MyFemurHurts
Well-Known Member
Hi guys!
My step fathers health has taken a turn for the worse, and I'm going to be taking some time away from work to help take care of him. While I'm sad to do this after riding the high from Monterey, it looks like it might be time to sell the Coupe to fund my time away from my job so I can help my family out.
Overview: Sahara Beige 1970 2800CS over tan leather. Car was spec'ed with leather, AC, no sunroof. Originally built with an automatic, it currently has a 5 speed manual installed. 183,xxx miles on the rolled over odometer. Car is a fantastic Coupe, and I've owned her for close to three years now. Some projects aren't completed, since I wasn't planning on ever selling it, and I'll detail those below.
Notable upgrades:
Getrag 265CR dogleg 5 speed
Rebuilt Weber 32/36 downdrafts
'83 head with manual fuel pump
Schrick 300* cam
Walloth & Nesch header back stainless steel exhaust
Nardi Wheel
Aluminum radiator, 9 blade cooling fan, E12 fan shroud, viscous fan clutch
CN Lowering springs, what looks like Bilstein HD's, adjustable rear sway bar
Alpina Replicas
Pertronix
Exterior Condition:
I'd rank it a solid 8/10, and call it a nice 10 footer. It has a few obvious flaws, but you need to get close to see some of the small issues. Brightwork has some pitting and swirls in spots. Few stress cracks in turn signal lenses. The car was repainted in OEM Sahara back in the 90's, and you can see some issues in the prep work around the passenger side C pillar where the paint deteriorated. Some bubbles on the passenger side front fender. There is a small dent on the hood, and a few dings in the kidney grill. It's a head turner at Cars and Coffee, and I was proud to show it at Legends of the Autobahn.
Interior Condition:
8/10 like the exterior. Clock works (makes the lovely fart thunk noise). Door cards in good shape. Dash wood is nice, and the door wood is mostly there with light delamination on the drivers side. All windows work. Original carpets that are in good shape across the entire car. Rear seats were reupholstered back in the 90's and present well. Sadly though, they were reupholstered in cow leather, and the color doesn't quite match the front original pig skins. Aftermarket radio with aux in wired into the glovebox. Dash top is in great shape and crack free.
Mechanical Condition:
Strong driver. Runs to redline without hesitation or surging, starts and runs when dead cold. Gearbox shifts fine, and is running Royal Purple Synchromax. Does 2-3 hour drives without issue, and aside from a dead ignition switch that I replaced, I've had no surprises with it. 183k on the block, 90k on the head, unknown on the gearbox. Clutch take up is near the top, but grabs hard and doesn't slip.
Fixes since I've had it:
Cooling system
Rear windows, and drivers side front window (passenger is the last one on the list)
Exhaust
Valve adjustment
Alignment
Removed hokey 1990's alarm out of wiring harness
Ignition switch
New battery
Media blasted and painted the air filter housing
Carb rebuild
Rust abatement in the trunk
Fuel pump
Valve cover gasket
Some suspension bushings but not all
Current Needs/Quirks:
Fenders need to be rolled after I lowered it. Rubs on hard cornering or really sharp bumps
Timing chain gasket needs to be replaced
Small coolant leak off the front Weber DGAV. Drops a little coolant on the block and you can smell it cooking off after you restart
Front carb needs a new anti diesel solenoid
Coolant temp gauge has a flicker when needle sits at 3 O'clock. A finger tap puts it back in it's normal position. Issue comes and goes, but it's verified issue with gauge; car does NOT run hot
Could stand a set of tires depending on how much you drive. I was expecting to replace them in summer 2017
Rear windows stick every now and again in full open or closed position. Need to replace the rubber stoppers that set the limits. A bump of the white gear gets them moving again with ease
AC inop. Needs a compressor and drier. I'm in NorCal so this hasn't been that big of a priority to me
Rust:
Worst I found on the car when I bought it was in the spare tire well. I wire brushed it down to bare metal, and POR15'ed it with the intent of cutting it out and welding in a W&N replacement panel. Haven't gotten around to it
Drivers side front fender has some rust in the rain channel. Oddly enough, it's coming from the top down, not the inside out like usual. I hit it with a dowel to see if it went through to the inside of the fender, and it didn't
Passenger side front fender has light surface rust in the rain channel
Underside of the fender tops looked solid when I had the springs out when I lowered it
Few bubbles on the passenger side front fender
Solid floors
Solid firewall
I had the elephant skin off the rear shock towers when I first got it (and broke them slightly as you'll see), and I didn't see any rust on the rear towers. From under the car, I didn't see any rust inside the rear towers
Didn't notice any rocker rust
As always, I recommend a PPI. SFDon has seen my car before, and helped me with the cooling system, and he's local to me. PPI at buyers expense.
Car was involved in a light fender bender back in the early 90's. It pushed the drivers side headlight bucket in slightly, and the car had the fender off to fix it. Due to the cost of removing a welded in fender against the Coupes value in the 90's, it now holds a CA Salvage title. I'm usually scared of branded titles since they're automotive herpes, but after having the car on a rack to see it, I was ok with it. That same hit today would be repaired without branding the title since the cost of the repair vs the value of the car now is not close at all.
PM for price.
My step fathers health has taken a turn for the worse, and I'm going to be taking some time away from work to help take care of him. While I'm sad to do this after riding the high from Monterey, it looks like it might be time to sell the Coupe to fund my time away from my job so I can help my family out.
Overview: Sahara Beige 1970 2800CS over tan leather. Car was spec'ed with leather, AC, no sunroof. Originally built with an automatic, it currently has a 5 speed manual installed. 183,xxx miles on the rolled over odometer. Car is a fantastic Coupe, and I've owned her for close to three years now. Some projects aren't completed, since I wasn't planning on ever selling it, and I'll detail those below.
Notable upgrades:
Getrag 265CR dogleg 5 speed
Rebuilt Weber 32/36 downdrafts
'83 head with manual fuel pump
Schrick 300* cam
Walloth & Nesch header back stainless steel exhaust
Nardi Wheel
Aluminum radiator, 9 blade cooling fan, E12 fan shroud, viscous fan clutch
CN Lowering springs, what looks like Bilstein HD's, adjustable rear sway bar
Alpina Replicas
Pertronix
Exterior Condition:
I'd rank it a solid 8/10, and call it a nice 10 footer. It has a few obvious flaws, but you need to get close to see some of the small issues. Brightwork has some pitting and swirls in spots. Few stress cracks in turn signal lenses. The car was repainted in OEM Sahara back in the 90's, and you can see some issues in the prep work around the passenger side C pillar where the paint deteriorated. Some bubbles on the passenger side front fender. There is a small dent on the hood, and a few dings in the kidney grill. It's a head turner at Cars and Coffee, and I was proud to show it at Legends of the Autobahn.
Interior Condition:
8/10 like the exterior. Clock works (makes the lovely fart thunk noise). Door cards in good shape. Dash wood is nice, and the door wood is mostly there with light delamination on the drivers side. All windows work. Original carpets that are in good shape across the entire car. Rear seats were reupholstered back in the 90's and present well. Sadly though, they were reupholstered in cow leather, and the color doesn't quite match the front original pig skins. Aftermarket radio with aux in wired into the glovebox. Dash top is in great shape and crack free.
Mechanical Condition:
Strong driver. Runs to redline without hesitation or surging, starts and runs when dead cold. Gearbox shifts fine, and is running Royal Purple Synchromax. Does 2-3 hour drives without issue, and aside from a dead ignition switch that I replaced, I've had no surprises with it. 183k on the block, 90k on the head, unknown on the gearbox. Clutch take up is near the top, but grabs hard and doesn't slip.
Fixes since I've had it:
Cooling system
Rear windows, and drivers side front window (passenger is the last one on the list)
Exhaust
Valve adjustment
Alignment
Removed hokey 1990's alarm out of wiring harness
Ignition switch
New battery
Media blasted and painted the air filter housing
Carb rebuild
Rust abatement in the trunk
Fuel pump
Valve cover gasket
Some suspension bushings but not all
Current Needs/Quirks:
Fenders need to be rolled after I lowered it. Rubs on hard cornering or really sharp bumps
Timing chain gasket needs to be replaced
Small coolant leak off the front Weber DGAV. Drops a little coolant on the block and you can smell it cooking off after you restart
Front carb needs a new anti diesel solenoid
Coolant temp gauge has a flicker when needle sits at 3 O'clock. A finger tap puts it back in it's normal position. Issue comes and goes, but it's verified issue with gauge; car does NOT run hot
Could stand a set of tires depending on how much you drive. I was expecting to replace them in summer 2017
Rear windows stick every now and again in full open or closed position. Need to replace the rubber stoppers that set the limits. A bump of the white gear gets them moving again with ease
AC inop. Needs a compressor and drier. I'm in NorCal so this hasn't been that big of a priority to me
Rust:
Worst I found on the car when I bought it was in the spare tire well. I wire brushed it down to bare metal, and POR15'ed it with the intent of cutting it out and welding in a W&N replacement panel. Haven't gotten around to it
Drivers side front fender has some rust in the rain channel. Oddly enough, it's coming from the top down, not the inside out like usual. I hit it with a dowel to see if it went through to the inside of the fender, and it didn't
Passenger side front fender has light surface rust in the rain channel
Underside of the fender tops looked solid when I had the springs out when I lowered it
Few bubbles on the passenger side front fender
Solid floors
Solid firewall
I had the elephant skin off the rear shock towers when I first got it (and broke them slightly as you'll see), and I didn't see any rust on the rear towers. From under the car, I didn't see any rust inside the rear towers
Didn't notice any rocker rust
As always, I recommend a PPI. SFDon has seen my car before, and helped me with the cooling system, and he's local to me. PPI at buyers expense.
Car was involved in a light fender bender back in the early 90's. It pushed the drivers side headlight bucket in slightly, and the car had the fender off to fix it. Due to the cost of removing a welded in fender against the Coupes value in the 90's, it now holds a CA Salvage title. I'm usually scared of branded titles since they're automotive herpes, but after having the car on a rack to see it, I was ok with it. That same hit today would be repaired without branding the title since the cost of the repair vs the value of the car now is not close at all.
PM for price.
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Best of luck with the family. Cars you can fix with money, your family-with love.
