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I interpreted Dick's comment differently. Yes, that car was worth 110k yesterday to two, aggressive bidders who were more focused on winning the car than on fiscal sense. But that doesn't mean that the current market price for a 2000CS is now $110,000.00. As Dick was saying, it's probably...

It seems like the seller is competing in a "worst photos in an automotive ad" contest. No pictures of the whole car, of the dash, engine, trunk, ....

Well, that's a good point. Werkshop may have recommended removing the exterior panels so that the inner body could be media blasted and rust treated, and the owner may have said "nah". Ditto for disassembling, blasting and painting/powder coating the suspension. The seller does say in the BaT...

The "in process" photos posted in this car's auction (specifically #300 - 322) do not inspire confidence. They reflect the kind of work environment you might find in a small-scale shop, but not what I would expect from a BMW specialist. If I were bidding on this car, I would ask how long ago...

Well, yea, but at least they brushed some paint on the inner panels. Well, those that were visible anyways. (BaT won't let me link to photos on its site. But look at #314/372 to see what I mean).

Incorrect details include: - The door handles - Vent at the base of the C pillar - Wheels - Lack of side trim on doors and rear fender - Trunk lid is too short (not enough rear overhang)

No, none of that is normal. It sounds like your ignition circuit is always "ON", sending current to the load shedding relay (that click you hear when you connect the battery) as well as to the "L" light. ScottAndrews' theory that the hazard switch is the problem could be correct. But somehow...

And although Copart says it's an automatic, the gearshift lever and dashboard sure make it look like a three-pedal car.

When you say that the 4 slat black plastic slat grille doesn't fit the e9 very well, do you mean: - The shape of the 4 slat black plastic slat grille is different than the 5 slat, aluminum finish grille, so just won't fit or will leaves gaps. OR - Yes, it fits dimensionally, but will look...

Those schematics using two relays are to kill the starter - not the ignition (note that the thread is titled "Relay / Starter Interrupts"). To accomplish what dang had asked about would only require one, SPST relay (or a SPDT, or DPST, or whatever you have laying around). The schematic is dirt...

Hmm - that's interesting. I have three keys for my coupe, but don't see any numbers on them. I've had them since 1989 when I got the car, but they could be duplicates that a previous owner had made. One key is labeled something like "ERREBI", the other two say "SILCA" (neither say "Pembra" -...

Oh sure, I could get that smogged here in California - NOT! Have to admire the build quality: OK, with the exception of the hose clamp exhaust hangers: Needs a taller gearshift, however:

From the discussion in the BaT listing: LowMileageClassics (The Seller) This author's likes: 1,428 Good morning, unfortunately yesterday when I had the van out to do a driving video, I was involved in an accident when elderly man pulled out in front of me. @BaT has been notified. Until we deal...

If I understand your question #1 correctly, the answer is "yes". Many e3/e9 owners have exchanged their original Zenith carburetors for Weber 32/36 DGV series carburetors. The Webers will bolt onto the original BMW carburetor manifold. Note that Weber 32/36's are available in three versions...

Another benefit of the $1,400 complete-car detail: if you are going to be selling your coupe, a well detailed engine bay and interior should re-pay the incremental cost between just an exterior detail and the complete job.

A quote from the Hemmings ad: "Only approximately 450 four-speed 3.0 CS models were sold in the United States, making this a scarce specification". Only 450 manuals sold in the US over the whole 3.0CS run? I find that hard to believe. EchoNiner: I suspect that your instincts are correct...

The emergency flasher switch only plugs into its socket one way. So while I can't tell you exactly what's wrong with your flashers, a mis-plugged switch isn't the issue. Excessive resistance due to corroded contacts, either at the fuse or bulb sockets, is a typical cause. Which isn't to say...

Dan: That helps a great deal. The "L" shaped bracket seems to have gone missing on my car, so it just wasn't obvious how or where the switch mounted.

I neither have a switch nor know how/where it mounts. From this thread I understand that it is a momentary, push-button type of switch (like the one in the door jamb for the interior light), so I can substitute some universal, normally ON switch. But where does it mount? What on the glove box...

My coupe has never had a switch for the glove compartment light. The light is there, as are a couple of wires with connectors that will light the light if I jumper them. But no switch, nor any obvious place for a switch to go. I have looked through the parts diagrams on W&N and Real OEM...