adjustment of engine

bmwe91974

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hey I've got be adjusted my valves so my 3.5 sounds super nice.
But idling is the very up and down. it will say that it's hard to keep the engine idling. When I give it gas so there is no problem. Does anyone know what i should look for:?
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwe91974
hey I've got be adjusted my valves so my 3.5 sounds super nice.
But idling is the very up and down. it will say that it's hard to keep the engine idling. When I give it gas so there is no problem. Does anyone know what i should look for:???:


You did not provide much information about the subject vehicle and since your heading mentions "adjustment" something may be lost in translation.

Did this problem exist before you adjusted the valves?

You describe a wandering or erratic idle. This can indicate a fuel mixture that is either too rich or too lean. It can be caused, as has been suggested, by a vacuum leak or leaks, especially if you inadvertently removed or disconnected a vacuum hose. However, that type of vacuum leak usually results in an increased idle speed.

If you were using carburetors, my first inclination would be to check the mixture settings or insure that all idle circuits/jets are clean. But, since you have a 3.5 L engine, I would guess you are probably running fuel injection and possibly a more modern "L" Jetronic system with an oxygen sensor fitted to the exhaust. If this is the case, I would check to make sure all of the electrical connections are clean (corrosion free) and tight and this includes all sensors and the air flow meter. Of course, checking similar connections with the DJet is always a good idea too, since a bad connection could also affect the idle.

Naturally, the above suggestions presuppose your ignition system is in working order with properly adjusted timing and that you have not overlooked something obvious like disconnected or mis-connected plug wires or improperly gapped plugs. There are a lot of basics, check them all.

Good luck.

Tuborg hof.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwe91974
hey I've got be adjusted my valves so my 3.5 sounds super nice.
But idling is the very up and down. it will say that it's hard to keep the engine idling. When I give it gas so there is no problem. Does anyone know what i should look for:???:


You did not provide much information about the subject vehicle and since your heading mentions "adjustment" something may be lost in translation.

Did this problem exist before you adjusted the valves?

You describe a wandering or erratic idle. This can indicate a fuel mixture that is either too rich or too lean. It can be caused, as has been suggested, by a vacuum leak or leaks, especially if you inadvertently removed or disconnected a vacuum hose. However, that type of vacuum leak usually results in an increased idle speed.

If you were using carburetors, my first inclination would be to check the mixture settings or insure that all idle circuits/jets are clean. But, since you have a 3.5 L engine, I would guess you are probably running fuel injection and possibly a more modern "L" Jetronic system with an oxygen sensor fitted to the exhaust. If this is the case, I would check to make sure all of the electrical connections are clean (corrosion free) and tight and this includes all sensors and the air flow meter. Of course, checking similar connections with the DJet is always a good idea too, since a bad connection could also affect the idle.

Naturally, the above suggestions presuppose your ignition system is in working order with properly adjusted timing and that you have not overlooked something obvious like disconnected or mis-connected plug wires or improperly gapped plugs. There are a lot of basics, check them all.

Good luck.

Tuborg hof.

Hi there you got my thoughts going, yes it is a fuel injection engine but it is an "L" Jetronic system,i dont know. but the are going 6 air tubes along the length of the engine., and yes when I drove the car from Dusseldof (Germany) to Copenhagen (Denmark), the engine run up and down the revs, so I thought that this is because of bad valves!
But thank you so much.
Krister
Carlsberg is the best:mrgreen:
 
What's this "Carlsberg is the Best"? I hope you don't mean beer...because if so, you need to get out a little more. IMHO, Carlsberg is a euro version of American standard i.e.Bud, Coors, Miller that is suitable only for beer-can chicken recipes on the barbie...
 
What's this "Carlsberg is the Best"? I hope you don't mean beer...because if so, you need to get out a little more. IMHO, Carlsberg is a euro version of American standard i.e.Bud, Coors, Miller that is suitable only for beer-can chicken recipes on the barbie...

my friend? I often come out. and I come from Denmark, we make carlsberg and there are several versions of Carlberg good and less good. doing in the beer as you can drink:mrgreen::mrgreen::mrgreen: but but but
 
Hi there you got my thoughts going, yes it is a fuel injection engine but it is an "L" Jetronic system,i dont know. but the are going 6 air tubes along the length of the engine., and yes when I drove the car from Dusseldof (Germany) to Copenhagen (Denmark), the engine run up and down the revs, so I thought that this is because of bad valves!
But thank you so much.
Krister
Carlsberg is the best:mrgreen:

To be on the safe side, assuming your engine is stock, with a stock camshaft, hopefully you adjusted the valves to the recommended clearance when the engine was cold? http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Maintenance/Engine/valve_adjust.htm

Adjustments are different for a Djet system versus an LJet system.

If you have an LJet setup, it will likely have a big air flow meter (big silver object in center of picture) between the manifold and the air cleaner. The above DJet system doesn't have this, but the picture below does. If in doubt, post a picture of your engine.
engine4.jpg



If you have the DJet system (middle picture) I would not only check for vacuum leaks, but I would want to eliminate the possibility that you have a stuck or leaky cold start valve. If that valve leaks or does not shut off completely, it will cause a rich mixture symptomatic of your issue. It is at the very top and middle of the intake manifold log. You can try disconnecting the wires and see if you notice a difference, or even better, remove and plug the fuel line connected to it.

If the cold start valve is a non-issue, the simplest idle adjustment might be the potentiometer (round knob) found on the ECU (computer) found under the right rear passenger seat. In simple terms, turning the knob can alter the idle mixture. This assumes that other fuel injection equipment, e.g., throttle position sensor, is functioning and adjusted properly. Caution: before making any changes, it is a good idea to mark your starting point. If this adjustment produces no change, you really should find someone with hands on experience or consult the shop manual.

If you have an LJet system, you would be better off consulting an E12 or E24 forum for guidance. (For example, search LJet FAQ here: http://www.firstfives.org/

It would also be a good idea for you to consult the reference works here: http://www.cscoupe.org/tech/autobooks/autobooks.html http://www.cscoupe.org/tech/handbook/gallery.htm http://www.cscoupe.org/tech/dljet/dljet.html.

Hope this helps and
held og lykke. :wink:



67? 327? 350?
http://www.firstgencamaro.com/1967.html

 
Last edited:
To be on the safe side, assuming your engine is stock, with a stock camshaft, hopefully you adjusted the valves to the recommended clearance when the engine was cold? http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Maintenance/Engine/valve_adjust.htm

Adjustments are different for a Djet system versus an LJet system. The DJet will have a pressure sending unit also known as a map sensor. (*See first picture) It is ordinarily found bolted behind the brake booster and below the coolant reservoir tank. This device is connected by a vacuum hose to the vacuum manifold.


DSCF0344.JPG

audi-a4-57429569_2add34d51b.jpg


If you have an LJet setup, it will likely have a big air flow meter (big silver object in center of picture) between the manifold and the air cleaner. The above DJet system doesn't have this, but the picture below does. If in doubt, post a picture of your engine.
engine4.jpg



If you have the DJet system (middle picture) I would not only check for vacuum leaks, but I would want to eliminate the possibility that you have a stuck or leaky cold start valve. If that valve leaks or does not shut off completely, it will cause a rich mixture symptomatic of your issue. It is at the very top and middle of the intake manifold log. You can try disconnecting the wires and see if you notice a difference, or even better, remove and plug the fuel line connected to it.

If the cold start valve is a non-issue, the simplest idle adjustment might be the potentiometer (round knob) found on the ECU (computer) found under the right rear passenger seat. In simple terms, turning the knob can alter the idle mixture. This assumes that other fuel injection equipment, e.g., throttle position sensor, is functioning and adjusted properly. Caution: before making any changes, it is a good idea to mark your starting point. If this adjustment produces no change, you really should find someone with hands on experience or consult the shop manual.

If you have an LJet system, you would be better off consulting an E12 or E24 forum for guidance. (For example, search LJet FAQ here: http://www.firstfives.org/

It would also be a good idea for you to consult the reference works here: http://www.cscoupe.org/tech/autobooks/autobooks.html http://www.cscoupe.org/tech/handbook/gallery.htm http://www.cscoupe.org/tech/dljet/dljet.html.

Hope this helps and
held og lykke. :wink:



67? 327? 350?
http://www.firstgencamaro.com/1967.html



It's super cool that you are helping me. I was in the hall today to look at it it does not seem that it might be some leaks. so it may only be the other things I should look at, I took a picture of the engine and it must be Djet system. Is there a big difference Djet and Ljet, and which of the two systems are the best! here is a little video of me running in the hall who can see how the momentum running up and down.
and to [/ QUOTE] I have a 383 cov.67 Camaro Amerikan muscles:twisted:

ps I dont konw wher the potentiometer is. :oops:

se my video on youtube bmw e9 driving indoor
 
I took a picture of the engine and it must be Djet system. Is there a big difference Djet and Ljet, and which of the two systems are the best! here is a little video of me running in the hall who can see how the momentum running up and down.
and to [/ QUOTE] I have a 383 cov.67 Camaro Amerikan muscles:twisted:

ps I dont konw wher the potentiometer is. :oops:

se my video on youtube bmw e9 driving indoor

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bspyr9F_o0s

It looks like you have a very clean car. But it is not easy to tell much about your idling issue from the video. Idle speed seems a little slow, but it is hard to say without seeing things in person. Does the engine come close to stalling if you have the lights and other accessories on?

From the video, it may be that the only thing you need to adjust is the idle speed. This can be accomplished by turning the fat screw (at the lower part of the throttle body) counter clockwise. If you can locate the throttle position switch and pretend you are sitting in the car looking at the switch, the screw is at 7'o'clock position. The picture below may help. The potentiometer is the knob on the box containing the computer. Lift the right rear seat and you should see it on the floor. If you have a knob on the computer, you have a DJet.

LJet system is far more modern than the DJet. When the DJet works well, it is more than adequate for the engine. However, the LJEt is probably considered far superior, because it is more modern and far more precise at delivering fuel. As to which system is the preferred system, it depends on who you ask. The E9's were originally equipped with DJets not LJets.
autobooks_manual_043.jpg
 
Hunting

This is the classic symptom of a bad injector seal(s) Grab a can of starting fluid a give a quick spray to each injector where they enter the manifold. RPM picks up...bingo. These seals last about 5 years before they become hard, cracked...No good.
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bspyr9F_o0s

It looks like you have a very clean car. But it is not easy to tell much about your idling issue from the video. Idle speed seems a little slow, but it is hard to say without seeing things in person. Does the engine come close to stalling if you have the lights and other accessories on?

From the video, it may be that the only thing you need to adjust is the idle speed. This can be accomplished by turning the fat screw (at the lower part of the throttle body) counter clockwise. If you can locate the throttle position switch and pretend you are sitting in the car looking at the switch, the screw is at 7'o'clock position. The picture below may help. The potentiometer is the knob on the box containing the computer. Lift the right rear seat and you should see it on the floor. If you have a knob on the computer, you have a DJet.

LJet system is far more modern than the DJet. When the DJet works well, it is more than adequate for the engine. However, the LJEt is probably considered far superior, because it is more modern and far more precise at delivering fuel. As to which system is the preferred system, it depends on who you ask. The E9's were originally equipped with DJets not LJets.
autobooks_manual_043.jpg
many thanks to you all.
I will try tomorrow with the things of the bruised. Is it difficult to switch the system off to j-jet when you have the d-jet. When I run a lot in Germany and the Munich area, it appears that there are many places where you can buy a Ljet system
 
D-Jet rules

I like the d-jet. But I am old school. Parts are NLA. This a simple system and the rights I believe were sold to Toyota. Typical Japanese routine as they made improvements and marketed as "Toyota EFI" But in concept the same. With the new school stuff, stand alone as it were, I would never go with L or any of the Bosch systems for a retrofit. Watch the posts from my countryman "decoupe" This is the new wave.
 
I like the d-jet. But I am old school. Parts are NLA. This a simple system and the rights I believe were sold to Toyota. Typical Japanese routine as they made improvements and marketed as "Toyota EFI" But in concept the same. With the new school stuff, stand alone as it were, I would never go with L or any of the Bosch systems for a retrofit. Watch the posts from my countryman "decoupe" This is the new wave.

super good, but the d-jet works just as well as l-jet?, and do you know how many horsepower a 3.5 d-jet engine has.?
 
Again, many thanks.
I've been and checked all the things you described. And yes, I could adjust the momentum of the box that sitting under the right rear seat (super cool), and the screw is on intake manifold. But there was something that got my thoughts on that would be bad electrical connection, as it sometimes seems as my power windows are not working the same with the radio.
And quite another thing what are these two buttons used for, seated under emergency light?

picture of a very stupid engine:confused::confused: :-D

Is there anyone who know where there are some good classic workshops in Europe preferably in Germany or Sweden.
 
Efi

Mr. Mercury,
No, I have never tried any Toyota bits. When I worked as a tech for Volvo / Toyota in Seattle in 1985, I watched a tech video for "Toyota's New EFI" When I saw the design I said "s**t...thats D-jet with some subtle improvements! New? Not since '69 / '70! Bosch had moved on at this point to better stuff, so I assumed the rights had been sold or it was a direct rip off. Might be an interesting exercize to do some bone yard scrounging probably '85 to '90 Toyota. Maybe compare the MAF to the Bosch unit. If that worked it could save a lot of cars with D-jet. Last Bosch unit I found was $1200 and spec for a Volvo B30E It worked on the BMW six (not mine) For me, that money would be better spent on stand alone EFI such as Electromotive, SDS, Megasquirt, etc.
 
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