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If you do need to replace your alternator, an alternator out of an 80's era BMW will bolt in, eliminate the need for an external regulator and provide cleaner output. I have one in my coupe. Another alternative is an expensive Delco alternator as discussed in this thread...

The failure of those two parts is a pretty common on e9's. The hood torsion bar assembly can break or wear out in several ways. Fatigue where the arms weld to the tube is common. Can you have the arm re-welded back on (not easy, as the tubes have thin walls)? New tube-arm-torsion bar...

tdgray: - Are you saying that your car now has sidedraft Webers, and that you don't have that linkage rod at all? - Or that it has downdraft Webers, and has a straight rod (like the one Thomas76 shows in post #2)? If the latter, that straight rod will work with your Zeniths, unless as...

You mean it's not in Moss Landing to get the M30B35 engine that Mike found for them?

Gosh, I never go more than 10 mph over the speed limit. I just stay in the left lane with my turn signals on, going 55 or so. :cool: But why do all those limos headed for Sacramento at 85 mph keep giving me the finger?

I guess these 2.5's just needed less on the road fixin' than did their 2800 and 3.0 big brothers! That dinky little toolbox just looks funny. And the screwdriver handle isn't even red! Kidding aside, it does look like a decent example. Too bad someone took a can opener to its roof back in...

You should check out https://socalvintagebmw.com/ to learn about vintage BMW events here in southern California and connect with local, like-minded people. The 2024 events don't seem to be posted yet, but mark your calendar for June 2nd.

I liked the first comment on BaT: "Still a smaller grill than the current 3 series". Would SU carburetors have been original on this car?

Those are the good adapters that position the stud at the center of the carburetor, which keeps the air cleaner in its original location. The more common JAM adapters offset it toward the rear, which can cause the air cleaner to interfere with the firewall & hood light.

So would it be 100% less annoying if you had used the whole mattress?

They do list harnesses for e9's. Here's what I found on the site referenced by craterface: 1971 BMW [2800CS] 1. Engine and Headlight Harness 1627.00 2. Ignition Switch Harness 46.00 3. Dash, Body and Taillights Harness 2617.00 It wasn't clear to me if you would need all...

Ha ha. Looking at their website, all their car-specific harnesses are for 'mericun cars. Click on "MAKE" on this site and you'll see what I mean...

OK, so I think you're saying that Polaris Neu 060 would be the correct color for Wobdog's '71 e9. And that Polaris 060 is newer than Polaris Neu 060 (which is kind of funny), as well as more silver/less grey. You are certainly right that the water-based paints available today will never match...

I think the right answer is going to be "New Polaris Met 60 For years 66-90", but am looking forward to confirmation from those more knowledgeable.

OK, OK, I've edited my post to be more specific. I wasn't suggesting that a wheel might be so corroded that it would fall apart; just that tubeless tires will leak when the bead contact area on a steel wheel gets pitted from corrosion. The alloy wheels on our e9's don't have this issue...

What site are you looking at? Longstone? The Longstone site says: RECOMMENDED TUBES Michelin 14F13 TUBE OR TUBELESS TL (Tubeless) which I interpret as "If the tire-wheel contact area of the rim is really pitted due to corrosion and you need a tube in order for it to hold air, then use...

"Garage kept"???? Maybe over the past few months, but the sun-faded RR reflector, rusted wheels and water stained paint suggest time spent outdoors. Still, at $5K, it is priced to sell.

Ever research the life of Hebert Quandt, early founder and owner of BMW? Check out https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Herbert_Quandt#:~:text=During the war Herbert Quandt,staying alive approximately 6 months. If you only buy products from companies headed by people you admire, you may find yourself...

I wouldn't call using a pressure washer on a classic car "normal". If you drive through a lot of mud puddles, then a light spritz with a hose may be necessary, but with the way most classic cars get used, the procedures Stevehose discusses in post #3 are more typical.

You have gotten good advice in this thread. It's is probably one of two things: a stuck float/valve or a bad fuel line (split line or leaking connection) , but more investigation will be needed at your end to pinpoint the source of the leak; people who have never laid hands on your car can't...