Hello from Arizona! New E9 owner!

[Minivansomeren]

Hi all, the E9 has been a favorite car of mine since graduating college and I’m finally in a position to purchase one. I have a ratty E30 race car that I work on, but I don’t have experience keeping an old car “nice,” let alone doing any sort of restoration. So I’m still deciding how much of a project I want to take on, versus spending more on something somebody else has restored. I’ve read through the whole pre-purchase rust inspection thread and I’m hoping that, being in Arizona, the climate will stop or at least slow any minor/moderate preexisting rust issues. Is that reasonable?

Also, please talk to me about color! I’m partial to solid bright colors (Mint Green, Pastel Blue, Inka, Golf) but I know those are quite rare, especially on the non-CSL models that I can afford. I think they add an element of 70s fun to an otherwise extremely classy car. I’m not set on this - I’d be happy to drive an E9 in any color - but I’d considered a respray in one of these colors if I need to do any body work, versus a wrap to protect good paint underneath. I see one or two threads about wraps but nobody has gone through with it? Also, if I’m considering a re-spray, when does this start to affect value? Does having the original color only matter on numbers-matching cars, or is it important for all? It seems counter-intuitive that swapping a newer 6-cyl motor and a 5-speed can increase the value, but having a non-original color (even if it’s a factory option) might hurt the value.

Lastly, I just posted a question about “migrating fenders” i.e. movement of the front strut towers:

Thread 'Talk to me about “migrating fenders” i.e. front strut towers moving upward!'

Jul 15, 2025

Hi everybody, I’m new and in the market to buy an E9. I’ve read most of the excellent resources on here about inspecting and buying. One thing I’ve seen mentioned several times is the “migrating fenders” where the front strut tower bulges up and rubs the hood.

I haven’t seen any discussion of the significance. Is this caused by rusting of the inner fender spaces? I.e. does it signify hidden decay? Additionally, have there been problems caused by this, such as affecting hood alignment? I know rear shock towers occasionally blow out (metal fatigue) but has anybody seen this front tower...

• Minivansomeren
• Replies: 11
• Forum: E9 Discussion

I think that’s all for now but I’m sure I’ll have more questions as I move forward with a purchase. I’ll be bidding on BAT as well as watching the for sale section here. But feel free to point me in the direction of any coupes with “good bones” whether they are well restored or need some mechanical work or a restored interior.

I’m really glad to see that this forum exists with so many active and knowledgeable contributors!

 

[rsporsche]

hi and welcome to e9coupe ... in regard to colors of e9 coupes. check out this FAQ section ... it lists all of the colors used on the coupe and what models / years the colors were utilized.

Thread 'E9 Paint Colors'

Jun 3, 2020

The following paint colors were available as below:

(some 3.0CS colors and perhaps all were continued into 1974 MY. 1974+ colors are additional.)

​	2800CS​	3.0CS/i/L​	1974+​
Agave 071	X	X
Amazonas 076			+
Anthrazite 055			+

BMW E3 Limousinen Club e.V. | BMW E3 Lackfarben

Übersich der BMW Aussenlackierungen für den BMW E3

bmw-e3-club.de

This link displays colors applicable to e3, e9, 2002, e12 and e24

...

• HB Chris
• Replies: 37
• Forum: FAQ - Frequently Asked Questions

• 

everybody has different opinions of favorites of the 'bright' colors. Inka + Taiga are always favorites - Taiga is metallic, but Mintgrun is almost the same color but is non-metallic. Golf is a love / hate color - there isn't much of an in between view. the most popular coupe color is polaris (25%), followed by fjord (15%), chamonix (9.5%), baikal (6%), nachtblau (5.35%), verona (5%), malaga (4%), taiga (3.5%), golf (3%), schwarz (3%), inka (2.7%), ceylon (2.6%), colorado (1.1%), turkis (1.05%), riviera (.3%), mintgrun (.15%), pastelblau (none known except 2.5cs)

so if we divide the discussion of 'bright' colors into metallic / non-metallic
non-metallic: inka, verona, golf, colorado, mintgrun, pastelblau, riviera
metallic: taiga, ceylon, turkis, granatrot, baikal

my recommendation is to buy the very best car that you can / choose to afford. buying a car with no rust is always a very desirable thing. fixing rust is generally followed by a full repaint - so add 20k+/- for rust remediation (that's a guess) and 20k +/- repaint (the better the paint job, the more likely it is to exceed my number). and that's for starters.

 

[CSteve]

The key word in rsporsche's post is "starters." Hang on to your wallet it will be a bumpy but well worth it road ahead.

 

[Minivansomeren]

@CSteve and @rsporsche, thanks both of you. I don’t have welding skills and I’ve gathered that the cost of paying somebody to rebuild a rusted structure exceeds the eventual value of the car.

That is why I was asking about cars with “good bones.” I think I can afford a car with little to no rust. But I do have some mechanical ability, and also the patience to refinish and/or replace a bad interior. Those are the kinds of projects I can see myself taking on.

For instance, this has shown up a couple times in the for-sale section. That wiring looks like a mess ‍ and there is enough surface rust underneath to make mechanical work really annoying. But if the seller can send enough pics to convince me that his 20-year-old bodywork is holding and there is no active rust eating it away, then maybe this is the kind of project I can see myself taking on?

L

Thread '1973 3.0cs for sale in Boston'

Jun 18, 2025

I'm parting ways with the 1973 3.0cs coupe that I have owned for the 22+ years. It came to me as a car from Texas, but from the amount of rust, I would say it spent considerable time here in the Northeast.
Both fenders and the supporting structure was replaced as well as the rocker panels on both sides. All existing rust was cut out and patch panels welded in where appropriate. This work was also performed on the floor. Any existing rust was treated with acid rust killer and painted with rust prevention coatings. This work was performed by myself over 20 years ago, and has not returned...

• Laldog
• Replies: 32
• Forum: Cars For Sale and Wanted

 

[rsporsche]

of the cars for sale, this is one that i would look at

M30B30-Powered 1971 BMW 2800CS 5-Speed

Bid for the chance to own a M30B30-Powered 1971 BMW 2800CS 5-Speed at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #200,741.

bringatrailer.com

right now with less than 2 days to go, its at 27.3k ... it will go up, but the question is, can you buy it within your budget. its white, so that only meets the requirement of being non-metallic. somebody mentioned that its an 80k car ... i don't think so. i think its probably a 45k car.

the best non-CSL car on the market right now is the riviera 3.0 CSi, its at 75k with 6 days to go ... and this is going to cross 125k ... probably 145k to 150k

Euro 1972 BMW 3.0CSi

Bid for the chance to own a Euro 1972 BMW 3.0CSi at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #201,273.

bringatrailer.com

 

[Minivansomeren]

of the cars for sale, this is one that i would look at

M30B30-Powered 1971 BMW 2800CS 5-Speed

Bid for the chance to own a M30B30-Powered 1971 BMW 2800CS 5-Speed at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #200,741.

bringatrailer.com

right now with less than 2 days to go, its at 27.3k ... it will go up, but the question is, can you buy it within your budget. its white, so that only meets the requirement of being non-metallic. somebody mentioned that its an 80k car ... i don't think so. i think its probably a 45k car.

the best non-CSL car on the market right now is the riviera 3.0 CSi, its at 75k with 6 days to go ... and this is going to cross 125k ... probably 145k to 150k

Euro 1972 BMW 3.0CSi

Bid for the chance to own a Euro 1972 BMW 3.0CSi at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #201,273.

bringatrailer.com

yes 45k is in my budget. I was the second-highest bidder for the black coupe in Canada that sold yesterday for $49k. I would have put new wheels on, removed the chrome CSL wheel arch trim, and removed the front splitter, but otherwise that car looked very good to my (admittedly new) eye. This white one is a bit more of a question mark because it has never had any rust remediation done. The rockers seem to have a tiny bit of bubbling but mostly look intact aside from some surface rust. I would assume that there is some rust on the invisible inner rockers but probably not terrible if the rocker paint looks this good after over 50 years? But I know I’m new at this and experienced advice is why I’m here. Also, compared to the Ontario car this interior is rougher and the engine is not detailed, but those aren’t huge concerns for me.

And re: color, I’m pretty happy to buy a good car in any color, metallic or not. I was mostly inquiring about the feasibility of a wrap in my preferred color, or a possible re-spray down the road.

 

[rsporsche]

i will caution you that i do not think the coupe is a good car to wrap - in my limited knowledge of the process. there is no place to start / stop a lot of the wrap as the body keeps going. it will have to be seamed in many places ... the front fenders transition continuously up the A pillar, across the roof and down the C pillars to the rear fenders. the hood, doors + trunk are easy as they are all separate pieces ... but the front fenders also wrap to the front and the rear fenders wrap around the back. if you put a wrap around the car, the door cutouts, underside of the trunk lid, the engine compartment remain the original painted color. just don't think that will look good - IMHO.

 

[Minivansomeren]

i will caution you that i do not think the coupe is a good car to wrap - in my limited knowledge of the process. there is no place to start / stop a lot of the wrap as the body keeps going. it will have to be seamed in many places ... the front fenders transition continuously up the A pillar, across the roof and down the C pillars to the rear fenders. the hood, doors + trunk are easy as they are all separate pieces ... but the front fenders also wrap to the front and the rear fenders wrap around the back. if you put a wrap around the car, the door cutouts, underside of the trunk lid, the engine compartment remain the original painted color. just don't think that will look good - IMHO.

Thanks, seams are good things to keep in mind. And of course you’re right, that door sills and engine compartment will be giveaways to the original color. But I’m not looking to fool anybody at car shows or win any concourses. I’m looking to enjoy driving a car in a fun color and protect the underlying paint.

I saw this thread where @scottevest has been considering this for the same reasons. And it looks like you were vocal about the same concerns in that thread. I’ll be watching it closely to see how it turns out.

Thread 'Plan to wrap MY BABY in Golf 070 - thoughts?'

Jun 17, 2025

Hi everyone,

It's been awhile since I posted. MY BABY is in need of some paint/body work (very minor). Instead of fixing the issues, which are minor and expected after all this time given I didn't do full bare metal restoration, I am going to do a wrap instead. I always loved the Golf 070 color, shown here, and wanted your thoughts before I pull the trigger.

I was planning on using 3M materials, and HG Bright Yellow is very similar.

Any thoughts/concerns you might have are appreciated, e.g. should I use 3M or Avery or...

• scottevest
• Replies: 41
• Forum: E9 Discussion

Maybe I’m getting ahead of myself since I don’t have a coupe yet, but I have been thinking about how much to weigh my color preference when shopping. Even if I decide to wrap, I think a neutral base color like black, white, or silver would be less noticeable in the engine bay and trunk lid than something like red. So that’s a good point to consider, thanks.

 

[rsporsche]

my 2800cs was originally baikal, a beautiful color ... but there are 3 of them in the ATL area already ... didn't want a 4th. a PO painted my car black. i repainted it Ceylon as i wanted a 70s color. ceylon was a 3.0 cs color, not a 2800cs color. in reality my car is a bit of a restomod but is very traditional coupe - 3.5L engine, 5 speed, scheel sport seats / csl rear seats, figured wood dash, petri steering wheel, 15" alpina style wheels ... and other things. not a concours car, but it will be finished to a pretty high level.

 

[Stan]

Welcome to the fold. You will see a lot of possible colors. As already stated, there are common colors and rare colors. Pick something that will please you over the long term. Some super rare colors like Colorado make a statement. Others like Turkis and Taiga look amazing on the coupe.

 

[BimRLuvR]

Hi Mini- welcome to the forum and its very wise of you to ask these questions. I would recommend a PPI (pre-purchase inspection) on any car you are interested in. As you know, they are notorious for rusting from the inside out. Even if its on BAT, you can network around to find a competent mechanic in the area to inspect your prospect car. Its the best ~$500 you will spend for informed peace of mind. Personally, I would rather spend more for a car that is either ultra clean or already been restored. Good luck finding the the car of your dreams! As BAT says, these cars are the epitome of cool!

 

[tdgray]

Welcome…. Scott has imparted a significant amount of wisdom here.

Definitely heed his advise.

The chamonix car on BAT looks like a nice driver which is probably what you are going to get in that price range.

I’m pleased that you recognize the monster that rust can be and that hiring someone to remediate will potentially exceed the value of the car. That’s a very good insight.

I would also deter you away from the wrap. An E9 is a bit too complicated for that. So many things would have to come off to do it right… you might as well paint it.

Good luck.

 

[Minivansomeren]

Hi all, I’ve had some people reach out thinking of selling their coupes. I should update this thread that things moved more quickly than I anticipated and I won the second auction that I bid in. My coupe is ready to be picked up from the seller, and I’ll post a pic when it arrives in Flagstaff! But I’m no longer in the market for a coupe.

 

[CSteve]

Can you tell us which BaT auction you won so we can see your new ride?

Thanks

 

[CSteve]

Just matched screen names. Lovely coupe well bought. Going back to look again.

For those of you looking it is the M30 B30 Chaminoix coupe on BaT

 

[Minivansomeren]

Yeah, it doesn’t match my color preference but I was realizing that coupes in my favorite colors will be really hard to come by. Everything else (upgraded drivetrain and brakes, original low-rust body) is really encouraging.

I’m still toying with the idea of a wrap, despite the cautions of people on here. I think wrapping over white paint will be less noticeable in the engine bay and trunk lid, etc than a less neutral color. I’d probably remove the trim myself and trailer it to a wrap shop. But for now I’m going to drive it and enjoy the chamonix which I do really like. And the first project for this winter will be refreshing the AC so I can enjoy it more next summer.

 

[HB Chris]

Chamonix is a great color!

 

[Minivansomeren]

That looks great @HB Chris I especially like the smaller wheels. Mine has 16s which I think look fine, but if it didn't have the big willwood brake kit I would downsize. Maybe I'll see if I can fit some 15" BBS-style wheels over the willwoods at some point?

Also, let me update my to-do list in order:
-Thorough rust check with a borescope, followed by spraying Eastwood internal frame coating into all the cavities and panel spaces
-Consult my friend regarding the carburetor tune at elevation (we live at 7000')
-Routine maintenance (valve adjustment, maybe brake, diff and transmission fluid change if I don't have a record of them being done)
-Get the AC working
-Address cooling system (new radiator?) to handle Arizona heat without blowing a head gasket
-Fix power rear window lifts. As long as I'm removing that interior trim, I'll probably re-route the C pillar drains and consider taking off the exterior chrome for a wrap

My first question for item 1 is how deep to I go looking for rust? I bought a borescope and plan to look into the front wheel well sand traps (also called rifle stock?) as well as the holes in the rockers and frame rails. Clean out any rust scale with a flexy magnet and spray in the Eastwood coating with a flexy nozzle.

However I've seen some people mention removing the front strut-tower insulation in the engine bay looking for rust. Also peeling away the rubberized underbody coating and unbolting a panel in the wheel well that I think leads to the lower front fenders? Is that something that is recommended for all cars, or only if you are planning on a bare metal resto? My passenger strut tower has signs of rubbing on the hood, but otherwise they look ok. Maybe I'll do a gentle "screwdriver test" and if I don't poke through any corroded metal, I'll leave that area alone? Are there any other cavities where I can stick the borescope and spray protectant? Is there any way to get into that infamous space right under the seam where the front fender meets the body?

 

[HB Chris]

My carbs were tuned at sea level and I had no issues driving up Pike’s Peak last July.

 

[mulberryworks]

Yeah, it doesn’t match my color preference but I was realizing that coupes in my favorite colors will be really hard to come by. Everything else (upgraded drivetrain and brakes, original low-rust body) is really encouraging.

I’m still toying with the idea of a wrap, despite the cautions of people on here. I think wrapping over white paint will be less noticeable in the engine bay and trunk lid, etc than a less neutral color. I’d probably remove the trim myself and trailer it to a wrap shop. But for now I’m going to drive it and enjoy the chamonix which I do really like. And the first project for this winter will be refreshing the AC so I can enjoy it more next summer.

That's the color of my car as well. I find it interesting that after several years of new cars being various shades of gray, some interesting colors have shown up on the streets. Some are a close match to Chamonix, though they are mostly a fine metallic version. I've seen close matches to Ceylon and Turkis as well. Not that we should use current auto fashion to guide our automotive choices.

If you do pursue removing the trim and roundels yourself, use extreme caution. The long pieces of aluminum side trim are not easy to repair or replace. The C pillar roundels are enamel glass and if the posts are tweeked during removal the glass will break. They are bolted on from the inside, like the trim. Many get broken because unknowing people try to pry them off from the outside. The 'vents' on the fenders are held on by circular metal clips that bite into the plastic making them very hard to remove without damage to the plastic pegs. One solution is to use short screws to fasten them back on using the screws to replace the damaged pegs.

Read more about the C pillar roundels in post #6 of this thread.

Post in thread 'C Pillar roundels'

Feb 7, 2020

It looks like your original ones were damaged during removal at some point. The copper base flexed and broke the glass.

This guy's page says he can do it. I don't know if it makes economic sense as it's quite intensive. I do know that good ones are quite rare and expensive now. The plating will have to be removed from the copper, then the glass where it's been broken (perhaps all of it, I don't know). Once the metal substrate is back in its proper shape, new glass will be added and the roundel fired. Then it will be cleaned and plated...

• mulberryworks

• 

The link to the artist who can repair these automotive treasures is out of date. Here is a current one to his site.

Maxwell Enamels | Gallery

Browse through a wide variety of automobile emblems that Maxwell Enamels has restored by visiting my website today.

maxwellenamels.com

As others have said, if you are going to go to the trouble of removing enough trim, mirrors and locks to do a convincing wrap, you might as well paint it, though that will cost more. It will look better and last longer.