3.0cs Carb setup suggestions

Albert

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Hey guys,

I am thinking of changing out my stock carbs been having a headache with my stock ones. was wondering if anyone can give me some suggestion or direction on what setup I can do? just want the car to drive smooth and nice.
 
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Hey guys,

I am thinking of changing out my stock carbs been having a headache with my stock ones. was wondering if anyone can give me some suggestion or direction on what setup I can do? just want the car to drive smooth and nice.

i saw you are new here, and new to the car
never think that what is in your car is actually stock, as @Stevehose prudently said

once this said, if you are the proud owner of the stock zenith inat setup you are fortunate, that is the easiest road to smooth and nice driving
and please consider that the carbs are like the family black sheep, no matter what happens they are the culprit, and that is not true, there are plenty of other things that can stay in the road between you a nd a smooth and nice driving,...

BTW, do you know how to tune that M30B30 ?...
 
Hi Albert - I had dual Weber DGAV 32/36 downdrafts on my car when I bought it, and then went to triple Weber DCOEs. This summer, I swapped the DCOEs for a set of DCOMs.

Before you determine that you need different carburetors, can you detail what is wrong with your current setup?
 
Before you determine that you need different carburetors, can you detail what is wrong with your current setup?

And, before you determine that you need different carburetors, you should evaluate whether the carbs that are presently installed can be rebuilt / re-jetted / repaired. Few new carbs work "out of the box"; they generally need adjustment and re-jetting. So just going to the Carbs Unlimited website and spending some money is unlikely to provide the results you are hoping for.
 
When I bought my Coupe back in the mid-80s the original carbs had been swapped out for the popular Weber 32/36s. Over the years I have come to better understand how they work and am satisfied these carbs and I have an "understanding" of sorts. Reliablity is very good, but I must remind myself there are many miles on them now. Have recently experienced linkage binding issues that plagued the drivability until I really got into it. But I must say, after effecting this latest little tweak, I am back to "smooth and nice", really. So, you may just need to read up, call a friend, experiment, and discover the answer may be just a few turns of the mixture screw away, or some other adjustment. As has been mentioned, a new setup will also require some time, knowledge and adjustment to get you where you want to go. Good luck! Mike
 
I'm not able to replicate DQ's carb work. You would need to narrow down your problem/issue a bit more to get the full benefit of these gents’ knowledge. However my approach, born of frustration, worked better than I thought: Car sat for quite a while when I first got it, and it ran rough. Wanted new or rebuilt carbs. Local mechanic options weren't inspiring. So, I changed fuel filter, drained fuel, and checked the lines and tank. This next part will make people howl, but I then used fuel additives, carb cleaners, and finally high-octane fuel (distributor 2 miles away with options up to racing fuel). Then I drove it. And drove it--almost as a daily driver for a week or so in a spirited fashion. Not saying my carbs are adjusted or anyone should recklessly dump 100 octane fuel into their car, but it runs pretty well now on the less exotic stuff. My idle needs adjustment and generally needs a professional DQ tuning, but it runs well enough now to drive regularly and narrow down what really needs to be addressed first on my list. And if I destroy this engine, I have a ready excuse to call our resident engine guru for a 3.5 upgrade!
 
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So in other words, an Italian tuneup on steroids!


I'm not able to replicate DQ's carb work. You would need to narrow down your problem/issue a bit more to get the full benefit of these gents’ knowledge. However my approach, born of frustration, worked better than I thought: Car sat for quite a while when I first got it, and it ran rough. Wanted new or rebuilt carbs. Local mechanic options weren't inspiring. So, I changed fuel filter, drained fuel, and checked the lines and tank. This next part will make people howl, but I then used fuel additives, carb cleaners, and finally high-octane fuel (distributor 2 miles away with options up to racing fuel). Then I drove it. And drove it--almost as a daily driver for a week or so in a spirited fashion. Not saying my carbs are adjusted or anyone should recklessly dump 100 octane fuel into their car, but it runs pretty well now on the less exotic stuff. My idle needs adjustment and generally needs a professional DQ tuning, but it runs well enough now to drive regularly and narrow down what really needs to be addressed first on my list. And if I destroy this engine, I have a ready excuse to call our resident engine guru for a 3.5 upgrade!
 
Jay -- a couple of comments. First of all, once a car has been sitting for a while, seeking to ensure the fuel tank, pump, filter and lines are clean is an excellent idea. I posted here a while back on my saga with rust inside my gas tank and the rather painful process I went through to address that problem.

Having conducted your Italian tune up, I suggest you ensure your carbs are functioning together.

There are two steps to what I have called togetherness. The first is to ensure the signals you are sending to your carb are acted upon in the same way by both/all of your carbs. Since the signals come from your foot, what you need to do is evaluate the linkage from your gas pedal to your carbs. This is simply a matter of observing, by sight and feel, how various parts of the mechanism move. Look over your linkage in detail, breaking it down into component parts, making sure it appears to operates freely without binding or hitching. You don't need a book for this, just separate sections of your linkage, move them and watch/feel the movement. If you have springs attached to your linkage, detach the springs and evaluate the movement first without the springs. Be sure to consider the gas pedal as part of this process. When I got my car, the attachment on the back of the pedal where the linkage inserts was broken and would collapse when I stepped on the pedal, changing the way the linkage moved when I mashed the throttle.

The other main step in togetherness is synchronization. You need a special tool to do this. Thus, I suggest you buy a synchronizer (https://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/ste sk.htm) and learn how to sync your carbs. This process is specific to the carbs you have, but in general this process involves making small changes to component parts of your linkage to ensure that your carbs flow the same amount of air at idle. This can be tedious, but is not terribly complicated.
 
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Jay -- a couple of comments. First of all, one a car that has been sitting for a while, seeking to ensure the fuel tank, pump, filter and lines are clean is an excellent idea. I posted here a while back on my saga with rust inside my gas tank and the rather painful process I went through to address that problem.

Having conducted your Italian tune up, I suggest you ensure your carbs are functioning together.

There are two steps to what I have called togetherness. The first is to ensure the signals you are sending to your carb are acted upon in the same way by both/all of your carbs. Since the signals come from your foot, what you need to do is evaluate the linkage from your gas pedal to your carbs. This is simply a matter of observing, by sight and feel, how various parts of the mechanism move. Look over your linkage in detail, breaking it down into component parts, making sure it appears to operates freely without binding or hitching. You don't need a book for this, just separate sections of your linkage, move them and watch/feel the movement. If you have springs attached to your linkage, detach the springs and evaluate the movement first without the springs. Be sure to consider the gas pedal as part of this process. When I got my car, the attachment on the back of the pedal where the linkage inserts was broken and would collapse when I stepped on the pedal, changing the way the linkage moved when I mashed the throttle.

The other main step in togetherness is synchronization. You need a special tool to do this. Thus, I suggest you buy a synchronizer (https://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/ste sk.htm) and learn how to sync your carbs. This process is specific to the carbs you have, but in general this process involves making small changes to component parts of your linkage to ensure that your carbs flow the same amount of air at idle. This can be tedious, but is not terribly complicated.

That's the clearest description of the basics I've read. I fully admit carbs are still largely magical wonders of complexity on top of my engine, but I'll get there.
 
And since we are accumulating basics in this thread, make sure your ignition system is functioning properly before attacking the carbs. If you can't remember the last time you changed the points, condenser and plugs, change them. Look at the condition of your distributor cap and plug wires. These parts are all cheap and easy to replace. Check your timing with a timing light.

You can avoid countless hours of headache if you address this before seeking to tune carbs.
 
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