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"there is no way to have the stems worn into the eccentrics" yes there is, the eccentrics do get worn, I had to replace them on two of my 2002s. Worn eccentrics make valve adjustment very difficult to get right. I had a lot of practice before I rotated the eccentric around to where I could...

I have what might be a full set of quite used chrome trims but shipping from Honolulu.... ah well.

Okay, tip from long ago... Coupe bodies get some stiffening from the windshield (easy to imagine). If the wshield is out and the car improperly supported, or was tweaked through stress, age or accident, removing the wshield releases those stresses and the body sags, making refitting difficult...

Is it me, the lighting, or has the car THREE shades of silver and gray? Me likey!

With, for the USA anyway, the later style aluminium ('73 and '74) intake tubes. Only the '72 USA had the plastic tubes, I've had both.

Re the wiper motor, if you remove it and bench test it you'll find out whether any problem might lie with the motor, or the "transmission" which has something like a 47:1 reduction ratio. I've had 'em apart, it's not hard if you are cleaning, regreasing and reinstalling. Odd failure: wife's...

I've used a 1/2" ratchet and whatever large socket (30? 36 mm?) fits the crank nut. It's a close fit; beware slipping and running something into the radiator. Will really un-make your day. Fun fact: the nut on the front of the crankshaft that holds the pulley on is called the "Jesus nut" b/c...

When I swapped in the 5-speed that replaced the 4-speed that replaced the auto trans, I found I'd used a 2002 part from my stash. Different: works.

mmm I thought production ceased in 1975?

I drove a new BMWNA 1995 540i six-speed in Colorado at 115 in fourth gear thinking... "there are two more gears, what in this world do I need those for?" Well I might have, can't commit to actually saying such a thing, must have been delirious, bamboozled, wack outa ma haed, er sumpin'. Don't...

I have 2250457, also Baikal but needs a bit of a repaint

Hmmm this hack armchair quarterback would made the "break" between the colors at the belt line, I think it would look a little more balanced. Saw Art's car in Breckenridge in '85 but though we had corresponded a bit via his (then) newsletter, did not have the opportunity to speak with him...

I'd expect a "competent" exhaust shop could put something together from this 'n that, which would look very much like what it ought. Sound level selectable by owner. Mufflers aren't rocket science... cut your old holey one open and have the shop replicate it.

A long time ago I got a bunch of "rubber" seals for ball joints, etc in two sizes from a place in TX whose name I don't immediately remember. They were a fairly popular parts source then.... I eventually used all I had among various 2002s, 533i, 635CSI, 3.0CS and who recalls what else. So they...

when my 2002 wouldn't go into reverse, I took off the output flange, then the rearmost casting. In that casting is a piston that needs to slide up and down in its groove without hanging up. I used crocus cloth to smooth both the piston and bore, reassembled, and WALLAH I got reverse back. Sold...

Aren't they simply crimped on, suggesting you and your favorite pair of pliers, plus a rag for cushioning, could squeeze them back on? I have a set of gutter trims I got from a salvage CS, but of course they are pre-bent and shipping from Hawaii would be a chore.

Shock Treatment: you and your BFH (big friendly hammer) need to evenly distribute the force of the blow around the perimeter of the piston to evenly transmit that energy to the ring(s). So, some sort of mandrel between hammer and piston is needed... for instance, a piece of properly sized iron...

If the theory is that fuel is boiling out of the carb (into the engine or not), check the temp of the carb(s) under various circumstances. If you don't want dirty hands, there are any number of infrared non-contact "guns" that will read temps. Alternatively you can get a contact thermocouple...

Back in the day, aircooled VWs used to shed a lot of alu powder with every 3,000-mile oil change, yet they ran and ran and ran. Hope yours does (the latter parts) the same!

By all means fix it first unless your daughter either has amazing skills, or anticipates a checkbook restoration. Post college, I dropped $5k, found and sent my daughter a nice clean Honda CRV with a rebuilt top end, whose motor became unreliable (not the top end) and triggered the CEL...