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My semi educated guess is talbots. Still available. Try AADvark, They still distribute them in the US as well as the Vs,

Yes, is the last answer to your question. There were two versions listed in the repair manual. Early- 23.81 mm Late- 22.20 mm

Follow this link http://www.e9coupe.com/tech/message066.html

The answer to the second question is a brush holder from an circa 86 VW GTI. Search for heater repair since a member has done it with photos.

NM/NA http://tucson.craigslist.org/cto/5518595896.html

Iirc fuse cover limiter fastener. Holds a small black plastic wheel that screws on a small metal bracket and guides the wire limiter so the door doesn't go too far open.

master cylinder clearance at the actuating rod or lack thereof preventing the piston retracting. .5 mm IIRC. Gets worse as things heat up and expands. Check the pedal dimensions in the work book. Loose or weak return spring or the bush is worn, got moved a bit, and is now hanging up...

Pls. confirm fitment from another German car- Mercedes 123 492 06 14 Ansa recently remade these IIRC.

A/C http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-3-0-CSI-E9-323i-E21-525i-E12-TEMPERATURE-SWITCH-A-C-NEW-/121901999999?fits=Make%3ABMW&hash=item1c61ece77f:g:txMAAOSwpRRWoQdp&vxp=mtr $49 plus ship. First make sure the end connector on the sw hasn't come loose when placed back. Reported problem sometimes...

Try another German car http://autobodyclips.com/images/auveco/10322A.gif VW part- readily available. I suggest the type with seal. ( Small, thin rubber washer like BMW uses now.) I used the VW part number on Ebay and tons came up- 15-30 for $5-6 bucks.

Check your spark. You're describing a typical issue if the carbs idle and then fall flat. That and the high HG ( vacuum. Don't run at highest- back down a little to 18-20) Start over with the timing. Verify that the weights in the distributer spring back, oiled, etc.

The catch IIRC corresponds with the latch.... knob or button, late or early.

Free spare throttle section I have, if that will fix it.

Yes, if still remaining. http://www.e9-driven.com/Public/Library/BMW-E9-Manual/pages/en/61314460.html

I suggest a careful examination of the accelerator bar, position, and bushings/ spacers. There are reference measurements in the repair manual.

Progressive carbs..... vs 38s. I suggest doing the sync conversion kit. That's the main difference and reason to change until recently when somebody figured it out. Cheap and you're going to notice it down low. But gas mileage is going down. The vacuum secondary's open when they open, not...

Conventional wisdom based on the practicality that the emission devices are no longer on your car is: 1. Distributer advance- from front carb, port closest to valve cover. Distributer retard is not used. 2. The rest are all capped to include the egr ports on the manifold. Check this to...

Pinon #3 If you're feeling lucky.... try reindexing the drive shaft 180 degrees at the rear. Sometimes that has done it for some. Did you check the driveshaft retaining nut at the slip joint? Mine was loose. i.e did you loose the preload? HG- why you working so hard? The plugs are fine-...

Pinion part 2 I would disconnect the rear of the shaft and measure the angle at rest. You're going to have to use a protractor ( Sears, cheap) and then get a reference. Let's say-3, then shim the tranny to no more that -2 degrees to get to what most vehicles are designed with. I don't see...

Pinion angles are important. I assume BMW set up the geometry for a negative 3 to 5 degrees as most do. It sounds like you adjusted ( shimmed) the tranny mount to 0 degrees. What happens is that the rear when it loads up changes its angle or geometry. The second thing to keep in mind is...