1973 3.0 CS Cracking Leather

inmantua1

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I trailered my car down from San Jose to Las Vegas. It is my daily driver. When It arrived in LV the leather was in great shape. Since then it has started to totally crack and open up. My office has people who come and wash the car. I noticed a white residue on the seats and asked them to stop doing anything to the leather. since then (coincidence?) it has been cracking open. I have tried two different conditioners. One works really well for a while and then it opens up again. Any ideas on what issue is (maybe it is just dry weather?) and how to save the leather?
 
Check out Leatherique - its great for cleaning, conditioning, repair, and dye if needed.
 
i would say leatherique or lexol leather cleaner and conditioner.
maybe they used something on the seats that was absorbed into them, or the wrong type of cleaner??
i've seen this happen when i worked as a detailer :?
 
Leatherique #1 soaks in and removes all the crappy leather treatments used over th eyears and replaces with animal proteins etc. Leatherique #2 cleans it all off and conditions. When I got my car it had molded for years and was nasty, now it looks almost new except for a few cracks but they make a crack filler which someday I may use. No affiliation, just a happy customer.
 
+1 leatherique. Grease em up several times; it's water based so it dries. I was amazed how much softer and some of the minor issues went away.

Steve- Use a razor blade with the crack filler and let dry thoroughly ( 2-3 days). The dye will fill superficial cracks. Air brush is the best with light coats.( Harbour)

Vegas- 15% desert humidity in the afternoons is what's doing it. San Diego- 45%-85%.
 
Preserving leather interior--must avoid

1) Avoid outside parking in Nevada sunlight--sun + UV +low humidity is a killer--if covered parking is available--opt for it--next will be dash,wood, carpet and vinyl interior parts dying from sun exposure--think human being left in sunlight for hours at a time day after day.

2) An old timer--a European craftsman of 50 years of fine auto interior experience--told me that soaking the skins in mineral spirits--correction--should be MINERAL OIL--you feed the leather and it can renew to some degree the suppleness of newer hides.
 
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Leatherique

Ok. I am using lexol for now. I have mineral spirits but am a little hesitant to use it. I am ordering Leatherique and am at the site now. There does not seem to be a Leatherique 1, 2 etc... Only leatherique rejuvinator, and Prestine Clean. Does this sound right. It seems less expensive if you buy it together.
 
The use of Lexol, Leatherique, Hyde Food or other branded products will all provide good surface treatment of leather that has not been seriously neglected--but--from your description--your leather has become very dry due years of prior neglect and now extremely dry weather conditions in Las Vegas. Frankly your leather may be beyond renewal--however at best--from your description--the leather fibers are in need of deep nourishment to regain their suppleness.

That's why the 50 year auto interior artisan's recommendation of a few days of soaking the extremely dry leather with mineral SEE MY CORRECTION FOLLOWING--USE MINERAL OIL NOT MINERAL SPIRITS!!!!. My first hand experience with his recommendation is--the upper surfaces of the rear seating leather in BLUMAX were near death but were treated as he recommended 20 years ago--rear leather is still intact and original at 41+ years. The name products would likely not have accomplished that--I have used most of the branded products named for maintenance--but not renewal of dead or near dead skin--as in leather fibers.

My recommendation to you is not based on any favorite product used to maintain leather but a simple product available from a drug store. Try it and you may salvage more life out of your leather surfaces--if not--maybe seat covers will be a good temporary solution if you do not have covered parking in LV.
 
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Yes, buy the Rejuvinator and Pristine Clean together, the 32 oz bottles will be enough to soak the bejesus out of all your leather and enough for follow up treatments later.

I am not familiar with using mineral spirits per Murray's suggestion, I imagine it would clean the impurities out of leather before a conditioner treatment. I don't see how it would rehydrate your leather based on what it does to my skin after contact with it but I dunno. If you choose the conditiner route, Leatherique is the way to go.

Ok. I am using lexol for now. I have mineral spirits but am a little hesitant to use it. I am ordering Leatherique and am at the site now. There does not seem to be a Leatherique 1, 2 etc... Only leatherique rejuvinator, and Prestine Clean. Does this sound right. It seems less expensive if you buy it together.
 
only leatherique. it's the only product that actually soaks into the leather and softens it . as opposed to sit on to and shine nicely


but on a different note: i will try what blumax suggested
 
Really dry leather treatment

BIG Mistake--correction--it should be MINERAL OIL--NOT mineral spirits!!! Hope I have not mislead anyone!!
 
Leather treatment

Leatherique- yes, it's cheaper to buy a kit of sorts. It's not cheap,( neither are new seats) but it works; even on light colors- mine is light grey/ silver. It does really help to cover with plastic so it dries slowly and soaks in.

Here's some food for thought:

What ever you use, pls. try a small spot out first- under the rear seat would be my suggestion.

Gliptone-http://www.gliptone.com/retail/leathercareguide.pdf used a lot by the UK crowd. Endorsed by World Upholstery. I know two super picky Ferarri guys who use it. Never tried it myself.

Neets feet oil ( pure only; not compounds) is rendered from cows. Old timers swear by this stuff. Great on army boots. Some people mix bees wax and this together.

Mineral oil- the only caveat is that some report it can break down natural fiber stiching. ( Knife/ sword guys who restore handles and scabbards and some of the Bimmer crowd on Bimmerforum)

Lexol- yep. I thinned it out so it would flow.(soak) Mostly pure lanolin. I also use this on vinyl- lasts/ shines a long time.

Hyde food- think they're in the ditch. Used to be the standard.
 
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Porsche 61 said

Gyptone--maybe a play on words--actually spelled Gliptone--it's VG and I've been using it for several years to maintain my interior leather condition.

Since the BLUMAX is always garaged except when out and about--it isn't weather challenged as in years past. What I like about it is--it imparts a fresh leather fragrance each time it's applied--so 18 years after recovering the front seats and headrests the fresh leather smell greats you upon entering the BLUMAX. Just apply--let it sit overnight--and if a little sticky lightly buff with a terry cloth towel to give a soft shine to the surface.

Result--my leather has mellowed nicely for my taste and remains pliable in front and the original leather on the front seat backs and in the rear seating.
 
I've also seen mink oil mentioned but I have never tried it.


Leatherique- yes, it's cheaper to buy a kit of sorts. It's not cheap,( neither are new seats) but it works; even on light colors- mine is light grey/ silver. It does really help to cover with plastic so it dries slowly and soaks in.

Here's some food for thought:

What ever you use, pls. try a small spot out first- under the rear seat would be my suggestion.

Gyptone- used a lot by the UK crowd. Endorsed by World Upholstery. I know two super picky Ferarri guys who use it. Never tried it myself.

Neets feet oil ( pure only; not compounds) is rendered from cows. Old timers swear by this stuff. Great on army boots. Some people mix bees wax and this together.

Mineral oil- the only caveat is that some report it can break down natural fiber stiching. ( Knife/ sword guys who restore handles and scabbards and some of the Bimmer crowd on Bimmerforum)

Lexol- yep. I thinned it out so it would flow.(soak) Mostly pure lanolin. I also use this on vinyl- lasts/ shines a long time.

Hyde food- think they're in the ditch. Used to be the standard.
 
Leatherique v WD40

My equestrian neighbor swears by WD40 for rejuvinating old stiff leather. I can't argue with her results, which are great. I now use it on my old leather gardening gloves and it works great. But for the e9, I agree with using Leatherique. What worked for me is taking the seats out, soaking them in Leatherique, putting them in black garbage bags in the sun, and letting them "cook" in. Repeat.
 
Cracking Leather

I ordered the rejuvinator and pristine clean. I am not getting the anticipated results. Can someone verify that the brown is rejuvinator and white is pristine clean?
 
the brown thick stuff goes on first, let it soak as ling as possible - days even. Some people wrap the seats in plastic and keep them in the sun for the sauna effect. Then the white pristine clean removes the sticky stuff and is used for maintenance. Repeat if your leather is really bad.
 
Leatherique

Another thumbs up for the Leatherique treatment. Rub/need it in good with your fingers and let the seats sit in your car on a hot sunny day. Reapply a couple of times every 2 hours. Let'em sit overnight and then apply pristine clean. Takes a couple of times depending upon how dry the seats are. Just be careful not to soak the stitching seams too much.
 
having rejuvenated some e30 m3 seats that were cardboard ... it will probably take several times. be patient, do it as suggested here ... but i recommend that you then use the pristine clean before you reapply the rejuvenator. if its not hot enough yet in your locale, apply to the seats, wrap in garbage bags and put in the car with the windows rolled up and leave in the sun all day.

good luck
 
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