e9 csl brake upgrade

so, my new purcahse has now had the once over and as supected the brakes are all siezed. I see my options as either:
1. get a rebuild kit and have a garage rebuild them.
2. get new recon calipers at around stg 150 per corner, or
3. go the whole hog and upgrade to better brakes. Are there any later models whcih are a 'bolt on ' replacement (for example oin my e28, I have e34 fronts and e32 rears) ?

any thoughts or ideas anyone ?

stick with stock

The stock stoppers will already over-run the tires at stock tire sizes. There are, however, some modifications most agree are good:
Steel braided lines
Better pads
DOT 4 fluid (I prefer ATE SuperBlue)
Vented rotors all around

Some people switch to a larger master cylinder, but that is usually because they are forced to switch to a smaller booster due to a Motronic intake manifold upgrade.

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Yannick said:

Fully agree with DP

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'specially since its an "L" ... stick with totally stock. The braking system on all versions of our cars are designed for balance and you will be amAZED at how well they work when properly-sorted without cutting corners (or pissing your money away on "upgrades")
If you can find the brake hoses in teflon-lined but without the external braiding, I'd go for that, but I gotta say my road cars all have the braid-covered ones like a previous post suggested (cheaper and easier to find than those that look like stock rubber.)Have the calipers re-done by a restorer, not a rebuilder. They should look right too, eh? Its also a good time to restore the hubs by completely stripping, parkerizing the steel, installing new studs, bearings and seals) renew the master cylinder, clutch master, slave, and call Carl Nelson in CA for a new rear apportioning valve. My personal preference is ATE Blue Juice for the brake fluid. ONLY buy Zimmermann stock rotors, do not get suckered into grooves, drillings, Balo, or those gosh-aweful italian rotors. My preference for pads is Metalmasters by either Repco or PBR, they are cleaner and if someone tells you they eat rotors...tell them rotors are an relatively inexpensive safety item that is intended to be consume-able. These pads are great for all legal, spirited public roadway driving. Oh, guess I should say that all these tips are for a car that will be driven on public roads. Safety first, if you must speed or fancy yourself to be a flying Bat Stuck-type driver, set your car up for a track and only use it there.

thanks for the responses guys, i was begining to think no one loved me !!

comments noted and will see what i can find by way of braided hoses, I guess goodridge do them ?

brake problem

following on from this thread, i have now managed to get the calipers rebuilt by a specialist, have had braided hoses and new lines fitted all round, have also had the master cylinder refurbished.

My problem is that overnight the pedal develops considerable travel before the brakes bite.

if i pump the pedal it firms up immediately, and is fine again.

i have a rhd car which appears to have 2 servos. can these be refurbished ? is this likley to be my problem ?

any help apprecieated

readie said:

following on from this thread, i have now managed to get the calipers rebuilt by a specialist, have had braided hoses and new lines fitted all round, have also had the master cylinder refurbished.
My problem is that overnight the pedal develops considerable travel before the brakes bite.
if i pump the pedal it firms up immediately, and is fine again.
i have a rhd car which appears to have 2 servos. can these be refurbished ? is this likley to be my problem ?
any help apprecieated

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When you say you "had braided hoses and new lines fitted", was that a shop doing the work? If so take it BACK and discuss having them pressure bleed the system, servos are stinky culprits but can't be blamed until after you're good and sure the entire systems been properly bled. The shop should have done that, if they already have.....you may want to call Munich Legends for advice on the servos there.

Make sure the Hoses are DOT legal.

it seems he's in jolly old Blighty, so DOT legality is unlikely to be a concern.

But I dunno why dp dumps on Balo, is Zimmerman really better? My local import parts store, servicing many indie euro shops, has always supplied Balo rotors.

MC Options

x_atlas0 said:

The stock stoppers will already over-run the tires at stock tire sizes. There are, however, some modifications most agree are good:
Steel braided lines
Better pads
DOT 4 fluid (I prefer ATE SuperBlue)
Vented rotors all around

Some people switch to a larger master cylinder, but that is usually because they are forced to switch to a smaller booster due to a Motronic intake manifold upgrade.

Click to expand...

Having switched to an '89 Motronic intake with a Tii brake booster I'm feel I have lost some of the stopping power of the original. System has been bled many times by pressure and other means.

I found this post from X_atlas0 and wondered if anyone has investigated changing the MC and to what effect.

Thx

Dual Servos

I have a rhd CS and the dual servos are great when they work. With the CS and my now-departed E3, I probably went through at least six over the past 16 years - places here (Australia) resleeve the cylinder in stainless and fit new seals, but often they don't last and I had a couple replaced on warranty.

If I need to do the work again, I'd try this link: http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/category/servos/ if I have understood the advertisement correctly.

Two rhd servo diagnosis checks -

- disconnect the vacuum from both and plug it. Drive carefully and feel the brakes. Then connect each servo in turn and see if there's a significant improvement, which tells you that the servo in question is functioning.

- feel under the round air intakes under each servo and see if they are damp with leaking brake fluid - bad sign, even if the servo hasn't failed yet.

readie said:

brake problem

following on from this thread, i have now managed to get the calipers rebuilt by a specialist, have had braided hoses and new lines fitted all round, have also had the master cylinder refurbished.

My problem is that overnight the pedal develops considerable travel before the brakes bite.

if i pump the pedal it firms up immediately, and is fine again.

i have a rhd car which appears to have 2 servos. can these be refurbished ? is this likley to be my problem ?

any help apprecieated

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I appreciate this thread is old but the above describes the exact problem I’m having with my breaks. Long pedal initially and then it firms up.

Brakes have been well bled.

Did you get them sorted? Or is it the case of checking the servos now (RHD Car).

Thanks, M.

Did you switch to The SS brake lines? The original rubber lines swell so initial pressure goes into line expansion. If new, not an issue. If they are old, this may be the problem.

bavbob said:

Did you switch to The SS brake lines? The original rubber lines swell so initial pressure goes into line expansion. If new, not an issue. If they are old, this may be the problem.

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Not sure if the lines have been replaced. Something to check them definitely.

What are SS lines - steal braided lines?

Thanks Michael.

Michael Kaye said:

steal braided lines?

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Steel rather than steal

Michael Kaye said:

Not sure if the lines have been replaced. Something to check them definitely.

What are SS lines - steal braided lines?

Thanks Michael.

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Correct - braided stainless lines. They are standard rubber lines inside a stainless mesh. The mesh helps to keep the lines from bulging under pressure, and creates a firmer pedal feel. I’ve had them on most of my cars, but there are also reasons not to get them. I’ve never had an issue with mine, including in off-road applications.

Michael, attached is John Castles (E9 register BMWCCUK ) guide to the RHD E9 brakes. It may be useful to all on here. I'm sure John won't mind me putting it here.
Are you at Gaydon Sunday?
Mark

daddywad said:

Michael, attached is John Castles (E9 register BMWCCUK ) guide to the RHD E9 brakes. It may be useful to all on here. I'm sure John won't mind me putting it here.
Are you at Gaydon Sunday?
Mark

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Hi Mark. Thanks so much that’s really helpful.

Sadly I’m in Italy from Wednesday - gutted I’m going to miss the Gaydon meet but plan to go to the London Sharknose meet in September.

Thanks again, Michael

Markos said:

Correct - braided stainless lines. They are standard rubber lines inside a stainless mesh. The mesh helps to keep the lines from bulging under pressure, and creates a firmer pedal feel. I’ve had them on most of my cars, but there are also reasons not to get them. I’ve never had an issue with mine, including in off-road applications.

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Thanks Marcos.