1971 E9 starts then dies...

[ECA90049]

My E9 was running fine until one day the engine died at a red light when I came to a stop. It started right up but when I eased off on gas it did not idle, it died. Was able to get it home by keeping the engine revved when stopped. When I did a visual check of the engine I noticed a loose red wire under the forward weber carburetor. I followed the red wire back to the other carburetor and saw it was attached to what I think is the idle valve for the second carburetor. Went back to where I discovered the loose wire and saw the end of the idle valve, where the red wire I think is supposed to clip onto is broken off. The idle valve was loose and I could twist it with my hand. Is the fix as easy as unscrewing it, ordering another idle valve and screwing it in, and reattaching the red wire? Also any ideas as to where to find the idle valve for the Weber carb? And should I replace both? Thanks for any help or advice...E

 

[halboyles]

If the spade connector is broken off, you could solder it back on to get it working. I would definitely order another one just to have around. Make sure the idle solenoid cutoff valve you order is the same as the one on the carb you have.
The cutoff valve is designed to stop fuel from entering the idle circuit when the engine is turned off to prevent dieseling. If the ignition/carbs are properly tuned you shouldn't really don't need those valves. They can be replaced with normal idle jets/holders.

 

[ECA90049]

If the spade connector is broken off, you could solder it back on to get it working. I would definitely order another one just to have around. Make sure the idle solenoid cutoff valve you order is the same as the one on the carb you have.
The cutoff valve is designed to stop fuel from entering the idle circuit when the engine is turned off to prevent dieseling. If the ignition/carbs are properly tuned you shouldn't really don't need those valves. They can be replaced with normal idle jets/holders.

Thanks, will try and solder and see if that does the trick...E

 

[ECA90049]

Thanks, will try and solder and see if that does the trick...E

Tried to solder another tip on the idle valve. Took it out for a test drive. Started right up, and idled. Took it out and about a half-mile from home the fuses for RPM and gas gauge blew and the car died at the light. Either I did not get the new tip soldered on correctly or there is more to this. So I Will start looking for a new idle valve for 1971 E9 with weber carbs. If anyone has a good resource for this I'd appreciate the lead. Thanks, E

 

[halboyles]

If the original wiring for the carburetor chokes was used for the Weber idle cutoff valve that would be tied to fuse 7 which also runs the gas gauge. I'll bet the soldered connection broke off and grounded causing the blown fuse. Can you post a pic of the cutoff valve and let us know what version of the Weber downdrafts you have? I probably have a cutoff valve I could send you.

 

[ECA90049]

If the original wiring for the carburetor chokes was used for the Weber idle cutoff valve that would be tied to fuse 7 which also runs the gas gauge. I'll bet the soldered connection broke off and grounded causing the blown fuse. Can you post a pic of the cutoff valve and let us know what version of the Weber downdrafts you have? I probably have a cutoff valve I could send you.

You are spot on. Got the car home and yep, the soldered connection had fallen off. Here's a photo of the idle valve. If you have an extra idle valve I will be happy to buy it from you. Thanks, E

 

[ECA90049]

If the original wiring for the carburetor chokes was used for the Weber idle cutoff valve that would be tied to fuse 7 which also runs the gas gauge. I'll bet the soldered connection broke off and grounded causing the blown fuse. Can you post a pic of the cutoff valve and let us know what version of the Weber downdrafts you have? I probably have a cutoff valve I could send you.

Here's the carb info as well...E

 

[halboyles]

Well that's a very different solenoid! I unfortunately don't have anything like that version. I can only guess that the carb itself is some model specific DGV and probably from the 80's. I also don't see a way to substitute that part with just a jet and a cap to eliminate the solenoid altogether. If the carbs are Italian (read at least 30 years old) and haven't been rebuilt recently, it might be time to upgrade to newer carbs, side drafts, EFI, electric, pedals, ...

 

[ECA90049]

Well that's a very different solenoid! I unfortunately don't have anything like that version. I can only guess that the carb itself is some model specific DGV and probably from the 80's. I also don't see a way to substitute that part with just a jet and a cap to eliminate the solenoid altogether. If the carbs are Italian (read at least 30 years old) and haven't been rebuilt recently, it might be time to upgrade to newer carbs, side drafts, EFI, electric, pedals, ...

So if I were to upgrade carbs, what would be the most reliable carb upgrade for my E9? Thanks for your help...E

 

[eriknetherlands]

Original Zenith's are a wonder of perfection, but you do need a competent engineer (who either knows these, or is willing to read the instruction manuals to install and maintain them.

 

[JFENG]

Here's the carb info as well...E

Can we get a picture of the carb where the solenoid is fitted?

 

[JFENG]

So if I were to upgrade carbs, what would be the most reliable carb upgrade for my E9? Thanks for your help...E

I’m my limited experience, Weber 32/36 DGxx and 38/38DGxx are both very reliable. Simple to tune & maintain. Parts availability is excellent (32/36 is widely used on many classic cars and even vintage Formula Ford race cars).

Maybe Zeniths perform better, but for someone who lacks a competent shop or hands-on capability, I would pick a Weber over the original Zenith. I would, however, prefer not to have the idle solenoids because it is one more failure point.that said, my current E9 has these solenoids and they have been trouble free for 7 years.

John

 

[ECA90049]

Been searching the web (so far no luck on finding an idle valve replacement) and came across this bit of info from someone else who solved their idle jet issue this way "The 32/36 carb is old, but I cleaned it out really good, replaced the solenoid with a regular plug and size 60 jet." Don't understand exactly what they did, but does this make sense? And can it be done on my Weber 32/36 DGAV33A carb? Thanks, E

 

[JFENG]

The idle shutoff solenoid can be replaced with a regular idle jet and jet holder. Note that there are two different sizes of jet bodies and jet holders. Get the ones that match the solenoid and jet in your carb. IIRC solenoids go with the large jets

So, you can interchange the shutoff solenoid with a large size idle jet holder. But not of your carb uses the small jet and small holder.

It would be helpful to see a close up pic of the carb where the solenoid goes in, and of the end of the solenoid assembly where the jet is installed.

Here is a picture of small jet and holder and a large jet and solenoid. To give an idea of what I’m talking about.

Idle Jet Holder for Weber 32/36 DGV / DGAS / IDF, Small Size - Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies

Come check out our Idle Jet Holder for Weber 32/36 DGV / DGAS / IDF, Small Size at Pegasus Auto Racing.

www.pegasusautoracing.com

Primary Idle Jet Holder for Weber 32/36 DGAV, Large Size - Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies

Come check out our Primary Idle Jet Holder for Weber 32/36 DGAV, Large Size at Pegasus Auto Racing.

www.pegasusautoracing.com

Weber Idle Jet, 32/36 DGV / DGAV Carburetor, Small Size - Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies

The small (1/8" dia) idle jet is used on both sides of Weber 32/36 DGV carbs (except DGAV/DGEV) and all three throats of the IDA 3-barrel carburetor.

www.pegasusautoracing.com

Weber Primary Idle Jet, 32/36 DGAV Carburetor, Large Size - Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies

This jet is fitted to the primary side of the DGAV carburetor and some DGV carburetors with idle solenoid valves.

www.pegasusautoracing.com

 

[ECA90049]

Is this the photo you need to see? 1. Idle valve 2. working idle valve 3. Broken idle valve. The red wire connects to Idle Valve. Can get tighter if needed...

 

[Dan Wood]

FWIW, I have discovered that there are different idle valves. The longer valve you have has smaller diameter threads. Your carb base has 3 posts that attach the water choke where the ones that are on my carbs with shorter idle cut off only has 2. The attached pic shows the the 3rd leg for the water choke and even if that leg wasn't there, the threads on the longer valve are smaller. Not sure what the difference is except that the model number is slightly different with "32 36" and "DGAV03B".