Dynamat question

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ajenzo

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I'm thinking of installing 1/2" dynaliner on top of dynamat extreme to insulate the cabin of my coupe as much as I can against heat (it gets very hot). Has anyone had any experience doing this? I also want to be sure that everything fits and works well when I put the car back together.

Thanks.
 
I used Rhinoliner (similar product) in my coupe and it worked fine. There were a lot of tight fitment issues in certain places, but not in the cabin.

BTW, the passenger floorboard still gets pretty toasty in hard driving.
 
I am a huge fan of the stuff. My cabin is lined as much as possible, also used it in my engine bay, bonnet and fire wall. Heat is not much of an issue where I live, but the material made a huge difference as far as the driving experience is concerned, very quiet....how to describe this...the car feels more "quality", 'benz like if you will.
 
My trim guy used a similar product for heat and sound and then used some felt or carpet lining. His concern was that a 1/2 inch would be too thick to get the carpet and panels under around the console.

I have yet to drive it since the carpet and headliner was put back in so I can't speak yet to the improvement. From what I've read the heater by-pass is the best way to minimize heat in the cabin.
 
The 1/2" material over the dynamat will work fine on the floors. However at the top of the transmission hump I would recommend no more than 1/4" total thickness of material there. The space is tight with the heater box. The side carpet also needs to be able to fit under the bottom of the side console panels.

For some help with heat, install the metal exhaust heat shield from a e12/e24 that fits under the downpipes (along side the transmission). Part #51-48-1-832-850.
 
I've used a B-quiet product in the past since it was an asphalt based product, it slid down vertical panels in hot weather (North Carolina and several trips to the southwest) and tended to bleed tar around the edges. I also used it on the inside of a computer case and it slid completely off the panels leaving a thin film of tar and a puddle of tar and backing on the floor of the case. I will never use an asphalt based product again on anything because the B-Quiet product didn't stay in place and it made such a mess.

I now use Damplifier products from Second Skin and after nearly 10 years I am still completely satisfied. These are butyl rubber based materials that are better sound adsorbing than asphalt products and are much easier to use. I read an article on the web many years ago, but I can't seem to find it now, that reported some independent testing that showed a Damplifier product was better at adsorbing sound than asphalt products and was one of the best products with regard to staying in place. The price is very reasonable and they have offered many sales in the past.

http://store.secondskinaudio.com/damplifier/
 
ajenzo said:
I'm thinking of installing 1/2" dynaliner on top of dynamat extreme to insulate the cabin of my coupe as much as I can against heat (it gets very hot). Has anyone had any experience doing this? I also want to be sure that everything fits and works well when I put the car back together.

Thanks.
Click to expand...


I did. I spoke with Dynamat directly and they recommended a layer of their heat protection and a layer of their sound deadening products. I did both, running it from up the firewall down and back to the rear seats. I cannot say that it made any difference to either heat or sound. It did however lighten my wallet.

As was mentioned, covering the tunnel will impact how your center console sides fit. You may want to trim that area back.

If you want to reduce the cabin heat, do the heater core bypass trick. It made a big difference and only costs about $10 and a couple hours of time.
 
exactly same

yup, david is exactly right - i did heat then soundproof, on the ENTIRE car - ton of work, ton of dough, and i couldnt tell it made a bit of difference. plus it added at least 40 lbs to the cars weight.
 

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Stop the heat from the outside

A basic rule in the architectural world is to stop the heat (in this case the sun) before it gets to the outside wall or window. On the car, metal heat shields between the exhaust and underbody help tremendously. I have shields on both the downpipes and above the center Cat. and resonator. I did not notice any heat coming from the floor on a recent hot day idling in freeway traffic. See post #29 for photos of the front shield. http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10824&highlight=ceramic+coating&page=3

For acoustic and heat, Lizard skin makes two nice spray on products.

http://www.lizardskin.com/

For a second line of defense I sprayed their ceramic heat material on both the underside and topside of the tunnel and firewall. The acoustic material is just on the inside. To me the car is quieter with the windows up tight. It is never going to be like a modern car, but I can carry on a phone conversation with everything all closed up. Photos attached.

For those in warm climates the heater bypass makes sense. I use my heater all the time. When it is hot out there is so much heat coming through the windows that I don't think a little heat coming from the heater core makes all that much difference (IMHO).
 

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VB1X 1G vibration dampening compound sprayed throughout the interior with ceramic coated manifolds and an acoustically insulated heat shield off an e32 mounted above the center muffler.
 
For hotter climates not only does it eliminate heat soak in the dash, but the air conditioning from the vent is colder from not being pre-heated.

Sven said:
For those in warm climates the heater bypass makes sense. I use my heater all the time. When it is hot out there is so much heat coming through the windows that I don't think a little heat coming from the heater core makes all that much difference (IMHO).
Click to expand...
 
Has anyone tried wrapping their pipes with exhaust wrap http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WmZa309zbtA
I would think it would help to keep the heat inside the pipes and going out the exhaust at the rear of the car ? I use torch down roofing as a sound deadener on floors and anywhere else you can’t see it but it has very little insulation value. Yeah I know, I’m a cheap old body man :roll:. ~ John Buchtenkirch
 
Regarding heat, anything you can do from the sill line down will give you minimum return when you have a big greenhouse sitting above the sill line. The coupes extra large areas of clear glass, darker interiors and small interior volume yields a perfect solar collector. Window tinting would help the most, but I haven't seen many coupes with it.
 
David said:
I did. I spoke with Dynamat directly and they recommended a layer of their heat protection and a layer of their sound deadening products. I did both, running it from up the firewall down and back to the rear seats. I cannot say that it made any difference to either heat or sound. It did however lighten my wallet.

As was mentioned, covering the tunnel will impact how your center console sides fit. You may want to trim that area back.

If you want to reduce the cabin heat, do the heater core bypass trick. It made a big difference and only costs about $10 and a couple hours of time.
Click to expand...

Can you pls outline the by-pass procedure as I am about to re-commission an E3 after a resto and as I live in the tropics in Australia, would like to know how to reduce any heat when the weather turns warm in the later part of the year (for us here in the Southern Hemisphere). Right now it is "winter" where temp only gets to 20C-24C each day so not so much of an issue.

Thanks

Richard
 
I use a thermal wrap on the exhaust from the manifold down to the 2-1 collector, works a treat, but still some heat gets through, at a guess I would say it halves the heat from the exhaust at minimum
 
Sven said:
A basic rule in the architectural world is to stop the heat (in this case the sun) before it gets to the outside wall or window. On the car, metal heat shields between the exhaust and underbody help tremendously. I have shields on both the downpipes and above the center Cat. and resonator. I did not notice any heat coming from the floor on a recent hot day idling in freeway traffic. See post #29 for photos of the front shield. http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10824&highlight=ceramic+coating&page=3

For acoustic and heat, Lizard skin makes two nice spray on products.

http://www.lizardskin.com/

For a second line of defense I sprayed their ceramic heat material on both the underside and topside of the tunnel and firewall. The acoustic material is just on the inside. To me the car is quieter with the windows up tight. It is never going to be like a modern car, but I can carry on a phone conversation with everything all closed up. Photos attached.

For those in warm climates the heater bypass makes sense. I use my heater all the time. When it is hot out there is so much heat coming through the windows that I don't think a little heat coming from the heater core makes all that much difference (IMHO).
Click to expand...

Very nice work - looks impressive and clean.
 
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