Adjustable rear subframe for E9.

Very interesting ... I had a conversation with a well known expert who highly recommends their work product
 
It's nice ...
Toe and camber adjust
2 week turnaround and a good price
 
IE has the pieces, it's an easy weld-on. I have them on my e9 and it allows for perfect adjustment to stock specs- or more aggressive settings. I put mine on so I could get the rear end back into perfect spec. And no Don, I have not figured out the front yet :-(

You do have to remove the subframe to weld it properly and you have to elongate the original holes. 350.00 is not a bad price at all to have someone do it for you, the real work is pulling it apart and putting it back up.
 
Interesting, Peter did you go with the IE pieces that are Posi lock style? In the Garagistic ad copy, they state that other kits use flimsy bent metal pieces. Looks very much like the IE standard piece as far as I can tell.
Posi lock style looks nicely done
http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/E9-E3-suspension-steering/adjcmbkit-lock.html

For me , shipping costs back and forth would be be a big issue.
 
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The toe/camber kits from IE are $170. So for $350, you're paying for the kits and labor. Not to mention: "...we now powdercoat all of our subframes at no additional cost"

Really a nice price, but wonder which setup would be preferred. The eccentric type which is what you get, or the kind aforementioned from IE w/the posi-lock setup???
 
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is powder coat really the best way to go? I have had GREAT luck with media blast, catalyzed Dupont Variprime (or PPG epoxy primer) followed by normal single stage urethane flat black. Of course, this is on a car that is maxed out at 125mph, only gets driven 1-2k miles a year, no snow, no salt, and rarely on dirt and gravel roads.

If I were to powder coat, I'd feel a heck of a lot better if there were a way to apply a anti-corrosion spray on coating first (zinc rich catalyzed primer or whatever is the new equivalent that is for sale everywhere but California).

I say all this because I had a set of 2 piece basket weaves (E39) that were restored and powder coated. As soon as one suffered a very very small nick, water immediately got under the powder coat. This caused the PC to separate in significant sheets, and within a year it needed to be redone. I spray coating with lower film strength but perhaps higher adhesion might have ended up being more durable because it wouldn't trap moisture underneath any small breaches in the film.

YMMV
John
 
So far in my winter experiments with roof rack parts I made for my E46 wagon, the paint system that has held up the best (by far) is to blast, acid etch, and apply POR 15 with a top coat of enamel. Hasn't budged in years of salt spray. (Ontario highway driving is as bad as it gets). I have had quite a few parts fail with my home shop applied power coat. Not all, but some. Still experimenting with that finish.

I think I will go rubber with those Poly inserts on my subframe . I certainly want the car to maintain some Lux qualities. Thanks Don.
 
Here's a close up pic of the subframe recently fabricated by Garagistic. Unlike the photo on their website, this shows the slot with the bolt removed. I think this is their first E9 and that's where they got the photo.
 

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...and it depends on how extreme you want to go...

e9 and e12, both with 'solid' plated ends
e9 trailing arms both mounts with bearing carrriers
e12 trailing arms outer mount bearing carrier, inner rod end

the camber/castor adjusters are very easy to do, bit of a pain slotting the existing holes.

I have also plated between the beam trailing arm mounts and diff mount
 

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I've done a few not to complicated of a job.

d4bb9a048e22698df734db6b54c7a7a1.jpg


The real work is pulling it out and installing. If your in NorCal let me know if you want to give it a go. I have an extra subframe so I can just swap it in yours.

Barry


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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