Alternator upgrade

And a few more measurements. The span between the attachment point and the tension adjuster bolt is 150mm on the original, 135 mm on the new. As mentioned previously the attachment hole is an M10, on the original the tensioner hole is a non-threaded M8 while on the new it’s a threaded M6. I don’t think that the difference in the span will matter since one would just rotate the tensioner out a bit to take up the slack that 15mm difference could cause, but clearly the M6 hole needs to be reamed out to accept the M8 bolt
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I’ll let you know the answer to that I decide to use this one. Don was suggesting rebuild is better than new. Assessing prices and will determine.
 
my car didn't still have the original radiator, so i used the newer style bracket for the newer alternator ... and then also went with the newer style PS pump that fit the new alternator bracket. i have eliminated the original voltage regulator and am about to cleanup the wiring between the alternator and the voltage regulator ... removing the brown + black wires between them and directly connecting the program tester with the alternator (blue wire) which connects to the charge wire light on the gauge cluster
 
How would I explain to a client that I charged him $450.00 shop time to modify an alternator that doesn’t belong in his car that is going to Legends to be judged?
 
@sfdon you're correct, in that case the alternator rebuild is definitely the way to go. Since I had already ordered this one before you and I talked, when it came I decided to see what was actually different about the two since comments here have ranged from "it's a simple plug and play" to "you're going to have to do some mods". I think I'd say the answer lies somewhere in between, so just hoping that the few minutes of my time with some pictures would help others decide which way they want to go. I am a fairly visual person so for the upgrades/rebuilds that I have been doing to the car (rear window motors, relay wiring, etc), having a lot of photos available helps me understand what it is I'm looking at. Many of you guys are FAR more well-versed in all the different BMW models and their interchangeability and likely find these pictures not as useful. That's ok, they're just taking up a little bit of server space for anyone who needs them :)
Hope Portugal is treating you well, I'm sure it's better weather than the atmospheric river that is starting in Seattle this week.
 
How would I explain to a client that I charged him $450.00 shop time to modify an alternator that doesn’t belong in his car that is going to Legends to be judged?
IF you are doing a concours car, a car built to original standards or a car that will be judged, rebuilt is the way to go. if you are building a car that might be built to a very high level, but not original, a newer alternator looks the part. my car is the latter - it is far from an original car, except the shell of the body ... but the paint color, the engine, transmission, wheels, interior, steering column, dash / wood is all very different than original 2800cs. i am hard pressed to say what might be original to the car when it was built - other than the sheet metal and maybe the diff, the gauges and some of the original wiring. it follows the 'improvement' approach - a restomod that looks a lot like how an original car might have looked
 
@sfdon you're correct, in that case the alternator rebuild is definitely the way to go. Since I had already ordered this one before you and I talked, when it came I decided to see what was actually different about the two since comments here have ranged from "it's a simple plug and play" to "you're going to have to do some mods". I think I'd say the answer lies somewhere in between, so just hoping that the few minutes of my time with some pictures would help others decide which way they want to go. I am a fairly visual person so for the upgrades/rebuilds that I have been doing to the car (rear window motors, relay wiring, etc), having a lot of photos available helps me understand what it is I'm looking at. Many of you guys are FAR more well-versed in all the different BMW models and their interchangeability and likely find these pictures not as useful. That's ok, they're just taking up a little bit of server space for anyone who needs them :)
Hope Portugal is treating you well, I'm sure it's better weather than the atmospheric river that is starting in Seattle this week.


I’m in Haarlem checking in on Arde’s car..

Sad day today. A beautiful painted car and no friend to celebrate it with.

I think Arde will always live on with all his friends…



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Arde actually had a great sense of humor and was a very kind and generous man.

I remember the day I opened the trunk to his coupe and found his box of awards given to him for his patents. Arde was a very smart guy that loved to laugh.


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Arde actually had a great sense of humor and was a very kind and generous man.

I remember the day I opened the trunk to his coupe and found his box of awards given to him for his patents. Arde was a very smart guy that loved to laugh.


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I apologise if I am out of touch as I have been in Lyon at the Festival of Lights. Has something happened to Arde?
 
e9Leveque apologies for the brief and blunt responses, I (try) to run a busy restoration shop here in London and am often travelling.
As you and others have found out, that Bosch AL655N is a quick and cost effective way of getting a reliable 100amp alternator in your pride and joy for those that need the extra juice for retrofits like electric fans, uprated condenser fans, heated seats, stereos etc. I do not take credit for this at all. Forum member Mike Goble discovered the GM CS-130 style of alternators drop into these cars with minimal fuss, all I did is cross reference his to this new readily available Bosch part. Well done to explaining it in more detail, others will no doubt benefit.
For those who want to stick with the original alternator for whatever reason, rebuilding yours requires no particular skill set. Access to a proper soldering iron and a press is a bonus. If your specialist or garage is not willing to undertake this for you, find another garage. All you need is a new front and rear bearing, slip ring, brush set, voltage regulator and a of can paint. All easily available. Takes about an hour.

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Wow. Mind blown. These is the most clear and yet minimalistic photo set I’ve encountered. I feel like I’m in a Good Will Hunting moment here where you have this amazing equation on the board that I could have never derived on my own. So, to make it explicitly clear;
1. Disassemble alternator
2. Replace bearings - looks like part number 12311714522
3. Replace the slip ring - can you list the part number, as it looks covered up in the photos. I assume it’s the one beginning with A
4. Use the press to push the slip ring onto the part holding the wire coil.
5. Attach brush holder assembly part number 1124336047
6. Use gasket number 189812
7. Reassemble

Anything into endocrine the wire coil? Which of the above parts is the part that wears out and requires replacement primarily in this rebuild? As you mentioned, many of us may want to increase the amperage slightly. Any way to do this in this rebuild?
Thanks, this information is awesome to have
 
You are most welcome. The slip ring is BMW part number: 12311354689. No longer available. 'AS' in Poland are who make them, their number is ASL9005. We buy them in packs of 10. I hope this helps and have fun. Link here

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Yes, sadly he and his wife did not survive a car accident.
That is so sad. We used to cross swords from time to time but he was a very entertaining man whom I hoped to meet some day. Which car was he driving as I know he had either a Lancia or Alfa as well as his BMW.
 
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