5 Spd Shift lever question

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Mich

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Hi,

I'm in the middle of the transfer from 4 to 5 speed. I've read the tech FAQ, really helpfull so far!

Everything is mounted up under the car en fits good. The only thing is when I want to select reverse, the shift lever hits the center console inside the car. The same happens when selecting the 5th gear.

I think I used the wrong shift lever. Please see pic below, I've used shift lever number 1. Can somebody tell me which I need to use?

And does anybody know the BMW partnumber of the plastic rod that's pointed with the arrow?

Thnx for you help!
 

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don't know which you should use, but it seems to me that the shorter the distance between the ball and the end of the arm would make for a longer throw on the lever. therefore, the longer the distance below, the shorter the throw above.
 
On the original 4 speed, it's part# 23411466120 (#2 in the diagram), called a "bush" and there are 2 of them. If it's the same diameter hole for your 5 speed then it should work.

B0016899.png
 
If you know what kind of car your shifter came from you could make sure you get the right sized bushing
 
I've just picked up a longer shifter (between the ball and the end).
Click to expand...

With this longer distance check that the bottom clears the rubber guibo unit. There is not a lot of clearance between the two. What you have described is a partial short shift method. The other half may require raising the seat that the ball sits in (if clearance is an issue).
 
I bought a short shift kit made by UCC sold by Mesa, I think it was for an M3. This Cured the problem of whacking the side of the console and made for a nice tight pattern
 
echappe said:
I bought a short shift kit made by UCC sold by Mesa, I think it was for an M3. This Cured the problem of whacking the side of the console and made for a nice tight pattern
Click to expand...


Thnx for sharing this. First I'll try to make a good shifter with the parts I've or easily access to have. Will post my experience this week.
 
Yessss, I've welded my own shifter. The space between de ball and the end is now 20mm and it shifts perfectly and doenst hit anything!

Now waiting for the new driveshaft, before I can try the new gearbox!
 
Hi everyone,
While looking for some other info on the shift lever, I came across this thread. And I have exctly the same problem:
I just had a 5 gearbox installed. Which I am totally satisfied with. But despite my mechanic best efforts, the lever is hitting the center console on all the "upper" gears. We all know this problem when shifting into reverse: the lever does hit the edge of the center console after passing the "hard spot".
Well I am now banging the upper edge of the console on mainly 1st, 3rd too and 5th not so bad. At some point, at a red light for example, If I don't push all the way the lever on 1st, the gear just pops out. Same on 3rd I sometimes "miss it", and I get the horrible cracking of gears not meshing but "rubbing"...
So, I just dismounted the center console to se what can be done.
I can see that the lever is in 2 portions: the staight one that comes out of the console, and a lower part, after the cone, with an important angle. There must also be some kind of rotule in there, I beleive.
So I was thinking, if there is some kind of adjustment, I could simply offset the straight lever a little to the right, and a little backwards, so as to avoid the interference with the console while shifting.
Does anybody know something about this. Or is the angle between the upper and lower parts "fixed"?
As far as I can read, the best solution is to remove the complete lever, cut and weld at a different angle. Am I guessing right?
Thank you guys.
 
The shifter geometry is indeed fixed and I personally solved this issue by cutting and welding the bottom segment of the shifter below the pivot/rotule/ball joint, but:

You should try adding some washers where the platform bolts to the transmission. This will make it stand back from the transmission a few millimeters. With the pivot shifted rearward by, say, 3mm you might expect the interference with the center console to be lessened by 4 or 5mm and an overall shift in the handle position to be around 15mm rearward.

I can’t remember if this is easy to do with the driveshaft and exhaust in their usual positions. I think I’ve been able to get a wrench up there.

One last caution would be: make sure the bolts still have an adequate number of threads engaged with the transmission flange so they don’t pull out and damage the transmission housing and leave you unable to shift. Longer replacement bolts might be necessary.

Let me know if this helps!
 
When I installed the 5 speed I had a new UUC-DSSR shifter assembly sitting on the shelf. I had to send my shift platform back to them for some modification. I am very happy with the new short shifter. The throw is comfortable and there is no slop in the assembly.

I recommend you look at @halboyles site (here) as I recall he is now making shifter parts.
 
Blinkling said:
The shifter geometry is indeed fixed and I personally solved this issue by cutting and welding the bottom segment of the shifter below the pivot/rotule/ball joint, but:

You should try adding some washers where the platform bolts to the transmission. This will make it stand back from the transmission a few millimeters. With the pivot shifted rearward by, say, 3mm you might expect the interference with the center console to be lessened by 4 or 5mm and an overall shift in the handle position to be around 15mm rearward.

I can’t remember if this is easy to do with the driveshaft and exhaust in their usual positions. I think I’ve been able to get a wrench up there.

One last caution would be: make sure the bolts still have an adequate number of threads engaged with the transmission flange so they don’t pull out and damage the transmission housing and leave you unable to shift. Longer replacement bolts might be necessary.

Let me know if this helps!
Click to expand...
Hi Blinking, thank you for advice.
Considering that at home I have no means to lift up the car, and considerning that I didn't feel comfortable with the idea of touching the new gearbox that is working just good, I decided to fix the interference problem in a more simple way: I dismounted the center console, and trimed off the left and upper edges after pulling off the liner, which I just re-glued after I was happy with my job.
It eventually works fine. My lever is not hitting anymore, and I still have about 3 mm clearance. I am just happy as it is.
 

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