3.5 Conversion

[WALTER]

Gents,

I just got this video from the guys at Dynotech (Oceanside, CA) who are working on my 3.5L/Auto to 5spd conversion. Engine is from a 1989 735i (tranny is a 265 OD Getrag unit); intake is from an S38 (note Paul Burke adapter plates in video); Paul Burke custom ground cam; ceramic coated headers; and hydroboost from 80's era 5 series too! Wasted spark and megasquirt to be installed this week.

Eventually, I will ditch the US bumpers to go bumperless up front w/ Alpina (replica air dam) and CSL fiberglass bumper in the rear. Can't wait for it all to come together; I'll keep you posted.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vMNelcKvDLQ

take care,

Walt

 

[decoupe]

Walter:

Very ITB set up - what injectors are you using? How about fuel supply/pressure regulator/fuel pump? I assume the dizzy is gone with wasted spark/MSll - did you source plug for the hole from o2again.com? The hydroboost is to deal with clearance issues with the brake booster?

Interesting how many ways the m30 and all of it's offspring can be combined into something new.

Doug

 

[WALTER]

Doug,

I'll have to get the information from Todd and Jerry at Dynotech WRT the fuel supply/pressure regulator/fuel pump, I'm embarrassed to say I don't know off hand. They will be using the stock injectors as far as I am aware. The dizzy will be gone and they have a custom plate to cover the hole. As you surmised, the hydroboost is primarily there for clearance issues; however, I probably would have gone that route anyway to declutter the engine bay.

My goal with this engine build was more power and reliability from the larger displacement engine and fuel injection (was carb'd) but also a more responsive throttle and cleaner engine bay. I have another coupe (will be for sale soon) that has the 3.5 FI motronic treatment which is a great setup, but I wanted to make this coupe a little livelier. I've always like the look of an S38 in the coupe, but the initial costs ($3-5K for motor; $5-10K for rebuild; $5-10K install) forced me to go in a different direction. So, I decided to marry an M30 block to the S38 ITBs and intake plenum as a compromise. The end result, I hope will not look too funky and the engine bay should be real tidy with the WS, hydroboost, and battery relocated.

Walter

 

[x_atlas0]

Are you keeping the internal plenum volume adjuster of the S38 intake, or are you using a M88 intake?

 

[WALTER]

Here is a short update video. Stock S38 ITBs are installed. They powder coated over the raised stripes and lettering on the valve cover, but that will get fixed soon. You can just spot the headers (Stahl) in the 1st couple of seconds in the video. I have requested the guys at Dynotech supply more video/pics and I will also do a write up describing the build in detail when it gets put together.

Walter

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l7enL4no1a4

 

[Clubsport_CSi]

Hi Walter,

very interesting project. I am really looking forward to see some dyno figures after the engine is running. Many people here in Germany have been pretty disappointed after installing the S38 throttles on their M30 engines resulting in only poor power gains. In some cases it might have been a sloppy installation but it is also the design of the inlets which was done for the 24-valve engine but is not a perfect fit for the 12-valve engines. Anyways, I think you should definitely go for custom trumpets, length-adjusted to the character of your very own engine. There are universal airboxes available (at least here in Germany) which can easily be adapted to collect air for the open trumpets.
Which cam are you going to run in your engine?

Best,
Daniel

 

[E9coupeOZ]

Thermostat Housing Clearance?

Hi Walter,
Great project you are doing! I was thinking of doing the same installation to my E9. I am curious to know how you are getting over the thermostat housing cleaerance to s38 throttle bodies? Does the throttle position switch hit the thermostat housing?
Can you post one of your great Youtube video's of that solution or the clearance you have? I saw a picture of very rare Hartge e28 H5SP, it has an M30 with ITB's from the m88 but you can see they have a different design thermostat housing as the the pipe & hose at a differnt angle to give clearance.

The adapter plates for the manifold look well made and I would also be very interested to know your dyno results when completed.

Good luck, keep the info flowing !

Scott

 

[61porsche]

Hartage T Stat Closeup

http://r3vlimited.com/BOARD/showthread.php?p=1385223

 

[WALTER]

I had the same concerns about the thermostat housing. They are working on that now, so I'll let you know the solution they come up with (I've got my fingers crossed). I'm not really looking for major power gains, really the larger engine, auto to 5spd, and fuel injection will give me most of the power gains I am looking for. My goal with the ITBs was for the motor to be a little livelier across the power band; between the ITBs and custom ground cam I should get that.

I will look into custom trumpets/intake if the stock ones do not work. Daniel, do you know the names of the companies in Germany that make these? Thanks.

Walter

 

[E911]

airboxes for ITBs...

+1 on the source for these please.

Thanks in advance- Sal

 

[Clubsport_CSi]

I had the same concerns about the thermostat housing. They are working on that now, so I'll let you know the solution they come up with (I've got my fingers crossed). I'm not really looking for major power gains, really the larger engine, auto to 5spd, and fuel injection will give me most of the power gains I am looking for. My goal with the ITBs was for the motor to be a little livelier across the power band; between the ITBs and custom ground cam I should get that.

I will look into custom trumpets/intake if the stock ones do not work. Daniel, do you know the names of the companies in Germany that make these? Thanks.

Walter

Hi Walter and Sal,

sorry for my delay in getting back to you.

One source for universal airboxes in Germany is Thorsten Mueller, known as the "flow-improver". You can find his homepage here:

http://www.flow-improver.de/

Universal airboxes at that specific url:

http://www.flow-improver.de/shopdeutsch/00000099520c63241/03bb3c996011eea4e/index.php

It will look similar to the setup installed on the Group2 race car sold by Springbok in the Netherlands some time ago:

There is also a guy manufacturing a carbon airbox specifically for S38 conversions into the E9 chassis. But he had had a heart attack a while ago so I would have to check if he still runs his business if someone is interested in.

Best regards,
Daniel

 

[WALTER]

Daniel,

Thanks for the link. I will contact them if the guys at Dynotech run into problems.

Walter

 

[WALTER]

Hi Gents,

The build on my '74 is coming to an end. The guys at Dynotech have completed the wiring and are beginning the tuning. There is one mechanical issue that they haven't tackled yet that I am hoping someone can help diagnose.

When I bought the car I deployed a few weeks later, so I didn't get a chance to drive it much. I came back after 7 months and it wouldn't start, so I sent it to a mechanic who got it running very well. Driving it home; however, the steering wheel began to shake violently (side to side) at around 50+ mph, slowing down reduced the amount of shaking and it would disappear around 30 mph. I pulled over and checked that the wheels were all tight (they were), tire pressure was good (yes), and that nothing suspension wise had fallen off (nothing had). When I started off again the shake returned at around 50 mph; pulled over and checked everything again, and tried to limp home under 30 mph. This time the problem disappeared for the rest of the trip and I even got it over 50 mph for extended stretches without the shaking (yeah, I know should have had it towed). I did take back to the shop that got the car started to have them check it out. They did not see any glaring suspension issues (I looked at it too), so I took it home and the same thing happened again. I did not have time to deal with the problem then because I was getting the car shipped to Dynotech across country the next day.

I believe this problem has to do with the brakes for a few reasons:

1. When I returned from my deployment and it did not start, it was very difficult to push into position for the tow truck. The ground was level and the tow truck and I were pretty strong so it should have been relatively easy to move (no, the e-brake was not on).

2. When the steering shake occurred I naturally hit the brakes and the car would pull very strongly to the right.

3. Suspension components were checked by guys at Carl Nelson's shop prior to purchase. Not saying they are infallible but I would think they would have caught the problem, also the other mechanic and myself did not see any problems with the suspension prior to me having to get it shipped.

Would a frozen or sticking caliper cause these symptoms? Has any one else experienced this and found out what the problem was? Any advice is appreciated.

thanks,

Walter

 

[JhwShark]

Walter, Glad your back, BIG THANKS!

Have you checked wheel balance...usually between 55-65 mph a vibration/shaking felt through the steering for front wheel balance issues. Could be bearings loose/or failing. The odd facts are 50-30, the oscillation harmonics of the wheel are not usually at that speed (wheel rotation).

A warped rotor can be felt through the steering wheel, but only on applying the brakes. Calipers should be OK, but binding on one side may be an issue. Jack the car up and hand turn the front tires, are they the same effort to spin??

The only other thing I can think of would be a binding parking brake component inside the rear rotor/drum. Any issues at the rear wheels??

Jon

 

[Brystone]

Hi Walter,

It sounds to me like you may possibly have an issue with a sticking brake caliper. Have you checked the brake discs/ rotors for discolouration?

You may not notice an issue simply by spinning the wheels, paricularly if the brakes are cold. The problem can become more pronounced due to heat build up during driving.

Richard

 

[WALTER]

Wheels were balanced prior to install (I put on 16in Alpinas), so I kindof ruled that out. I didn't check the parking brake for proper operation or discoloration on the discs, so I will do that and check that the wheels spin freely/evenly. Jon and Richard, thanks for the advice.

 

[Bill Riblett]

This happened to me last summer with my 635. It really seemed like it was the left front caliper sticking, but it turned out to be the brake master cylinder that was bad.

In my case, the shaking was at a little higher speed - 65 mph - and if I slowed down to 55 or so, there was very little shaking. I drove about 20 miles to get home and as I drove, I realized that the brakes were sticking slightly all the time. If I came to a stoplight and took my foot off the gas, the car would slowly come to a near stop! I had no apparent ill effects from the drive, but I wound up replacing the whole brake system as it was time.

 

[echappe]

sticking break pads will cause wheel to get extremely hot

 

[WALTER]

Brake master cylinder? I didn't think of that, but it makes sense; I'll have the shop look into it. Thanks!