72 Euro spec fjord blue 3.0cs in NH

[G-Man]

Not mine, no affiliation, etc..

http://nh.craigslist.org/ctd/2048828696.html The speedo is in KM's, the side marker lights aren't in the factory position, VIN is for a Euro spec car so the seller is clueless that it's a gray market car. $11.5K for a car that needs paint and floor pan rust repair. On the other hand, the ad says the seller is asking $11.5K. So if you are looking for a restoration project, i.e. good with a welder and have deep pockets for paint, make an offer. Other wise sit back and watch the price drop on this car over the next few months unless the seller finds a buyer who is equally as clueless. This car has the potential to be a serious money pit.

G-Man

 

[Stan]

The car has been listed before.

 

[Baikal]

I'd like to Chime in...

Hello Folks,

Things are largely as G-Man says, except worse. I saw the car about a month ago, on a beautiful "let's add to the stable" sort of Saturday morning. The urge was definitely there. Unfortunately, I left in the same BMW I came in.

Nice enough people - just the price/car ratio is way off.

To begin, with the body:

I have not yet been satisfied by seller about a possible VIN mismatch between panels.

The rust situation is not good. I spent about 1/2 hour under the car. There is advanced rust in several spots, including one frame rail and the floor pans; also beginning at the edge of the rockers. I counted three dime size or larger holes, many more soft spots overall. The five or so body spots seem less important after looking at the undercarriage disaster.

Performance: 'Nonchalant' Late, soft takeup on the new clutch, and laaaaazzy acceleration. Handled OK. Granted, I expected good scoot from a 5-speed '3.5L' car, but it was a massive disappointment. Nice right hand sweeper, downshift to third, 4100 on the tach, stab, nothing...just nothing. I was left wondering if the rusty/flexy floor had affected the accelerator's ability to fully open the throttle.

Trust Thing: The PO suggested several things that turned out to be untrue, the most enticing lie being that it was a 3.5L swap. The block code is incorrect for a 3.4/3.5L (The seller seemed amazed when I said that there was actually a way to tell if this is true by M30 block codes). With that untruth on the books, I was left wondering about other things the PO asserted.

Overall, I really wanted to buy this car but everywhere you look there was an issue. She's a lovely thirty-footer. Just don't get any closer, crawl under her, and for goodness sake don't drive her.

Baikal

 

[WhtMts]

Living in the salt belt poses big problems for any road metal. In the spring on dry days as we cruise down the road there is a fog like appearence in the air. It is salt dust! We cruise down the road, positive and negative air pressures move dust into the deep cavities in the car. Add damp weather and any iron exposed to the salt = oxidation. I had bought a 68' 2002 that was 3 years old. Built before total body immersion for corrosion. Over the rear wheel the paint began bubbling. In three years of being in the salt belt it had corroded through the sheet metal! Knowing the cars history and exposure to the elements is priority. I have begun to assemble a file of the issues related to the E9 coupes, especially rust/oxidation.

 

[d-ace]

I am glad to see people are looking for what is the most important thing to check on these cars before buying “RUST”. Quote: “I spent about 1/2 hour under the car. There is advanced rust in several spots, including one frame rail and the floor pans; also beginning at the edge of the rockers “Baikal”. That’s the first thing I do too when most just want to show you paint, seats and stereo, is jack the car put it on stands and roll under and really look, most CS owners turn blue in a few minutes. I seen a 2800cs a friend bought about 15 years ago had paint just about like this one opened up rockers and removed undercoating in many spots we shoveled about 150 pounds of rust off the floor.
It don’t take much to see check the fifth photo down on CL drivers side pic. You can see rust bubbles coming through the fender down by the rocker panel and the panel looks funny to.
Once the rocker panels and sub-frame are weakened also if the floor is rusted too the only thing holding the car together for frame from the front struts to rear axle in the turns is the door closed and roof.

 

[chicane]

Nice.