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No. Loosening the cap will drain the oil , not fix the tensioner. The caveate is that if your were dry starting again- pour oil down the upper cover side and fill up that resevoir- takes about a 1/4 quart. The tensioner is submerged. That's why oil pours out. Stick a piece of plastic under that...

My money is on a dry start tensioner. Makes a helluva racket for a little bit. Should go away and not be back like Arnold.

Add a ground to the case.

Rev to 3k, then check at idle.

http://e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6184&page=2

My comment on the head surface finish is based on knowing there is a specification for how smooth it needs to be by the manufacturer or BMW. There is a meter that measures the surface irregularities after skimming. I'm so used to Sunnen and a diamond cutter, I don't give it much thought except...

The head was skimmed. Did the machinist check the finish to confirm it met those standards? In other words an aluminum head requires a very fine finish. This normaly is a bigger issue on a boosted engine using cometic or solid type gaskets. I can't tell by your picture. I know studs penetrate...

If the lean condition is indicated by the plugs, first check for restrictions in the fuel, dirt, rust, etc. Check your fuel pressure regulator to see if it's the pump or regulator. ( Slowly dieing perhaps.) If the pump is suspect, amp it, clean the connections, etc.

It's running lean after warm up. Pull the plugs and check the color.

Can you explain where .....as in number one? No, don't start it. Drain it.

Flip the gasket. The bottom should be flush. Use a bit of rtv sealant along the corner at the head gasket. That's what leaks. The gasket should protrude up at the top of the head, then carefully cut flush so the valve cover gasket is flush. I could see trimming a smidge if something was...

fyi There are two. One for pointless or electronic ignition-BMW 12-14-1-360-676. And one with points- the last three digits changed to 362. W&N has them.

Old trick- radiator rubber mounts are U shaped. Cut the leg off the front and shift the radiator forward. Slip the piece on the back side.

Fins or no fins on the bottom of the case? OD came in different varities depending upon year. For an E9, the one you have pictured would not be a first choice.( If indeed it is a 5 speed) Seperate or integral bell housing- your picture says integral. Two choices. Fins- fins are good. They...

Visor restoration glue Yes, Yes. Instant type. Use the primer (Hepthane based) or clean it with your favorite brand just to help create a better bond. A drop at a time so you can keep the seam tight. Goes faster than you think. Locktite or Wonderbond brand here. Same procedure for very...

http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,1144450,page=1

Looks like made in Spain (next best thing to Germany. DQ?) before production went to Brazil. NLA for as long as the German ones. Tricky German sticker just to throw you off though. The Blues were made/ available without resistors for a period of time. You have to measure the resistance. A...

I agree Chris it's all a bit confusing. Red, Blue, Black, etc. Don't use a new blue coil. It puts out less and it's not original if that matters. But what respectible sports car hasn't been tuned up? As far as coil voltage goes, it matters most at idle. Steve- the german ones still exisit...

Yep unless you've got the real german blue or an original black. Yes, you can measure coils for voltage and resistance and should just to record what you've got as a baseline. It's better than waiting for it to stop you cold or if that mystery running problem rears it's head.

No DQ. RP- the original Blue coil was of German Manufacture. You'll have to source that one as it's NLA and would be NOS. Unfortunately Bosch outsourced at some time and the end result was less than expected. YGM. What coil is used is dependent on your setup of either points, oem transistor...