3.0 CSL prices on eBay

CSL?

I have seen the $25K CSL, The Little Garage also maintains my coupe. First of all, I didn't think it was a CSL, I thought it was a nice csi only. It has sat in the back lot of TLG for a long time (outside, in the rain). It was offered to me a couple of times for purchase and if I wanted I was told I could have it for a few days or more. In every case I can not recall being told it was a CSL, I certainly think had I known I would have taken him up on the offer.

As far as the condition and restoration, I thought it was nice. However, there were a few things that were not original (seats for example). I'm not an expert on CSLs, maybe someone who knows more could see some tell tale signs whether it's a genuine CSL.
 
Re: CSL?

I'm not an expert on CSLs, maybe someone who knows more could see some tell tale signs whether it's a genuine CSL.
Click to expand...

It is missing some CSL goodies (steering wheel, seats, etc.), but it has a CSL VIN......
 
Hi,

I'm the 'winner' of the 25k CSL on eBay. I bid based only on the owners description and conversations with the mechanic at the little garage.

I am convinced that it is a genuine CSL, however I am more than a litlle concerned that it's been left out in the rain for what sounds like a substantial amount of time.

Is there a relatively easy way for me to verify the lack of rust?
It is claimed to be rust-free ( as much as can be expected for an e9 ), by both the owner and the mechanic?

I will be checking out the car this weekend and want to make sure that the car meets the description, within reason of course.
 
...look at the rockers, the aluminum rocker cover can hide all sorts of surprises... they rot from the inside out....... :shock:

front fender seems and the shock towers are known rust zones too.

congrats and enjoy!

-shanon
 
Congratulations!

Good luck with your new CSL. Don't be too concerned with it being outside, I'm sure they brought it in during the winter. Obviously you haven't seen it, but I can tell you when I did last year, there was no rust on the car. And if you talked to Matt at The Little Garage and he told you something, I would believe what he said. He has a very good reputation and is a very nice BMW enthusiast.

Enjoy your ride.

John Raho
Westport, Connecticut
 
First of all, congratulations on your new acquisition. Anyone that commits to keeping these beautiful cars (and by that I mean ANY E9) deserves a pat on the back. Otherwise, "daddy, what were BMWs like when they were pretty?" may be a question heard more in the future.

There may have been no "visible rust" on the car, but anyone that says any E9 is rust free is either lying or ignoring the facts. The only E9 that doesn't have rust is one that has been stripped, dipped, painted, never driven in rain and stored inside all the time.

It may have "reasonable" rust, that is, rust that can be repaired at a cost that justifies the purchase of the car, but isn't TLG on the North East Coast somewhere? Even the ambient humidity in two summers would add significant rust to its infrastructure.
 
True TJ, But, ther is rust and the there is RUST!!!!

A little surface rust may be worth trying to stop in it's tracks, but real honset to gosh structural rust requires a lot of water in repeat applications (as in seeping pooling water in the rockers eating away at the jack posts).

My 72 has some rust blemishes in the Apillars (look inside with as flashlight), but these little rust micro pimples will take years of ambient humidity to do damage. On the other hand, my "rust free" 72, als had a small rust bubbel on the right rear rocker...That bubble turneout to involve 6 inches of inner rocker panel, and will involve cutting and patching the right rear quarter panel (this is a complicated body!).

Crusty flaky rust is what I call RUST!!!!, and if you have it, you had better have buckets of money, or a good MIG welder and some skills to use it (see Malc)....

My 2 FeO2 molecules...

S
 
I'm the 'winner' of the 25k CSL on eBay.
Click to expand...

It's a beautiful color and even if it needs a bit of work -- compared to the Inka one that just went for $63k -- you stole it. If you pass on it, let me know.
 
OK, I've finally been able to check out the $25k CSL.

The good news is that it is a CSL. At least as far I can tell. It has the alloy trunk/hood lids. The doors are steel. It has no AC/manual windows.There was no vin plate anywhere that I could see. It looks to be a European import since the ventilation controls are marked in German (Did the German cars have US style vin plates?), I guess that puts the mileage in question as it has a US speedometer...

The car is pretty much without rust. I checked out the floorpan, front shock towers, rocker panels, door bottoms, front and rear lower valences/aprons and the spare wheel well.
The floor plan has some kind of anti-rust coating and the rocker panels/front-rear valences appear to be painted in a crinkle finish anti-rust paint (The car has been repainted in the last 10 years in my estimation)
Overall, it is cosmetically pretty good. It could do with some detailing and the interior needs a little bit of work. It has non-standard power recaros in good shape that should be re-dyed.
The dash is all leather and decent. It also has 16" Alpina alloys in very good condition with unused but age-hardened tires.


The bad news is that it definitely has sat outside in the elements. It had some water in the spare tire well, as well as in some of the nooks and crannies in the engine compartment. It also has remnants of leaves/debris in the various gutters.

The car started right up and ran well, although it idles a little rough. the clutch is stiff and shifting is not very smooth although there is no grinding and no extraneous noises from the transmission once under way.

So what's the verdict, guys? I am pretty much commited to buying the car (unless I find a VIN number somewhere that points to it not being a CSL )

It's a nice car, and I think with some tlc, it could be a keeper.
 
CSL?

Hi Razi,

Was my appraisal correct? I questioned it's CSL heritage, said it sat outside, had a pretty decent restoration, but overall a pretty nice car.

However, I definitely would want to confirm that it is indeed a CSL. What do you mean you cannot find a VIN plate anywhere? Granted all CSLs and csis for that matter are European, South African or Australian, but don't they all have VINs? How about the engine it must have a VIN cast into the block (on top, aft center) and I would certainly want to know that the engine is of CSL heritage.

I would be disappointed if I bought a csi with some aluminum panels. I would demand some documentation. It's probably just my Northeast upbringing that keeps me cynical and skeptical, but I trust no one.

Especially used car salesman on Ebay no less, yeah there goes a real pillar of integrity. By the way, I've got this bridge...

Take care, John Raho
Westport, Connecticut
 
yes, your description was pretty accurate.

Looks like I found the VIN. It is stamped with a VIN number in the metal sheeting right behind the engine on the passenger side

it shows as +2275183+ which is a CSL vin number. I didn't find the serial number on the engine. I'll look again the next time I'm out there.
 
I didn't find the serial number on the engine.
Click to expand...

Oh, they didn't mention the PO upgraded it with a Subaru block :).

Sounds good, go for it and we'll share the blame if necessary.
 
Razi,
THe number in the panel you discribe is the Vin / chassis number.
There should be a plate on the LHS front inner wing, usually just behind the turret top, but these often "disappear" if there has been work done on the car

The Engine number is stamped on the block at the back on a flat area. below the cylinder head
You can usually see it from the LHS of the car. You may have to clean the area up!!

Remember you are dealing with an old car and the engine may of been changed at some time in it's life. I personally would not worry if the numbers don't match as long as it is the correct type for the car. Additionally other bits and pieces get changed and replaced over the years so it is quite rare to find a "correct" car these days.

Hope you have fun with the CSL and welcome to the group. I hope you find it useful
Cheers
Malc
 
The only E9s that were imported to North America were the non-injected models. Any proper CSi/L would have the hvac signage in German or the early, non-worded symbols.

Best way to test for a CSL's provenance is to do the drum head test. This consists of pushing your finger down on the center of the roof. A real CSL's thin gauge steel will cause it to deflect in rather horrifying fashion, like a very loose drum head.
 
Best way to test for a CSL's provenance is to do the drum head test. This consists of pushing your finger down on the center of the roof. A real CSL's thin gauge steel will cause it to deflect in rather horrifying fashion, like a very loose drum head.
Click to expand...

Gently! (one finger)
 
csl

I just bought the other CSL that was listed on ebay. Pretty heavily modified with Alpina, Dinan and other parts. Hadn't seen it yet. I'll let you all know.
 
CSL roof test

Best way to test for a CSL's provenance is to do the drum head test. This consists of pushing your finger down on the center of the roof. A real CSL's thin gauge steel will cause it to deflect in rather horrifying fashion, like a very loose drum head.
Click to expand...

1- Absolutely true for carb models
2- Less true for 2275 xxx models
3- Even less true for Series one Bats (2275 430 till the end)
4- Highly improbable for series two Bats (4355 xxx)

5- dp is definitely correct... please GENTLY...
 
Conrats Paul.
I have seen it and its a very nice example, I would love to grab a ride in it before you ship it , I am about 30 miles away.

PJ
73 csi
 
Csl

Thanks PJ,
The car is being moved to a place called the Monterey Motor Works for start up and check out before shipping. I'm not sure when it will be there. I'll let you know when that happens. I should be talking to the previous owner today. Anyway I'll keep you posted-Paul
 
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