air regulator

Knut

Member
Messages
22
Reaction score
0
Location
Oslo, Norway
I have a problem with cold idle. It runs too fast until it settles down when warm. I have had a few suggestions to what might be the problem. Some refer to the "auxillary air regulator", others to the "air slide". Are both referring to the same component?

Knut
 
What speed does it idle at when cold? The Aux Air Valve is not adjustable. It is open all the way until the heat from the coolant flows past the end and closes it. It's a really simple part. Mine was stuck shut (they can also become stuck closed) which resulted in no cold fast idle. How high is yours idling when cold? I think they're supposed to idle around 1300 RPM or so until the engine reaches operating temperature.
 
Thank you both for helpful information. I have detected the problem to be the air regulator. I disconnected it, an it idles fine now.But I can not get full power without it. Time to go shopping for a new one!
Knut
 
There is the option of simply blocking it off. Some people do this. The big vacuum leak is what's causing your lack of power. If you seal off the inlet tube to the log you should be able to drive the car until you can find a replacement. The aux air regulator is dead nuts simple. If you remove it you can try soaking it in some WD-40 or penetrating oil for a day or so. If you put some heat to the business end you should see it close up all the way. Try that before buying a new one.
 
auxillary air valve, continued.

When e3s, e9s, and 530 were far more abundant, I recall seeing a coupe with a water faucet (similar to the type found on the outside of homes for garden hoses) installed as an on-off valve for the same auxillary air valve of which you speak. It was at a gas station that obviously did not cater to fer'in cars. I have also seen the tube blocked witha sparkplug.

These units may be simple but I have tested many (new and used) and found they all closed to varying degrees at the same temperature. (Used the same pot on the stove). SOme would never close even with a flame direcly applied to the expansion element.

Although a few folks contend all aavalves tend to leak, I have two examples out of probably ten, that do not leak. I mention this because I found it critical to the decent running of the D-Jet. Yes you can tune the D-Jet with the leaky valve, but you may not get consistent results if you have any changes in temperature as one might expect when you leave the driveway. By tuning, I refer to altering the pressure sending unit or by including a potentiometer/ resistance in between sensors (e.g., the sensor screwed into the manifold log. As an aside - pull it off with the engine running and it should default to a rich condition).

I once spoke with a purported Bosch technician about these valves. He acknowledged the problem and suggested the easy fix was to modify the system to accept the newer type auxillary air valve as found on the later 6 cyl models. He likewise suggested funning a hotter thermostat to ensure full colosing of an otherwise lazy valve and - - - even suggested adapting the same type valve as found on similar vintage fuel injected-aircooled Volkswagens (412?) and Porsche 914's. Unfortunately he negelected to fully explain the swap and I chose to find the original style valve that worked.
 
if you want to be really fancy, you could use an ICM and ICV from an earlier Motronic car (before the ICM was built into the ECU)

pinout and description:
http://mydrive.roadfly.com/blog/tmatern/666/

the problem would be the 'engine speed' pin: Motronic produces two pulses for your one pulse since it fires the coil twice per cylinder (wasted spark), but you could make a circuit that takes care of that. otherwise it needs the battery, TPS, coolant temp., and you could leave off the AC and auto. trans. stuff.
 
Back
Top