I read somewhere a while ago something about adding fuses to some of the red wires coming off the battery positive. I have a total of 5 ( 2 singles and then 3 in one connector). Can anyone refer me to the post as I cant seem to find it. OR shed some light on the topic. I`m about to add a relay and fuse for the headlamps prior to upgrading the bulbs so now might be the right time to add a little 5 post fuse box in the area. Thanks in advance
Adding fuses
- Thread starter 2ma2
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Jan Gullett
Well-Known Member
Fuses at Battery
When I moved my battery to the trunk, I installed a new fuse box in the old battery location. I fused all of the red wires that go from the battery cable. If you pull apart the wire harness at the battery you will see there are a number of individual circuits which I fused independently. I like others I feel much safer and the independent fusing has made electrical trouble shooting easier over the years. If there is interest I could post details.
When I moved my battery to the trunk, I installed a new fuse box in the old battery location. I fused all of the red wires that go from the battery cable. If you pull apart the wire harness at the battery you will see there are a number of individual circuits which I fused independently. I like others I feel much safer and the independent fusing has made electrical trouble shooting easier over the years. If there is interest I could post details.
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Please do and thanks!
Jan Gullett
Well-Known Member
Fuse Box Under the Hood
Here are the details of the fuse box I added in the battery location when I moved my battery to the trunk.
I opened up the wire harness end at the old battery terminal and crimped a spade connector to each wire. I bought a simple fuse holder from JCWhitney which held ten fuses. I connected my main supply line from the battery to the starter and then on to this fuse box which I mounted just to the left of the radiator. I set up my headlights (upgraded Hellas) and my Hella twin horns to relays connected to the new fuse box.
My ten fuses include four red wires from the original harness two of which are required for the engine to run. Other fuses include the horns, high beams, low beams and auxiliary AC radiator fan. I sized the fuses to be below the capacity of the size of the wire and just above the size that normal use would blow. They are generally 10, 15 or 20 amps.
I fashioned a fuse box cover from an old plastic box from the shop. It is not waterproof, but I have never had any issue given this location under the hood. Perhaps it should be waterproof. But I haven't had an issue in more than 50K miles which include major rainstorms and a lot standing water in the street.
I have kept all of my relays together in the OEM location. One of the pictures shows how I did this when I added relays.
Here are the details of the fuse box I added in the battery location when I moved my battery to the trunk.
I opened up the wire harness end at the old battery terminal and crimped a spade connector to each wire. I bought a simple fuse holder from JCWhitney which held ten fuses. I connected my main supply line from the battery to the starter and then on to this fuse box which I mounted just to the left of the radiator. I set up my headlights (upgraded Hellas) and my Hella twin horns to relays connected to the new fuse box.
My ten fuses include four red wires from the original harness two of which are required for the engine to run. Other fuses include the horns, high beams, low beams and auxiliary AC radiator fan. I sized the fuses to be below the capacity of the size of the wire and just above the size that normal use would blow. They are generally 10, 15 or 20 amps.
I fashioned a fuse box cover from an old plastic box from the shop. It is not waterproof, but I have never had any issue given this location under the hood. Perhaps it should be waterproof. But I haven't had an issue in more than 50K miles which include major rainstorms and a lot standing water in the street.
I have kept all of my relays together in the OEM location. One of the pictures shows how I did this when I added relays.
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Honolulu
Well-Known Member
Jan, you drive in the rain? Murray would have you shot on sight 
Jan Gullett
Well-Known Member
Pictures of my battery relocation to the trunk are here: http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9710&page=2 because my battery is held in a rear shock tower cross brace.
I do sometimes drive my coupe in the rain, perhaps a half dozen times each year. I wouldn't except for the fact that I did a bare metal restoration when I bought my coupe. I removed the undercoating and repaired every rust spot, rustproofed all of the metal, welded all seams, relocated the sunroof drains, sealed off the front upper support channels, sealed the rear of the front wheel well rear covers, sealed every seam, sealed and coated most everything with body wax, cleaned and coated the inside of the side rails and frame rails, replaced four fenders, two doors and the floor of the trunk and other parts with new factory sheet metal which was then available and anything else I could think of.
It has been in California with me for the almost twenty years since. The only spots of rust that I have seen in this time were from scratches from road debris on the the subframes which I promptly repaired. So I think I am OK to drive in the rain once in a while. When I did the restoration, the other car I had considered choosing was a 246 Dino Ferrari. I chose the Coupe because I wanted something I could drive weekly if not daily. While I made a financial mistake, I have driven my coupe almost 80K miles, so I got what I wanted, even if it rains.
I do sometimes drive my coupe in the rain, perhaps a half dozen times each year. I wouldn't except for the fact that I did a bare metal restoration when I bought my coupe. I removed the undercoating and repaired every rust spot, rustproofed all of the metal, welded all seams, relocated the sunroof drains, sealed off the front upper support channels, sealed the rear of the front wheel well rear covers, sealed every seam, sealed and coated most everything with body wax, cleaned and coated the inside of the side rails and frame rails, replaced four fenders, two doors and the floor of the trunk and other parts with new factory sheet metal which was then available and anything else I could think of.
It has been in California with me for the almost twenty years since. The only spots of rust that I have seen in this time were from scratches from road debris on the the subframes which I promptly repaired. So I think I am OK to drive in the rain once in a while. When I did the restoration, the other car I had considered choosing was a 246 Dino Ferrari. I chose the Coupe because I wanted something I could drive weekly if not daily. While I made a financial mistake, I have driven my coupe almost 80K miles, so I got what I wanted, even if it rains.
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