Rear wheel alignment ?

A

Aussiecsi

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,148
Reaction score
349
Location
Perth, Western Australia
I have had an ongoing issue wirh vibration on what appears to be LHS rear .It seeeeems more pronounced when under load/acceleration.

Recently,after parking the car,i noticed that there was the smell of burning rubber and the tyre was warm to touch ( compared to the RHS ) and the rim is not hot . When tthe car is jacked up,the wheel turns freely and it has been suggested that the
 
whoops ....it has been suggested the wheel might be out of alignment. If so, how can this be rectified as i understand alignment is "fixed" on the rear wheels ?

Thanks,
Simon
 
yep, newish bilsteins,lowering springs,driveshaft balanced, LSD rebuilt, half shafts checked, new wheel bearings. Running RC090's ( with hub centrics). 225 Michehin Pilots. No clearance issues.
 
the wheels were swapped/rotated a while ago with a similar outcome . Attention also given to ensuring the rim fitted snugly and fully tightened. The burning rubber smell seems to come from the tread surface which is consistent with the warm- to -touch feeling on the same surface . All this seems to suggest to me that the wheel is not rolling truly and the resulting road friction is generating both the vibration and burning rubber smell .

I intend to get the rear alignment checked (front is fine) but i guess I'm asking what can be done to rectify the wheel alignment if that is indeed the issue. (or what could be causing it ) ?
 
The rear end is not adjustable. if the bushes in the trailing arm to subframe were shot or perhaps the subframe to body bushes loose / bad that would allow the geometry to be out. Other than that a distorted tyre but unlikely with michelin
 
Thanks Ian, yes,trailing arm bushes were on the list too .I know I replaced the two body bushes ( Motorsport type) when restoration commenced in 2013 and others probably done too but maybe the crappy W&N rubber type have failed.
 
a quick check with some string and a tape measure Measure the distance from frt to back on the wheels first and compare side to side see what you come up with Run a string from the frt to the back wheels on each side and see if there is a difference in toe from the side to side Camber you can check with a large square These are some quick although not 100% will be close enough to give you some more clues

Thanks, Rick
 
Are you sure one of the hub-centering rings didn't get lost taking a wheel on and off? Wheels torqued to spec or put on with a wheel gun?
 
if you lost a hub centering ring - wouldn't it be very noticeable if you spin the the wheel while up in the air?
Does it not wobble? A slight 1 mm wobble is not easily noticeable but enough to give you issues.
Also there is also a bearing (I read they were new, but still) that could be bad/damaged, causing some play, causing a wheel wobble and thus excessive thread wear.

Now on the alignment: others posted that there is no adjustment, but the thrust rods are mounted to the floor with the 2 m8 bolts: the thrust rods do have slotted holes.
Secondly, the mounting of the rear axle to the subframe is done with the rubber bushes over the thick pin in the floor. That rubber part is encased in a steel structure which also has slotted holes. which means the axle can move left to right over these holes (were it not for other nuts and bolts to influence the position of the subframe as well).
1750415294504.png
1750415422123.png
(pics of an NOS part of Ebay)
So there is some freedom in these 2 places on either side, but I'm not sure if it actually influences the position of the axle itself.
 
Last edited:
Aussiecsi said:
I have had an ongoing issue wirh vibration on what appears to be LHS rear .It seeeeems more pronounced when under load/acceleration.

Recently,after parking the car,i noticed that there was the smell of burning rubber and the tyre was warm to touch ( compared to the RHS ) and the rim is not hot . When tthe car is jacked up,the wheel turns freely and it has been suggested that the
Click to expand...
225/50 runs very close to the tale pipe.
Check the clearance.
Good luck.
Matthew
 
eriknetherlands said:
if you lost a hub centering ring - wouldn't it be very noticeable if you spin the the wheel while up in the air?
Does it not wobble? A slight 1 mm wobble is not easily noticeable but enough to give you issues.
Also there is also a bearing (I read they were new, but still) that could be bad/damaged, causing some play, causing a wheel wobble and thus excessive thread wear.

Now on the alignment: others posted that there is no adjustment, but the thrust rods are mounted to the floor with the 2 m8 bolts: the thrust rods do have slotted holes.
Secondly, the mounting of the rear axle to the subframe is done with the rubber bushes over the thick pin in the floor. That rubber part is encased in a steel structure which also has slotted holes. which means the axle can move left to right over these holes (were it not for other nuts and bolts to influence the position of the subframe as well).
View attachment 204328 View attachment 204329(pics of an NOS part of Ebay)
So there is some freedom in these 2 places on either side, but I'm not sure if it actually influences the position of the axle itself.
Click to expand...
I also noticed that, at least on E-12 chassis cars, which are very close to the E9, there are two types of trailing arm bushings. Plain and eccentric. If yours are eccentric, then it may be that they were not put in the same as they were taken out, and that would cause the trailing arm to either toe in or toe out, depending on how the eccentrics are positioned.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top