123 Distributor anxiety

kouzina

kouzina

Member
Messages
10
Reaction score
4
Location
Sydney
Hey guys,
Could anyone please guide me venturing into the slippery slope of the 123 dizzy… do you need to run the resistor with the red coil? or which coil setup is the optimum set up?
Currently running the 123 with blue coil on triple webers … I’m getting cut out at about 3,000rpms( like it’s misfiring) any assistance would be highly appreciated
 
Cut out at 3k with triple webers often means you are running lean at transition from idle jet circuit to main jet circuit. If after getting a red coil (with no ballast) doesn't solve the issue, let us know. Your blue coil is internally resisted so that's a no-go with a 123. What year is your car?
 
Hi Steve,
thank you for your message, truly appreciate it….. my baby is a’72
Blue coil gone already ☺️…. found Bosch red coil but reading up on 123’s own red coil variant …..might buy both and see what they do,
definitely report back

Running in the engine {3.5 litre} after major overhaul ,will look into the jets as per your suggestion - you’re a legend!
 
The Bosch red coil should be fine, if you have a 72 then you don't have an ignition resistor wire therefore that doesn't have to be dealt with.
 
Sure, use this as a base, each engine is different. What model Webers are you running? You'll want to get the throttle plates to just barely cover the first progression holes (progression covers off, flashlight down the throats or from above). Next tune the idle mix screws for smoothest idle. Then manually adjust (the +- tune button) adjust the idle advance so the engine idles where you want it (I do 1000 rpm) and then program that as your base, bracketed between 550 and 1050 or 1100 rpm. I'm using 15 degrees, yours may be different. Then idle mix screws again, repeat as necessary. The goal is to eliminate off-idle hesistation with decent idle AFR (12-13 ish) while relying as little as possible on the idle speed/throttle plate screw attached to your linkage. How are you synching the carbs? I have vacuum ports on my carbs but currently am not running a MAP advance curve:

IMG_3372.PNG
 
Stevehose said:
Sure, use this as a base, each engine is different. What model Webers are you running? You'll want to get the throttle plates to just barely cover the first progression holes (progression covers off, flashlight down the throats or from above). Next tune the idle mix screws for smoothest idle. Then manually adjust (the +- tune button) adjust the idle advance so the engine idles where you want it (I do 1000 rpm) and then program that as your base, bracketed between 550 and 1050 or 1100 rpm. I'm using 15 degrees, yours may be different. Then idle mix screws again, repeat as necessary. The goal is to eliminate off-idle hesistation with decent idle AFR (12-13 ish) while relying as little as possible on the idle speed/throttle plate screw attached to your linkage. How are you synching the carbs? I have vacuum ports on my carbs but currently am not running a MAP advance curve:

View attachment 163194
Click to expand...
Very impressive! You’re a gentleman and a scholar
I have 45's
Plenty of homework with all this information :-)
I had a guy tune re-jet them as they came off a 3l, they are set at this engine now but I will follow your instructions once the new dizzy is installed….Thank you for taking them time to write all this out—-I will keep you posted once I tinker with them ….
 
jmackro said:
Right! Not only that, but if it's really a digitally-controlled distributor, then shouldn't it be a
01 10 11 ? :)
Click to expand...
Exactly, like street naming in Kauai has gone binary.
 

Attachments

  • fifthave - 1.jpeg
    fifthave - 1.jpeg
    62.8 KB · Views: 63
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top