (1/3rd inch) of bondo:

first fit, showing original gap to rear quarter panel. Then fill with lead and shave to correct depth (flushness):

And fill and shave for a consistent correct gap; i choose 2mm (0.08 inch):

et voila:

Took me around 200 hours over 3 months - I never did it such serious welding & lead filling before...
(let me know if you have some improvement suggestions!)

 

[paul cain]

Hope this one inspires: I chopped out a rusted rear valance; rust inside the seams to the floor, rust at the bumper holes, rust on the side edges where flange-pinch welded to the side QP's. Then refitting the tail light lenses and making sure the gap and flushness is better then when it left the factory.

Nasty looked like this under 10 mm (1/3rd inch) of bondo:
View attachment 180413 View attachment 180412

View attachment 180399 View attachment 180401
first fit, showing original gap to rear quarter panel. Then fill with lead and shave to correct depth (flushness):
View attachment 180402 View attachment 180403
And fill and shave for a consistent correct gap; i choose 2mm (0.08 inch):

View attachment 180405
et voila:

View attachment 180404

Took me around 200 hours over 3 months - I never did it such serious welding & lead filling before...
(let me know if you have some improvement suggestions!)

Extremely impressive effort. Few understand that so much of the quality on a beautiful paint job is done at this metal stage. This is a vivid example where few will appreciate the tight gap to the edge of the taillamp frame. Most shops would achieve this gap with more bondo. When it is finished, to the masses, it just overall looks like quality but they couldn't tell you why.

Note also the tight gap from the rear valence to the rear fender (Low center of photo). Its perfect.

Also notice right edge of photo where Erik is similarly torturing himself with future bumper fit. Especially when you return the first two images Erik posted.

Belissima!

 

[Breiti]

Ok,
got one here.
What do you think first?
......

Breiti

 

[eriknetherlands]

Shifterboot? Either very nicely re-made, or very nicely preserved.

 

[Breiti]

It's a original, fresh greased.
It's pretty stiff, hope I get it soft again.

Breiti

 

[BarneyT]

Just rolled over 10k miles since completin…

 

[eriknetherlands]

10k? That's great & a real inspiration to me!

Talking about inspiration:
You know the record is at least 430.000 miles (I believe, by Blumax?)

 

[Stevehose]

You know the record is at least 430.000 miles (I believe, by Blumax?)

Yes but not the original engine

 

[Patton]

Oops, rear side marker lenses fell off. Don’t tell the DOT.

RP

 

[Patton]

All holes for side trim were welded. I thought it would look good without the trim.

It doesn’t/didn’t.

Trim was added back with 3M double stick tape.The tape really helps with alignment.After 2 years the tape hasn’t lifted, good stuff.

 

[otter74]

Hope this one inspires: I chopped out a rusted rear valance; rust inside the seams to the floor, rust at the bumper holes, rust on the side edges where flange-pinch welded to the side QP's. Then refitting the tail light lenses and making sure the gap and flushness is better then when it left the factory.

Nasty looked like this under 10 mm (1/3rd inch) of bondo:
View attachment 180413 View attachment 180412

View attachment 180399 View attachment 180401
first fit, showing original gap to rear quarter panel. Then fill with lead and shave to correct depth (flushness):
View attachment 180402 View attachment 180403
And fill and shave for a consistent correct gap; i choose 2mm (0.08 inch):

View attachment 180405
et voila:

View attachment 180404

Took me around 200 hours over 3 months - I never did it such serious welding & lead filling before...
(let me know if you have some improvement suggestions!)

Man, that is some nice work!

 

[Patton]

Erik’s work is inspirational!

Thanks Erik.

RP