Anyone changed a clutch on an E39?

e9Leveque

e9Leveque

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
902
Reaction score
626
Location
Seattle, WA
My son tells me that our E39 540i has a slightly slipping clutch, thus the question. Given that I literally yesterday ended up finishing the replacement of the E9 transmission with its (second) 5-speed, since the first was a bit whiny and rattly, I clearly am up to the job on an E9. Is this job significantly harder on an E39? I planned to look at a couple of youtube videos to guide me on where any additional little differences lie, but seems like it should be much the same job. Drop exhaust, unbolt transmission, remove bellhousing and clutch, replace parts. Figure I'll check the rear main seal and others while in there.
If anyone here has done it, any benefit of aftermarket over just OEM? The car has 125k miles, drives well. I see FCP Euro has these Valeo conversion clutch kits that also changes the flywheel...
 
those 6 speeds are heavy , job is straight forward like the e9 but bigger stuff
you will need inverted torx sockets to remove trans bolts
Ive had issues with aftermarket flywheels chattering but its been eons snice so I don't remeber which brands

BD
 
I haven't done mine, but my car only has 85k miles on it. But I would think the threshold question is how confident are you in your ability to handle the transmission? I did my five speed swap for my coupe on the floor in my garage. I wouldn't try that with the e39. A lift and a transmission jack are must haves for the e39 work.
 
I have a quickjack and a transmission jack so I think I’m ok with the weight. I suspect it’s a coupe-plus type job
 
Hi there
I replaced the clutch and flywheel on my 2003 520ies se at home a few years ago with the car up on blocks and using a trolley jack to manoeuvre the gearbox.
I think I had to use 3 , 1/2” ratchet extension bars joined together to get at the top bolts between the bellhousing and the engine block.
That allows the ratchet to turn back near the rear of the gearbox where there is more room to swing it.
There is not much room between the gearbox tunnel and the bolts on the top of the bellhousing.
Mine is straight 6 , so possibly slightly different to your setup.
No special tools were needed.
Just be careful when working under her
Use axels stands or something.
Good luck with it :)
 
at least the 540i only has a single exhaust (not twin mufflers) and is far more manageable. the worst part of doing the clutch job on an M5 is dealing with that obnoxiously heavy exhaust. the remainder of the job is quite simple, albeit, a little on the heavy side.

side note: you will need the special, slimmed down, but long shafted, T60 Torx socket for the flywheel bolts. i would absolutely service the flywheel and clutch at the same time.

regards,
A
 
Twenty Mike Mike said:
You have the same year and model I do.

Has the CDV been removed?

Click to expand...
This brings back memories. Back in the early 2000s, Dave Zeckhausen (before he started https://www.zeckhausen.com/) used to sell hollowed out CDVs so you could appear to have a CDV in your car even thought it didn't function. Lots of guys wanted to get rid of the way the CDV screwed up your clutch feel, but were worried BMW would try to void their warranty if the noticed it was missing. With the hollow Zeckhausen CDV, BMW couldn't tell (unless they went out and actually did a burn out with your car). I still have one of these in my car.
 
Hmmm I haven’t done the cdv delete. Sounds worthwhile I’ll do it once I’m in there. This will either be me helping my son do it or if I have to do it on my own it will be after I’m done with the E9. Also need to change the refrigerant on the E39, that may be more immediately necessary
 
I will look into this, but if the main reason to have a fake valve was for warranty issues, I’m long past that time period.
 
You want to delete the valve. It acts to reduce hydraulic pressure to the clutch if you release the clutch too quickly. Changes clutch feel and messes up downshifts. My comment was relating to the need to appear to have the stock valve in place, rather than an aftermarket alternative.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top