5 spd MTclutch question

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losverdesm6

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Hi
Does any know which model /year clutch components I should buy for a CS with following components?

  • engine: M30B35,
  • flywheel : 533i/M5
  • trans: Getrag 265 (out of E12)
Candidate:

  1. clutch kit for E12 getrag 265,(80-81)
  2. clutch kit for e28/e24 getrag 265 (85 only)
  3. clutch kit for e28/e24 getrag 260/6 (86 and later)
  4. clutch kit for e28 m5/e24 m6 getrag 280
All 4 have same disc diameter (240mm), but discs and covers have different part #s.

TIA
Jack
 
You are the man!

SFDon, You are the man.

I agree with answer 5.

Thank you so much!

Extra credit question.

How about a drive shaft?
Since I don't have an original CSa drive shaft for 5spd conversion, which drive shaft do you recommend ?

FYI, I have an output flange out of 260/6.


  1. E12 80-81 getrag 265,
  2. E24/28 83-84 getrag 260/5
  3. E24/28 85 getrag 265
  4. E24/28 getrG 260/6
  5. or?!!

Thanks!
Jack



You want the clutch and pressure plate for a Euro 218 hp m30 b34

208 hp M30 B35 being driven in LA with a lightweight single mass flywheel should be

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=l0acje554ay1gyvck3byvh55&partnumber=21211223125

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=l0acje554ay1gyvck3byvh55&partnumber=21211225645

#12,3 are too weak

#4 will wear you out and is overkill.[/QUOTE]
 
Get the used CSA driveshaft and the 260/6 output shaft AND the e34 guibo for the M5 and the money you save by not having to change the drive shaft length will pay for new u-joints.

It's a win-win deal....
 
Don, not to steal this thread but I went the 262 flange, M5 guibo route with an automatic driveshaft and have found the front shaft to be about ¾” short. I know I seem to have the worst luck on this swap :oops: but do you have any thoughts on where I went wrong again ? I'm thinking my shaft has been modified / butchered when it was changed to serviceable U-joints. Also do you have any recommendations on who to use for a new shaft, I’m about ready to bite the bullet and pop for a new shaft ? Thank you. ~ John Buchtenkirch

P.S. I really can’t complain, the 265 Getrag I got off eBay seems to be quite & shifts OK :) for the little bit that I drove it. Things could be worse.
 
the numbers are :

big flange 1.78"
medium flange 1.3"
small flange .87"

you have to use thee right flange.
 

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Don, the flange measures 1 ¾” plus using a tape under the car so I’m sure it’s the 1.78. The guibo joint which I believe is a M5 measures 1 5/16” with the tape. I’m suspecting that someone murdered my driveshaft when they cut the ends off and machined them to use serviceable U-joints from a 240Z & 260Z Datsun. The U-joints were out of phase to each other and it was machined so poorly I had to grind some off the C-clips on a surface grinder to free up the U-joints.

The guy at Nassau Driveshaft didn’t want to bother with it on Monday but had a change of heart today and hooked me up. He doesn’t care for the internal C-clips because they only hold the U-joint bearings for around 200 degrees as compared to the external C-clips that hold for about 340 degrees. I assured him I wasn’t ever going to do burn outs with the car and agreed to take my chances with the clips which did work OK in the Datsun so he went ahead and repaired on my shaft. Going down to the shop now to finish the install :-D. ~ John Buchtenkirch
 
I think your numbers are right- someone already cut that shaft.
 
sfdon said:
I think your numbers are right- someone already cut that shaft.
Click to expand...

I obviously don’t have anything near your expertise on these 5 speed swaps but I’m 98% convinced that’s what the problem was. I gave Nassau driveshaft the longer front shaft from my Bavaria parts car and he used it to lengthen the front half of my coupe front shaft ¾”, now the center support lands right in the middle of the driveshaft tunnel mounting slots --- absolutely sweet.

After installing the new driveshaft I took it out last night and drove it around for 1 ½ hours with no driveshaft vibrations at all. It seems to ride hard compared to my old Bavaria but that was some 30 years ago so maybe my memory is a bit fuzzy on that one. The P.O. has installed Bilsteins, maybe he installed the stiffer race shocks ? I have to adjust the headlights higher (I slammed only the nose) and a few other minor tweaks but she is pretty near road ready now. More updates & photos in the near future in my own thread. BIGGEST THANKS to you Don, for pointing me in the right direction on bleeding the clutch slave :-D, my Mercedes genius friend Jimmy Dee is still sulking :oops: about how wrong he was on that one. ~ John Buchtenkirch
 
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John Buchtenkirch said:
It seems to ride hard compared to my old Bavaria but that was some 30 years ago so maybe my memory is a bit fuzzy on that one. The P.O. has installed Bilsteins, maybe he installed the stiffer race shocks ? Buchtenkirch
Click to expand...

My experience has been that coupes ride harsher than Bavarias
 
congrats John!
One item to watch is the depth of the hole at the nose of the driveshaft compared to the length of the output shaft of the tranny. If they don't match the guibo will not be flush and will cause problems..
 
Question to Don

Hello Don,
Thank you for your help.

Now I have started looking for a CSa drive shaft.

What i need is out of 3.0csa, am I correct?

And If i can not find one, what's next choice?

TIA
Jack
 
Double 02 salvage sells used ones- give them a call.
I will be at Coupekings working next week and can bring it down.
Or call Erik at Coupe king and go pick one up in Long Beach.

Don
 
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