72 Radiator replacement... Any land mines?

MyBMWHabit

MyBMWHabit

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Hi All.

Finally got some free time this Sat and the temps are coming back up here in the PNW. Managed to land a new alum. radiator for the Bavaria, and at some point will get the original refurbed, just because. However, any wacky land mines in the path of fitting one of these?

As always, thanks in advance for your help!
 
It's always so terrible to drain the system (coolant gets everywhere), I would probably replace the tstat and any hoses "while you're there". Relatively cheap, but easy to replace with the radiator out of the way.
 
e30strube said:
It's always so terrible to drain the system (coolant gets everywhere), I would probably replace the tstat and any hoses "while you're there". Relatively cheap, but easy to replace with the radiator out of the way.
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Just be careful, a plan to replace the radiator was what led to "replace the hoses" which then became "upgrade the fan and fan clutch" and then "upgrade water pump" and you don't want to know where that has ended up...
 
The saying "don't fix it if it isn't broken" is wise to a point, just make sure you check the components to make sure they are not going to let you down.

Check the fan & fan clutch to see that it won't grenade on you and take out your new radiator and your hood. It's always a good idea to check your thermostat if you haven't done so in a while to make sure it opens as expected. You can throw it in a pan of boiling water to see it operate, and if needed drill the hole.

Once you start going down the rabbit hole on new parts it often ends with a big bill (ask me how I know).
 
e30strube said:
While I'm there... let's swap the engine ;)
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You jest, but here are two pictures, one showing state of car in November and the other from this weekend. This process actually began with “let me change the radiator”!
 

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(Googles “Fumoto radiator drain valve”)… I see Fumoto oil pan drain valves, is that what you’re using?
 
I put one of the Fumoto drain valves in my block, I noted that @Stevehose had done that and thought it was a nice idea to help drain the block when changing fluid. A perfect example of how deep rabbit holes get around here...
 
Any chance you have that part number? I added one for my oil pan because although it sticks downwards just a bit, I have a front air dam so if there something hitting that valve beneath the engine I will already have had bigger problems than draining oil.
 
e9Leveque said:
Any chance you have that part number? I added one for my oil pan because although it sticks downwards just a bit, I have a front air dam so if there something hitting that valve beneath the engine I will already have had bigger problems than draining oil.
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F106N: Long Nipple Oil Drain Valve with M14-1.5
F106N: Long Nipple Oil Drain Valve with M14-1.5

I also have one for the block (requires a spacer), same part number.
 
boonies said:
The saying "don't fix it if it isn't broken" is wise to a point, just make sure you check the components to make sure they are not going to let you down.

Check the fan & fan clutch to see that it won't grenade on you and take out your new radiator and your hood. It's always a good idea to check your thermostat if you haven't done so in a while to make sure it opens as expected. You can throw it in a pan of boiling water to see it operate, and if needed drill the hole.

Once you start going down the rabbit hole on new parts it often ends with a big bill (ask me how I know).
Click to expand...
this is wise advice. if you don't know the true age of things like water pump, thermostat, etc. it might be wise to jump down the rabbit hole. you can limit things based on whether its improving the engine or protecting it. protecting the engine is money well spent to keep things healthy and working. improving the engine and the way everything looks ... that's a 'nice to have' category. if you are putting a new engine in, my belief is do everything to protect that investment.
 
The biggest challenge can be bleeding the system one tip is to make sure the front of the car is higher than the rear to help get the air to rise to the bleed screw. Also pour antifreeze in slowly to help air get out.
 
chope97 said:
The biggest challenge can be bleeding the system one tip is to make sure the front of the car is higher than the rear to help get the air to rise to the bleed screw. Also pour antifreeze in slowly to help air get out.
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It can be an excuse to buy a new tool if you are so inclined. I just purchased a vacuum fill system for my 2018 Audi Q7 winter project. The vacuum fill process is needed for the modern vehicles and I am sure it will work equally well for our vintage cars.
 
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