Ancient Mariner update....and problem

YBNormal

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Finally getting started, a set of 14" Alpinas, a taillight and some switches from Joe Durso after a few false starts. On the way are 215/60 and 225/60 Yoko's, like the staggered look on Bavarian Creme, and a set of Carl Nelson's lowering springs.

A noise near the front of the engine started very recently and has gotten worse real fast. Sounds like a loose end of chain clacking about, but intermittent. It still runs fine, but think it needs to be dealt with immediately. One of our gurus said it sounds like the oil pump drive - sound familiar to any of the experienced Coupers?
 
215's

I think the 215/60's will be fine, may need to roll the fender lip. They're about the same OD as the stock 195/70, and there are several coupes running 225's on the front. The 11mm offset eliminates problems with the suspension.

Anyway, I'll be reading up on the noise problem the next few days and hope it's something I can tackle. With garages at $85 an hour it's a good time to expand my mechanical skills!
 
The Bavarian Creme ad shows a CS sittingon stock 14" CS wheels (not Alpina). I don't recall the OE tire size but I believe it was *something like* a 185/70/14. Whatever it was, I don't believe many manufacturers are making that size tire any more. Lots of people go bigger (ie. 205), but 215 is way larger than stock.
 
To give a slightly more comprehensive anser to your original question, if it is a loose chain, it could be several things:

Oil pump sprocket could be loose- Stop driving the car immediately unless you feel like doing an engie swap, drop the oil pan, and tighten the oil pump sprocket bolts and add some Locktite or wire to keep them from working off again.

Chain tensioner could be going- When facing the front of your coupe, there is a bolt that sticks off the front cover of the motor at an odd angle towards the left side, approximately at the same height level as the fan. This is the chain tensioner. It is essentially a spring and a piston applying pressure to the chain to keep the slack in the chain to a minimum. The spring could be worn out or the piston could be marked up. Either way, it is a very quick thing to replace.

Chain guides could be going- This would be probably the worst thing, in terms of labor. Inside the front timing cover, there are two plastic guide rails that keep the chain's depth-wise movement to a minimum. These, coupled with the tensioner, eliminate most of the chain noise. Unfortunately, the only way to change the guides is to remove the front timing cover, which is a lengthy and arduous task that generally requires impact tools. If you are not mechanically inclined, I'd leave this task to the pros.

Chain could be going- Although practically unheard of, the chain itself could be dying on you. The chains are usualyl good for several hundered thousand miles, so a replacement chain is a very uncommon thing. If you are not mechanically inclined, this is another task I would leave to the pros, as it requires the same procedure as the guides.

lastly,

Cam sprocket could be loose- The chain connects to the camshaft via a large gear behind the upper timing cover. The gear has 4 small bolts that can work their way loose over time. As long as you leave the chain on (so the timing doesn't get messed up) this is a DIY job for those new to wrenching. All it should take is the removal of the distributor, then the upper timing cover, tightening the bolts, replacement of the timing cover, and re-installing the distributor. You might even be able to just remove the cover without removing the distributor from the cover, but I am not sure of that.

That covers pretty much all the elements in the engine that are connected to the chain system, so it has to be ones of those things if it is indeed the chain, or something associated with it.
 
multiple choice

Thanks a bunch, atlas, a very big help. I'll start with the tensioner, then the oil pump sprocket. I'll see how it goes if those two don't fix the problem. My record isn't too bad as long as we don't discuss the Lancia Beta Timing Belt Incident - I'd have bent a few of those valves sooner or later, anyway!
 
The Bavarian Creme ad shows a CS sittingon stock 14" CS wheels (not Alpina). I don't recall the OE tire size but I believe it was *something like* a 185/70/14. Whatever it was, I don't believe many manufacturers are making that size tire any more. Lots of people go bigger (ie. 205), but 215 is way larger than stock.

Is he possibly talking about Murray's e3 with the Bavarian Creme license plates?
 
And the winner is.....

Correct, Tony, went to the Santa Barbara gathering in April and Murray was there with the sedan. Shawn in S.F. and Paul from SoCal(?) both sent pics of their coupes with 225/60's on 7 x 14's all around, and I believe all that's required is rolling the edge of the wheel opening.
 
BVCREME--a Bav different from CS fender

to tire sidewall spacing--I am running 215/60 front and 225/60 rear with no problem on the BVCREME sitting on stock springs and stock 14" steel wheels--

but if on a shortened spring set and on the CS it is highly advisable to have front fender lips rolled as both space available at fender lips and strut come into play.

Ran the BLUMAX for awhile on original rims mounted with 215/60-14's front and rear, Carl Nelsons shortened spring set F/R with rolled front fenders--no clearance problems noted or "strikes" on front fenders--although entering a driveway at aggressive speed could bring about contact and damage.
 
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