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Thank you for looking at it. That was my suspicion it would not work.

This one is a veiw from the bottom of the front section.

This one is from the inside rear of the front section.

Here is one from the top with the roof open. the file is kind of big, so I will send other pictures in separate posts.

I will take some photos.

My sunroof is an original dealer (Hoffman?) order and installed by American Sunroof Corp. It is electric operated. What are the chances your deflector would fit my sunroof? I understand the install cost about half as much as the car back then. This was due them having to cut the hole...

The last time I used PayPal "non-family and friends", PayPal added the 3% for me. I almost sent too much money by adding the 3% myself. Glad I caught is before clicking send.

Thank you for sharing that. I did see it before with a search, but it is missing the front trailing link bushing and the anti-sway bar end ring torque specs. I ended up using the outer control arm bushing spec for the front trailing linking bushing because they are each end of the trailing...

I used the 33-34 ft-lbs for the outer control arm bushings and the front trialing link. That felt tight enough. I stopped before 16 ft-lbs on the anti-way bar end rings. I felt the end rings were getting squished enough at around 13 ft-lbs. I will keep an eye on them to see if I may want to...

I just replaced all of the front suspension rubber bushings and am having a difficult time finding all the torque specs. I know they are to be torqued in the "normal" loaded suspension position. I found the toque spec for the inner control rod bush at 123 to 137 ft-lbs in the Blue Book. That...

They were a little difficult to install on my 70 2800CS. I had to do a little modification, but they look great now. Well worth the effort.

I have two valet keys that don't have the totally round head. I also have the one that works on all the locks that has the full round metal head with no plastic cap. Blaine at Santa Monica Lock and Safe said the same thing about my keys when I explained what I had. He used the code stamped in...

My original keys did not have the plastic cap. They were all metal with the BMW stamp and key code. Did the early keys come without the plastic?

I still have the original leather seats in my 70 2800 CS. The seating surfaces are in poor condition and were that way when I bought it in 1980. The head rests and back side of the seats are still in good condition. I just put some sheep skins on the front seats, and I recall putting a thin...

I must have gotten lucky. I had the front aluminum trim on my 69 Fairlane Cobra reanodized after I stripped and polished it. It came out very well. I would not call it concourse because I did spend that much time polishing it, but it looks as good as the factory finish. That trim is thinner...

Just curious, why not have them reanodized after polishing. It seems there are plenty of shops around that does decorative anodize. I guess the hard part is finding a good shop that does it.

I have been out of town and would have bought it if I had seen it sooner. Happy to see it has a new home other than the landfill.

I originally used Duckhams 20W-50 because Crevier BWM recommended it. When it became hard to obtain, they recommended Valvoline 20W-50 synthetic, so I switched to it. I have used the VR-1 version too. I have used Valvoline synthetic of various viscosities in all my vehicles. My highest...

Yes, It seems the pressure sensor is at the end of the oiling system, and you are getting oil to the bearings before the oil light goes out.

I have tried cleaning contacts and better grounding without success. I think the electronic flasher is worth a try. I may even give the Philips silver base bulbs a try, if I can find them.