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"Goodyear Eagles slicks measuring 23.5×10.5 up front and 25.0×13.0 at the rear" large, what were the original spec tires, anyone?

Timing is everything, yes, but compression is good too.

That will be some spendy rust work but with assistance of this list, parts can be sourced. I had a 2800 CS, years ago, that was in rather worse shape. I sold it.

That's a nice euro 3.0 CSi sold a a price that somewhat surprises me. It has the D-jet motor and bumpers with all the structural rigidity of a gigolo's mustache (that the US market got through 1973). '74 and '75 USA models got the larger stronger bumpers with a shock absorber in them...

There are a goodly number of shops that sell Billies, but I don't think you're going to get off easy with any of them. Then again, Billies have a lifetime warranty, so if you can handle installation yourself, you might feel somewhat protected if you buy used, given someone locally to rebuild...

Pic? Curious to know, what feature(s) visibly determine a '75? I saw one once with the front struts literally bulging up through the hood. The owner (I was told) was an exotic dancer who paid for the bodywork, $20 at a time.

We had a '73 Bavaria with what appeared to be a gold flake in the Chamonix paint. It looked great IMHO but it got three separate parking lot dents requiring repainting. Only one of those jobs matched the color perfectly. Sadly (or perhaps not unexpectedly) the one guy retired several years...

I'll add that you probably shouldn't disassemble the odometer number wheels from the axle they ride on UNLESS you have the last one slipping, which results in the odometer not adding up the miles. But if you do, you can reset the mileage to read all zeroes - something which only the original...

The door trim wood bits aren't difficult to remove. Just for sh*ts and grins I made a replacement of koa wood, and it's very hard to tell the difference. But if you do one, you'd be advised to do the other b/c 1) it's no that much additional work, and 2) you'll have the two matching each...

Local Craigslist post has a set of manifolds FS, see at https://honolulu.craigslist.org/oah/pts/d/honolulu-bmw-30-cs-weber-manifolds/7629555913.html No affiliation, not acquainted with seller. Be nice to me and I can go (seller is not far from me) look them over, but the pics are pretty...

That has to be the slickest repair I've seen on shock towers. D*mn fine welding. Assuming you did both sides, how was it done so that the car rides evenly right to left?

+1 on damping the vacuum signal, this can be done several ways, the simplest being to squeeze down on the vacuum tubes, or put in restriction device(s). The sizes of the restrictions won't matter unless one is grossly different than another. Another "old style" way is to rig some clear...

Seals are frequently standard sizes, can you get the old one out and see if a shop can match it? Weber 32/36 carb bodies wear oblong where the steel throttle shaft rides in the pot metal carb body casting. I've read, somewhere long ago, that it's possible for a machine shop to drill out the...

Fast idle is controlled by an arc-shaped bit in the choke housing that has steps in it. The fast idle screw sits on the steps, sets how much the choke plates stay open. The fast idle screw is only accessible through a port in the choke housing. Getting it all right is enough to make you want...

Yeah, I've heard that early FJs had water issues and needed wheel cylinder rebuilds relatively often - a cousin had one. Aeration in your race car - seems odd. Aeration should only happen if there was air in the system to be mixed with, and the only free surface (air/fluid interface) would...

Castrol DOT 4 GT LMA, sold in pint and quart plastic cone top containers, is pretty much the standard. there are others, of course, but DOT 4 is the stuff, not DOT 3, NOT silicone unless you completely clean out the system- not for simply bleeding.

Pickle fork and BFH, or two hammers on opposing sides when the joint is exposed. Old joints seem to have a certain (HIGH) minimum level of force required, below which one can hammer away all day with zero progress. I grease the tapered stud prior to reassembly, on the repeatedly proven...

If you replace crumbling "masonite" or cardboard or whatever-it-is door panels with something insensitive to moisture....

Merely punching is only part of the chore. All the interior coolant passages are probably similarly gunked up. If your engine doesn't run hot, great. There are coolant flush products sold at your FLAP. Usually you pour in a pint of the stuff, run several weeks, then drain, rinse thoroughly...

My first "large" bimmer was a '69 2500a sedan... you WANT power steering. Steering effort did decrease a good deal when I got new front tires.