'74 3.0CS for sale in Seattle

kevin

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I have owned my coupe since 2004. Been sitting in my garage past 6 years. I put an add on CL Seattle yesterday and was flooded with emails from non bimmerheads so I pulled the add. Has rust. Passenger floorboard is thin, rust in sheet metal near both front strut towers and minor surface rust. Asking $5,500.
Polaris on blue cloth interior. 4 speed. Engine rings are worn. Webers need to be rebuilt. Runs like it has been sitting for 6 years. Email with questions or photo requests. Put "e9couple.com" in the subject line.

Thanks.

[email protected]
 

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Hi Kevin,

Email sent. I don't need another project coupe but I would be happy to take a look for our members if you are nearby.
 
Looks like a good project- price very fair, probably could not recoup the cost in parts if it's unrestorable but for the right person it looks like it's worth the risk. Forget the seals, Save the coupes!
 
I met with Kevin today. What a nice guy! Pics on the way!

I would say that this car is definitely worth the full asking price. One would be hard pressed to find a better car for the price. Honestly, if I wasn't emotionally invested in my car and I didn't have a detailed history on mine, I'd consider swaping them out.

This is a good car for someone who wants a cheap project driver. It could be a candidate for a full restoration, but it looks solid enough for a cheap respray, low budget metal work, and pure enjoyment.

How is this for factory turnaround time?

BMW 3.0 CS US VIN 4310104 was manufactured on February 05th, 1974 and delivered on February 18th, 1974 to the BMW importer Hoffman Motors Corp. in New York City. The original colour was Granatrot metallic, paint code 025.


Exterior:

The car appears to have an original color of Granatrot, with a respray to Polaris. There are random rust bubbles around the car, likely highlighting some past bodywork. At 15' the car looks nice.

The fender boxes seemed to be in good shape. The inner fender tops near the shock towers are just starting to rot, but they could easily be patched up. The inner fender seam is in good shape along the edge where the outer meets the inner, save for one sub-dime-sized spot on the passenger side, also fixable.

The windhsield frame looks to be in good shape, as does the lip around the cowl area. I'm certain that there was some leakage at one point, because there is evidence of a repair behind the glove box. The good news is that it was MIG welded and not fiberglassed.

There is evidence of sheetmetal repair need the passenger right footwell. This is where my car has a 2' hole. Also the floor in this area has been repaired with a small piece of sheetmetal (also welded). The passenger floor still has a dime sized hole visible. As kevin mentioned the floors are 'thin'.

I pulled the passenger rear seat and the subframe mounts are rust free and I didn't see much of any rust under the seats. The rear floors have some rust forming in the seam that catches water (see Peter's video), but the rear pans look good enough.

I pulled the spare tire. It looks a bit thin and has surface rust, but seemed sturdy enough with no sign of repairs. The underside looked good.

This is an electric sunroof car. I couldn't examine the rockers due to the trim, but the seam where the rockers meet the floor pans were pretty clean. I saw no signs of holes in wells front of the rear tires

The shock towers looked solid but I didn't want to pull too hard on the elephant skin. There were some very large washers on the shock mounts, but I don't think they were welded in place. I took pics that may help.

Kevin swapped the diving board bumpers out for euro replacements. They look good and I didn't even realize that it was a '74 at first. the rear late model mounting holes could be filled better, but it's a good start.

Interior:

The interior is in fair shape for the price. The rear seats are in good shape. The passenger seat is in good shape, the driver's seat is in fair shape. Kevin also has spare factory stitched seat fabric in very good shape.

The center console is partially assembled and the wood base is disconnected from the console sides. The car has a nice factory boot and a later model , but period correct leather knob. The steering wheel looks like an 350mm (or less) 80's Personal. Kevin has the factory wheel and it's in good shape.

The dash is in fair shape. I don't recall any major cracks on the cluster cover, and there may have been a crack on the main dash top. The dash wood has flaking clear, but is not delaminating. The same goes for the door wood.

The front carpet has been tinkered with to address the floor boards. I'd probably replace it but the rear looked good from what I recall.

Engine:

We fired up the motor, using some starting fluid. It has weber down drafts. The motor mounts require replacement. The engine is missing and it feels like one cylinder isn't firing. I didn't investigate for long.
 
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I met with Kevin today. What a nice guy! Pics on the way!

I would say that this car is definitely worth the full asking price. One would be hard pressed to find a better car for the price. Honestly, if I wasn't emotionally invested in my car and I didn't have a detailed history on mine, I'd consider swaping them out.

This is a good car for someone who wants a cheap project driver. It could be a candidate for a full restoration, but it looks solid enough for a cheap respray, low budget metal work, and pure enjoyment.

Exterior:

The car appears to have an original color of Granatrot, with a respray to Polaris. There are random rust bubbles around the car, likely highlighting some past bodywork. At 15' the car looks nice.

The fender boxes seemed to be in good shape. The inner fender tops near the shock towers are just starting to rot, but they could easily be patched up. The inner fender seam is in good shape along the edge where the outer meets the inner, save for one sub-dime-sized spot on the passenger side, also fixable.

The windhsield frame looks to be in good shape, as does the lip around the cowl area. I'm certain that there was some leakage at one point, because there is evidence of a repair behind the glove box. The good news is that it was MIG welded and not fiberglassed.

There is evidence of sheetmetal repair need the passenger right footwell. This is where my car has a 2' hole. Also the floor in this area has been repaired with a small piece of sheetmetal (also welded). The passenger floor still has a dime sized hole visible. As kevin mentioned the floors are 'thin'.

I pulled the passenger rear seat and the subframe mounts are rust free and I didn't see much of any rust under the seats. The rear floors have some rust forming in the seam that catches water (see Peter's video), but the rear pans look good enough.

I pulled the spare tire. It looks a bit thin and has surface rust, but seemed sturdy enough with no sign of repairs. The underside looked good.

This is an electric sunroof car. I couldn't examine the rockers due to the trim, but the seam where the rockers meet the floor pans were pretty clean. I saw no signs of holes in wells front of the rear tires

The shock towers looked solid but I didn't want to pull too hard on the elephant skin. There were some very large washers on the shock mounts, but I don't think they were welded in place. I took pics that may help.

Kevin swapped the diving board bumpers out for euro replacements. They look good and I didn't even realize that it was a '74 at first. the rear late model mounting holes could be filled better, but it's a good start.

Interior:

The interior is in fair shape for the price. The rear seats are in good shape. The passenger seat is in good shape, the driver's seat is in fair shape. Kevin also has spare factory stitched seat fabric in very good shape.

The center console is partially assembled and the wood base is disconnected from the console sides. The car has a nice factory boot and a later model , but period correct leather knob. The steering wheel looks like an 350mm (or less) 80's Personal. Kevin has the factory wheel and it's in good shape.

The dash is in fair shape. I don't recall any major cracks on the cluster cover, and there may have been a crack on the main dash top. The dash wood has flaking clear, but is not delaminating. The same goes for the door wood.

The front carpet has been tinkered with to address the floor boards. I'd probably replace it but the rear looked good from what I recall.

Engine:

We fired up the motor, using some starting fluid. It has weber down drafts. The motor mounts require replacement. The engine is missing and it feels like one cylinder isn't firing. I didn't investigate for long.
Mark, you have found your calling. Professional e9 Coupe Appraiser. You have what I call a "cold eye." A compliment.
Steve
 
Hold your compliment while I load the pics so we can throw this coupe to the wolves. By wolves, I mean all the coupe folks that bought their $30K+ coupe for $10K prior to 2008. I fully expect responses about lurking issues and a $70K restoration bill. :D
 
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I have owned my coupe since 2004. Been sitting in my garage past 6 years. I put an add on CL Seattle yesterday and was flooded with emails from non bimmerheads so I pulled the add. Has rust. Passenger floorboard is thin, rust in sheet metal near both front strut towers and minor surface rust. Asking $5,500.
Polaris on blue cloth interior. 4 speed. Engine rings are worn. Webers need to be rebuilt. Runs like it has been sitting for 6 years. Email with questions or photo requests. Put "e9couple.com" in the subject line.

Thanks.

[email protected]

Email Sent.
 
Kudos to Kevin for being such a good sport about putting his coupe under a microscope for the benefit of our community. As mentioned I definitely think this coupe is worth $5K. I hope that a member jumps on this one.

With that said, I'll focus on the 'opportunities'...


Inner fender tops starting to erode. Very fixable IMO, structure underneath seems sound.
IMG_3613.JPG

The bubbles
IMG_3620.JPGIMG_3623.JPGIMG_3659.JPG
IMG_3633.JPGIMG_3634.JPG

A glimpse at the belly
IMG_3638.JPG
IMG_3645.JPG

Fuse Box
IMG_3646.JPG

Glove Box - Darks streaks = MIG welding wire. This area has been repaired, not by an expert welder.
IMG_3654.JPG
 
$5.5k is definitely fair.

However, car like this needs to be completely stripped, dipped in caustic solution/acid/galvanized (they do that at Redi-Strip up in Vancouver, BC) to get out all the rust. That's about $5k.

Then I forsee another $15k in body work alone (not including paint). But you'll have the most solid body E9 afterwards w/a known history. Something $50k cars don't always have.
 
$5.5k is definitely fair.

However, car like this needs to be completely stripped, dipped in caustic solution/acid/galvanized (they do that at Redi-Strip up in Vancouver, BC) to get out all the rust. That's about $5k.

Then I forsee another $15k in body work alone (not including paint). But you'll have the most solid body E9 afterwards w/a known history. Something $50k cars don't always have.

Was waiting for this response. Most members would advise against dipping the car(but it's something I've always been interested in)

Option 2 is to fix the small sheet metal issues, respray and enjoy. This car is more solid than most of the $8K-$9K cars that I've seen this summer.

The respray isn't great, and the rust mitigation on the outer panels probably wasn't done well. That's all par for the course for $5K though.
 
Thanks for posting the images Markos! I agree that the 5.5k asking is fair. I am a bit on the fence though about the number of places where there is corrosion and whether it suits what I am looking for to complement the 2800CS I already have.

Thanks for the tip on Redi Strip. I will be needing such a service and conveniently there is one here in Indianapolis only about half hour drive away!
 
Markos, Option 2 is problematic as the strut area rust surely has more below so a sheet metal fix there is cosmetic only and not fixing the real rust issue.
 
Interesting..... but the sunroof is a problem...

Your post didn't make much sense until i saw that you were the one looking for the granatrot. If you are feeling ambitious, one of our coupe members will have an extremely clean slick top available. He's doing a sunroof co
Markos, Option 2 is problematic as the strut area rust surely has more below so a sheet metal fix there is cosmetic only and not fixing the real rust issue.

I totally agree but the area below the rust hole is fine IMO. The rust starts from water under the sound deadening, and works its way down to the 'fender box' (which looked good when I stuck my phone in there. The plate below the inner fender is pretty thick, and this looked solid to me during my cursory look. I'm intimately familiar with that area at this point because I have complete access to it on my parts car. :) I think it's fine to drive and the current owner has done so for years. It looked like that when he got the car, which makes sense for everyone who garages their project coupe.

I think the biggest risk of a 'respray and drive' would be new paint that started to bubble due to not properly fixing the surface rust

Here is my personal reference point:
24255575543_a651d4c7c7_b.jpg
 
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