Program tester needed?

e9Leveque

e9Leveque

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I am still having issues with alternator despite grounding. I’m going to undo some of my taped-up wiring harness to make sure I spliced the blue wires together for my new internally, regulated alternator. At some point in the past I had burned out my green ignition wire and ran a new wire for it but had not included the offshoot going to the program Tester. Currently, I do not have the resistor in line with the coil since I have a Blue Bosch coil and newer starter which doesn’t require this extra green wire, so this may be just an extra ignition line. In an effort to clean up this wiring, I’m wondering whether I can just remove the program tester or whether it actually serves a purpose.
 
Program tester can be removed, however, there is schematic that shows you how to jump pins to remote start the motor without ignition key being on, it also provides dwell, rpm and voltage. Blue wire just runs from B terminal on alt to existing blue at regulator, if not connected warning light will be lit. have you used a voltmeter/multimeter to very standing volts and with engine running?
 
I have an alternator with an internal voltage regulator so the external one has been removed. I know that I didn’t just cut that wire and leave it dangling, but unfortunately it’s all now taped back up so I can’t check my splice. My main issue actually is that the red bulb is not even lighting up with key on so I know the alternator is not getting the signal to do its charging. I’m going to run through the standard troubleshooting steps. Check bulb. Check power going to bulb, etc but if it comes to dealing with the wiring, I just wanted to understand what ramifications there would be of leaving versus removing the program tester. Time for the multimeter to make its appearance and check continuity, voltage, etc.
regarding the program tester, is there any device that still is readily available that actually plugs into it?
 
e9Leveque said:
I have an alternator with an internal voltage regulator so the external one has been removed. I know that I didn’t just cut that wire and leave it dangling, but unfortunately it’s all now taped back up so I can’t check my splice. My main issue actually is that the red bulb is not even lighting up with key on so I know the alternator is not getting the signal to do its charging. I’m going to run through the standard troubleshooting steps. Check bulb. Check power going to bulb, etc but if it comes to dealing with the wiring, I just wanted to understand what ramifications there would be of leaving versus removing the program tester. Time for the multimeter to make its appearance and check continuity, voltage, etc.
regarding the program tester, is there any device that still is readily available that actually plugs into it?
Click to expand...
To get the "L" dash light working with your internally regulated alternator, you need to make sure the wire from the dah is connected with the D+ (depending on make can also be L or 61) from the alternator directly.
This brings the dash light back.
 
Is the program tester something worth creating as a user tool? Given our resources I’m sure we could come up with something
 
@Stevehose worked on this a few years ago. I have wanted to do this project too, just have not gotten to it.

Stevehose

Post in thread 'Is there a way to bypass the ignition key?'

Ok I've figured out the wiring for a "black box" to plug into the diagnostic port to start and drive the car in the event of an ignition switch failure (no key needed other than to unlock the steering wheel), this would have come in handy for @DWMBMW in Hilton head at LOTA instead of us tearing into his steering column in the parking lot. That scenario put doing this into my head ever since and the broken/failing switch topic seems to come up here pretty often. This weekend I will be assembling a small box with fuse, dash lights/ignition coil lighted power switch (with nuclear bomb...
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boonies said:
@Stevehose worked on this a few years ago. I have wanted to do this project too, just have not gotten to it.

Stevehose

Post in thread 'Is there a way to bypass the ignition key?'

Ok I've figured out the wiring for a "black box" to plug into the diagnostic port to start and drive the car in the event of an ignition switch failure (no key needed other than to unlock the steering wheel), this would have come in handy for @DWMBMW in Hilton head at LOTA instead of us tearing into his steering column in the parking lot. That scenario put doing this into my head ever since and the broken/failing switch topic seems to come up here pretty often. This weekend I will be assembling a small box with fuse, dash lights/ignition coil lighted power switch (with nuclear bomb...
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Nice, hadn't seen that thread when I had searched for "program tester". I'm not sure that I saw the part number listed there but I suppose findable. Sounds like the short answer though is "keep the program tester port around", which is the information I needed.
 
D Calkins said:
I didn't see where Steve posted the part numbers for the 9 pin and 6 pin plugs from Mouser.
Click to expand...
Hadn't seen it either. @Stevehose something you'd be willing to post? While I understand the concern of someone using this info to create an "E9 hot-wiring device", I think that someone with foresight enough to search an E9 forum for part numbers to build a device which still requires under-hood access instead of a key would probably find a far easier way to steal my vehicle. Given that if I leave it parked illegally I'm likely to find it gone by one of Seattle's roving tow truck drivers, it's clear that neither a key nor a hotwire device is necessary for someone to move my car.
 
e9Leveque said:
Hadn't seen it either. @Stevehose something you'd be willing to post? While I understand the concern of someone using this info to create an "E9 hot-wiring device", I think that someone with foresight enough to search an E9 forum for part numbers to build a device which still requires under-hood access instead of a key would probably find a far easier way to steal my vehicle. Given that if I leave it parked illegally I'm likely to find it gone by one of Seattle's roving tow truck drivers, it's clear that neither a key nor a hotwire device is necessary for someone to move my car.
Click to expand...
Thread drift --

When I worked in DC, I would occassionally look out the window and see tow trucks dropping off cars on the streets nearby my office. I had not previously known this, but when the President goes out to dinner, cars parked near the restaurant he has chosen are often towed away and dropped several blocks away. And if you don't find your car, DC proceeds to ticket the vehicle for parking infractions. When Clinton was President, there was a story about a couple from Ohio who had parked in Georgetown whose car got moved - they reported their car stolen, and returned home. After they amassed a huge amount of parking tickets, DC mailed them a bill and that's how they found their car.
 
I use a hidden fuel pump switch.. a thief wouldn’t get far.
I use it when I’m working on the car and I need the ignition on without the fuel pump running.

I need to install an emergency shut off!
 
restart said:
I use a hidden fuel pump switch.. a thief wouldn’t get far.
I use it when I’m working on the car and I need the ignition on without the fuel pump running.

I need to install an emergency shut off!
Click to expand...
I too have a fuel pump switch. Trouble is, if my car has been run recently, it will start and run half a block on the fuel in the bowls.
 
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