1972 Bavaria - Full build and swap

Very interesting and thorough build history. Thank you for posting!

I like the metal fuel lines, and the use of D38999 aircraft-grade connectors to route wiring through the firewall caught my attention.

I also noticed the chrome deletion along the body line; with the proper paint, I feel that body line is elegant and simple, and requires no chrome for "highlights." Great discussion of the wiring issues, and additional details regarding your choice of SpeedHut custom gauges. Significant mods to the engine bay, and nice documentation of soundproofing and interior.

Eventually, I think a lot of people here would love to hear a recoding of the sound of your M30B35 under acceleration with the ITB's....

Looking forward to seeing your next set of posts and images.
 
It’s funny because I feel like we are often striking a balance between being “period correct” and “upgraded” with some of our mods, and if you throw that period correct concept out the window if really opens up options. Again, not for everyone and clearly not a car built for resale value, but as an artistic expression this is definitely a unique and technically impressive vehicle
 
e9Leveque said:
It’s funny because I feel like we are often striking a balance between being “period correct” and “upgraded” with some of our mods, and if you throw that period correct concept out the window if really opens up options. Again, not for everyone and clearly not a car built for resale value, but as an artistic expression this is definitely a unique and technically impressive vehicle
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I definitely didn't go into this with the idea of maintaining any kind of originality, but I also didn't want to completely change the car. While more mods than usual, the outside body is largely left alone and the interior still has some of the 70's flair.

By the end of the restoration process, it became more about the process than the end product though. I just liked doing certain things... making small brackets, maintaining a specific aesthetic (keep everything hidden), wiring, etc. I can also now fully understand how a project can be derailed... life gets in the way or some tasks can just feel huge when you don't know how to do a particular install.
 
More pics and progress... engine bay work...

Getting the initial intake onto the B35 manifold... I used some pre-bent aluminum tubing and a K&N filter. I welded in a intake air temp bung and a simple bracket that mounted it to the valve cover.


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Switching back to the trunk and the air ride setup...

Test fitting the tank...

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Mounting the compressors, power wiring, and controller (this will all be on the back of the tank).


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I used aluminum tubing as hard lines to clean up the look a bit. These are pretty easy to bend. Also making an appearance is my Datsun.

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All finished... some of the lines run into the back seat area, while the rears connect under the trunk floor.

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Inside the wheel wells... This is the front setup. Pretty similar to a coilover where the factory strut assembly is cut and the bag over strut setup is welded in place. You can also see the sensors that keep the car level. I was also redoing my calipers. I installed Wilwoods, but I was repainting in a gloss black.

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Rear setup...

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A bit more interior work...

I didn't get any action shots of getting the wood veneer on the dash and door panels (I used the wood strips from the S model), but here are the end results. This is ebony veneer with a matte clear.


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Getting the new AC controls in place on the dash. I removed the factory wood finish on the metal trim, as well as the polished metal outer piece.


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There's so much wiring under the dash and I really wasn't ready for that... new to wiring. This was my attempt to get a handle on the ground, signal and power. This is just to let anyone else that is dealing with this know you aren't alone ;)

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For those that don't know, the S wood trim aligns to the door panel and arm rest differently than the base model without wood. I solved that by filling in the cutouts on the trim, and then veneering over the top of it. This is mostly an issue on the rear seats where the base car arm rest doesn't "shoot" upwards into the wood. You wouldn't be able to just use the factory wood strip and the base model door panels without it looking weird.
 
Getting the interior back together. Recovered the center console side panels and the under dash pieces. The rear seat area was used to house the stereo amp and the battery as seen before. Given age, I had to rebuild the under steering wheel panel and the rear shelf.

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Hood modifications... some of this was due to the removal of the latch mechanism. I used Quick Latch hood "pins" and mounted them to plates at the strut tower. They function via a push button release and are relatively simple looking. I also added hood struts on brackets I made for both the hood and the body. These were loosely based on someone else's post I found here on the boards. These are stainless steel units from McMaster Carr. For the hood insulation, I made templates with tape and poster board and then cut Design Engineering Inc. sheet insulation to fit. It's sticky on oneside and easily sticks to the hood.

I also realized the underhood side was a bit rough with old brackets that were left on during paint, so I removed everything, smoothed them, and then repainted... carefully.

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e30strube said:
Getting the interior back together. Recovered the center console side panels and the under dash pieces. The rear seat area was used to house the stereo amp and the battery as seen before. Given age, I had to rebuild the under steering wheel panel and the rear shelf.

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looks great dude. need a BMW logo horn center though :)
 
I was looking at your engine bay photos again.. and then I realized how much you modified the engine bay:
  • Removed the standard hood latch mechanism, replaced with hydraulic shocks, added hood latch pins near the front shock towers
  • Reduced the size of & sealed off the windshield wiper area
  • Sealed all holes inside the engine bay
  • Relocated fuse box and relays to inside the car


Question: can you still install a shock tower brace across the front shock towers?

I've seen basically two variants.. the first variant was on an E24.
www.evasivemotorsports.com

Racing Dynamics Front Strut Brace - BMW E24 Chassis 630CS / 630CSI / 633CSI / 635CSI 6/82-89 / E28 Chassis 528i / 533i / 535i 82-88

Check out the deal on Racing Dynamics Front Strut Brace - BMW E24 Chassis 630CS / 630CSI / 633CSI / 635CSI 6/82-89 / E28 Chassis 528i / 533i / 535i 82-88 at Evasive Motorsports
www.evasivemotorsports.com www.evasivemotorsports.com

The 2nd variant is a custom build from the E9 CSL with Hime joints for tension adjustment. I believe there's an individual in the UK (daddywad) who can fabricate this...
loloe13

Post in thread 'Strut bar.......'

thankyou Andi for your beautiful work!
sorry that it has taken me a while to upload the shots, but as promised, here is your great work!
much appreciated! :p
 
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its quite the build!!! what part of Houston do you live? i lived there in the early 80s (heights + west u) and my wife grew up there ... so we make it back every now and then.
 
@rblongboarder I always intended on putting a strut tower bar in via the plates I installed, but haven't gotten around to it. The plate itself was generally easy and is made with 1/8" steel. I haven't found an off the shelf strut tower bar that is labeled for E3 use. The E9 is even different. Not sure if those you referenced fit or not.

@rsporsche I'm in the Cypress area... NW Houston.
 
What an absolutely beautiful build! So clean, great craftsmanship. Very inspiring work!
How do you like the easy jack lifts? Do they leave enough room to really get under the car and work?
 
StephenZ said:
What an absolutely beautiful build! So clean, great craftsmanship. Very inspiring work!
How do you like the easy jack lifts? Do they leave enough room to really get under the car and work?
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I’ll answer the second half and say I love my quickjack BUT @e30strube you may want to change how you’re jacking the car. The areas you’re supporting aren’t as strong as they should be for lifting by the side edges and you run the risk of crimping or bending either the rocker or the fuel lines that run there. QJ just released a cross beam that allows for staggered front and rear lift points, so using that I can lift both front and rear truly on the frame rails. Allows great access and safer for car
 
e9Leveque said:
I’ll answer the second half and say I love my quickjack BUT @e30strube you may want to change how you’re jacking the car. The areas you’re supporting aren’t as strong as they should be for lifting by the side edges and you run the risk of crimping or bending either the rocker or the fuel lines that run there. QJ just released a cross beam that allows for staggered front and rear lift points, so using that I can lift both front and rear truly on the frame rails. Allows great access and safer for car
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I have the normal rectangle "pucks" and the pucks for pinch welds (they have a cross cut into them). Where do you set yours up and which puck do you use?
 
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