Search results

Hmm. If that's what Pflyer meant, then steel wooling his nipple makes a little more sense. Squeezing down the female connector on the wire to tighten the connection might help as well.

OK, glad to hear that you are making progress and don't have to crawl behind the dash to change the bulb. However, steel wooling the contacts isn't going to do anything; that'll just make the light shine brighter. It sounds like your sensor is permanently showing low oil pressure (e.g...

... which makes it easy to determine whether the problem is the bulb or the sender: just pull the connector off the sender while the ignition is on and touch it to ground while a helper monitors the bulb. If it glows, the bulb is good and sender bad. If it doesn't glow, the bulb (or socket, or...

Pop rivets work well for this application. It's kind of slick the way the rubber will re-attach itself to the metal strip when you manipulate it as Brieti describes. But doing the rear bumper is a little tricky, since you need to start in the center and then stuff the outer ends of the rubber...

No, I wouldn't agree with that at all. As with painting a car, the expense in re-chroming is in the preparation. A smooth surface can "just" be dipped in the tank that removes the old plating and then dipped in the tanks that add the new plating. Sure, it isn't that simple - there is also...

Yes, I did run a die over the studs, as they were a little beaten up. The last thing I wanted to have happen was to have a nut jam on a stud while bolting things back together and shear off the stud!

I got some inexpensive Dremel cut-off wheels from Amazon and attacked the four inner nuts on my two, front overriders. Slicing through the nuts was a little tedious and the studs did get wounded in the process, but the rusted nuts came loose and the studs are good enough to still retain the...

I wouldn't equate over-engineering with "better" engineering. Sub-optimal is sub-optimal, whichever side of perfection you are on. In the case cited, excessively heavy connecting rods limit top RPM, put unnecessary loads on the crankshaft and (most importantly in the 21st Century) detract from...

This would be a good topic for its own thread. After turning 70 five years ago, I hadn't done much automotive work - just lost the desire to crawl under cars. But, my e9 was getting a bit shabby and I slowly began to tear into it early this summer. After awhile, I got into a rhythm, and now...

I'm not getting what takes CNC machining, CAD imaging, welding, etc. etc. to bolt E28 motor-gearboxes to E9 regulators. Kurt DiLimon wrote up a simple procedure 10 + years ago that's available at: https://sites.google.com/site/kdelimon/windowmotorconversion1 I have followed Kurt's directions...

Yes, that works on the rear rubber pieces because they are "L" shaped. I've already broken the studs on my rear pieces, and have drilled them for sheet metal screws. But the fronts are "U" shaped and the troublesome hardware is on the inner part of the "U" where it is less accessable (my nut...

Yes, that is the strategy I am going to pursue next. I have a set of small cut-off disks on order from Amazon. Will report back on how successful this approach was. Even if the cutting process mungs up the threads on the studs, it isn't as if the nuts have to retain a lot of force.

I wasn't aware of Stefan Ries, the supplier that TomHom recommended in post #6. Still, it looks like all four pieces would come to 180€ from Ries, or $197 plus shipping. I suppose that is "cheap" in today's environment, but I thought I would try for a backyard fix before going that route. If...

Page down to post #15 to see how I solved this problem. Thanks to everyone who provided ideas! --------------------------------------- My reason for going down this rabbit hole is to have my bumper overriders replated. But to do that, I need to remove the black rubber "bumpers" that cover...

See: https://www.steelerubber.com/search?q=70-3597 Price is $4.99/ft

Ah, you get the extra points! It was obvious that the outer sunvisor mounts were meant to pivot, but I could never wrestle the inner end of the sunvisor out of these brackets. And I sensed that the plastic on mine was so brittle that applying too much force would just shatter them. The...

Well, that was a lot easier than I had anticipated! Thank you.

I know that user Frankie 123 is re-making the outer pivot mounts for sunvisors. But that isn't the part that I need. Does anyone have a source for the inner clips that hold the ends of the sunvisors? These go on either side of where the interior rear view mirror mounts. See pictures below...

My car came with "sardine can" motors, but I have since converted it to e28 motors. Either way, the regulator-motor assembly will go into the door with the motor in place. Maybe the '74 motors are different somehow; admittedly, I don't have experience with them.

I'm not getting why you couldn't bolt the motor to the regulator on the bench, and then install the assembly into the door. I've done it that way many times. To get the lifting arm into the channel at the base of the window, you need to use the motor to adjust the arm to its rearmost (as I...