3.0CS New Colorado Member

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jgprice

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Greetings,

I have a grey market 1976 3.0CS that I’ve had stored for the past 18 years. (VIN 4300600). I bought it in Belgium in the mid 80’s so it has a bit of rust (lower front quarter panels blistering, dissolved front inner fenders, and spare tire compartment among other spots) but it still looks decent and runs ok after sitting for that long. Before taking it out on the road, I drained the small amount of gas that was still in it and replaced it with fresh gas. I also checked all the fluids and changed the diff oil with LiquiMoly 85/90 Mineral Oil. I’m planned on changing the transmission oil as well, but when I removed the fill plug, about 300 ml drained from the fill plug hole and it looked and smelled good. By that, I mean it looked clean like it was just changed and had mineral oil gear lube odor. I had the car level front to back and side to side. (Checked with a level on the door sill and on the sheet metal piece above the firewall.) I also plan on changing the oil, antifreeze and brake fluid, but may drive it a bit before I do. All these were freshly changed before putting it into storage around 2006.

I have a few questions for the group on how they recommend I proceed.

1) in draining the diff (not LSD), I removed the fill plug and heated the diff by placing an incandescent light with a reflector under the diff for ~60 minutes. This got the diff fairly warm to the touch, but not so hot that I couldn’t keep my hand on it. One consequence of doing this was that the diff oil expanded and a small amount drained out the fill plug and onto my light. No disaster, but a bit of a mess. I drained the rest of it out the bottom plug and it looked pretty dark. I refilled it with 1.5L of the oil mentioned above. With the recommended 1.5L, the oil level appears to be 1/4” below the fill plug.
Q1: does that sound correct or should it be level with the bottom of the fill plug when level?

2) The transmission oil appears new, but it also appears it was overfilled. I suspect the last mechanic who serviced it either just filled it to the fill plug and screwed the plug back in while it was draining or had the passenger side up when filling it and put the plug back in before leveling it. The current amount in the transmission is to the bottom of the fill plug.
Q2: would the group recommend draining the transmission and measure exactly 1.1L back in or is the bottom of the fill plug close enough? The car is completely original and has a 4 speed manual. Although it was sold as a 1976, a previous BMW mechanic told me it was built in 1975.

3) Does anyone know of a good vintage BMW mechanic in southern Colorado?

Thanks in advance for any advice.
Regards, John Price
 

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Hello John and Welcome to the madness. Both your questions are answered in the autobook, which I have used often and highly recommend. In both cases, fluid should be filled to the bottom of the fill plug opening.

I would consider brake fluid to be the most important fluid to change on a car that has been sitting for a long time. I don't like to have brake fluid that is more than two years old in my car, primarily because brake fluid is hygroscopic (meaning it attracts and retains moisture).
 
Ohmess said:
Hello John and Welcome to the madness. Both your questions are answered in the autobook, which I have used often and highly recommend. In both cases, fluid should be filled to the bottom of the fill plug opening.

I would consider brake fluid to be the most important fluid to change on a car that has been sitting for a long time. I don't like to have brake fluid that is more than two years old in my car, primarily because brake fluid is hygroscopic (meaning it attracts and retains moisture).
Click to expand...
Thanks for the prompt response. Regarding brake fluid, is something like o’reilly synthetic DOT3 fluid sufficient (I have a 32oz unopened bottle of it) or should I use a specific brand or type?
 
Welcome John!

Agree with @Ohmess, brake fluid is important. After sitting for so long you may also want to replace the rubber brake hoses. They swell internally and will allow you to apply pressure, but may not release.

The Autobook manual is available here

Published Sources

e9coupe.com e9coupe.com
 
Both the diff and tranny are filled until some drips out of the side hole. Easy to replace both and there is a margin for error. For tranny I use a 50/50 mix of redline MTL and 90w gear oil that is safe for bronze synchros (GL4?). DOT3 brake fluid is fine. PS fluid is normal Mercon/Dextron. I use blue BMW coolant but any one for aluminum will work.
 
first of all - WELCOME

highly recommend what @Ohmess and @boonies have suggested ... no matter what, you gotta know that you're gonna stop once you get moving.
 
Last edited:
Ohmess said:
Hello John and Welcome to the madness. Both your questions are answered in the autobook, which I have used often and highly recommend. In both cases, fluid should be filled to the bottom of the fill plug opening.

I would consider brake fluid to be the most important fluid to change on a car that has been sitting for a long time. I don't like to have brake fluid that is more than two years old in my car, primarily because brake fluid is hygroscopic (meaning it attracts and retains moisture).
Click to expand...
Thanks for the prompt response. Regarding brake fluid, is something like o’reilly synthetic DOT3 fluid sufficient (have a 32oz unopened bottle of it) or should I use a specific brand or type?
boonies said:
Welcome John!

Agree with @Ohmess, brake fluid is important. After sitting for so long you may also want to replace the rubber brake hoses. They swell internally and will allow you to apply pressure, but may not release.

The Autobook manual is available here

Published Sources

e9coupe.com e9coupe.com
Click to expand...
I replaced all the rubber brake/clutch lines and master cylinder with stainless steel lines and a new old stock master cylinder in 2005. The brakes were quite touchy compared to the rubber ones. I replaced the master cylinder because it leaked into the power brake booster and wouldn’t release well in stop&go traffic.
 
Yes, I forgot to post the autobooks link in my reply.

Stainless lines should not suffer the "deteriorate from the inside" problem many of us have encountered with old rubber lines. As Steve notes, DOT3 is fine.
 
Where are you located, several good mechanics in the area, I am in Farmington with quite a few parts if needed
 
I’m in Pueblo West, CO. I haven’t found a shop that seems to cater to older BMWs in the area. I’m looking for a shop within a 60 mile radius of Pueblo that has a good reputation for expertise and integrity.
 
jgprice said:
Greetings,

I have a grey market 1976 3.0CS that I’ve had stored for the past 18 years. (VIN 4300600). I bought it in Belgium in the mid 80’s so it has a bit of rust (lower front quarter panels blistering, dissolved front inner fenders, and spare tire compartment among other spots) but it still looks decent and runs ok after sitting for that long. Before taking it out on the road, I drained the small amount of gas that was still in it and replaced it with fresh gas. I also checked all the fluids and changed the diff oil with LiquiMoly 85/90 Mineral Oil. I’m planned on changing the transmission oil as well, but when I removed the fill plug, about 300 ml drained from the fill plug hole and it looked and smelled good. By that, I mean it looked clean like it was just changed and had mineral oil gear lube odor. I had the car level front to back and side to side. (Checked with a level on the door sill and on the sheet metal piece above the firewall.) I also plan on changing the oil, antifreeze and brake fluid, but may drive it a bit before I do. All these were freshly changed before putting it into storage around 2006.

I have a few questions for the group on how they recommend I proceed.

1) in draining the diff (not LSD), I removed the fill plug and heated the diff by placing an incandescent light with a reflector under the diff for ~60 minutes. This got the diff fairly warm to the touch, but not so hot that I couldn’t keep my hand on it. One consequence of doing this was that the diff oil expanded and a small amount drained out the fill plug and onto my light. No disaster, but a bit of a mess. I drained the rest of it out the bottom plug and it looked pretty dark. I refilled it with 1.5L of the oil mentioned above. With the recommended 1.5L, the oil level appears to be 1/4” below the fill plug.
Q1: does that sound correct or should it be level with the bottom of the fill plug when level?

2) The transmission oil appears new, but it also appears it was overfilled. I suspect the last mechanic who serviced it either just filled it to the fill plug and screwed the plug back in while it was draining or had the passenger side up when filling it and put the plug back in before leveling it. The current amount in the transmission is to the bottom of the fill plug.
Q2: would the group recommend draining the transmission and measure exactly 1.1L back in or is the bottom of the fill plug close enough? The car is completely original and has a 4 speed manual. Although it was sold as a 1976, a previous BMW mechanic told me it was built in 1975.

3) Does anyone know of a good vintage BMW mechanic in southern Colorado?

Thanks in advance for any advice.
Regards, John Price
Click to expand...


I also plan on changing the oil, antifreeze and brake fluid, but may drive it a bit before I do. All these were freshly changed before putting it into storage around 2006.

I have a few questions for the group on how they recommend I proceed. ANSWERS IN CAPS

1) in draining the diff (not LSD), I removed the fill plug and heated the diff by placing an incandescent light with a reflector under the diff for ~60 minutes. This got the diff fairly warm to the touch, but not so hot that I couldn’t keep my hand on it. One consequence of doing this was that the diff oil expanded and a small amount drained out the fill plug and onto my light. No disaster, but a bit of a mess. I drained the rest of it out the bottom plug and it looked pretty dark. I refilled it with 1.5L of the oil mentioned above. With the recommended 1.5L, the oil level appears to be 1/4” below the fill plug.
Q1: does that sound correct or should it be level with the bottom of the fill plug when level? THERE IS NO BETTER WAY THAN CHANGE WARM FLUIDS, SO I WOULD SET THESE, DRIVE THE CAR FOR 500KM AND CHANGE THEM AGAIN;
YES YOU SHOULD LEVEL THE FLUIDS WITH THE FILLING HOLE

2) The transmission oil appears new, but it also appears it was overfilled. I suspect the last mechanic who serviced it either just filled it to the fill plug and screwed the plug back in while it was draining or had the passenger side up when filling it and put the plug back in before leveling it. The current amount in the transmission is to the bottom of the fill plug.
Q2: would the group recommend draining the transmission and measure exactly 1.1L back in or is the bottom of the fill plug close enough? The car is completely original and has a 4 speed manual. Although it was sold as a 1976, a previous BMW mechanic told me it was built in 1975.; LEVEL WITH THE FILLING HOLE


SOME IDEAS:

if the car was stopped for long time, it is sound to change all fluids, and filters
but sometimes the deposits that have been created may need some driving to get loose
so it is advisable to use fluids for 500km and then drain and put new fluids again
it is worth the expense

brake fluid is DOT4,

coolant, remember the low engine block plug (there is still 4 liters in there)

steering fluid and filter

engine and filter

gear box

differential
 
jgprice said:
I’m in Pueblo West, CO. I haven’t found a shop that seems to cater to older BMWs in the area. I’m looking for a shop within a 60 mile radius of Pueblo that has a good reputation for expertise and integrity.
Click to expand...


more concrete than autobooks you might find this thread:

Lan-Engine M30B30 Maintenance thread. Periods, products, processes,...tips and FAQs

It might be useful to collect in one thread as much details as possible about this. i feel that every year or every two or three, there are questions that you recall that you already asked and got the answer, but here they are again, and...” BTW how many liters of engine oil, or what was the...
e9coupe.com e9coupe.com
 
i know there have been some owners in Colorado Springs ... presumably somebody there should know something about working on our cars
 
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