Any information would be helpful
- Thread starter de coupe
- Start date
Roger S
Well-Known Member
Vinyl has to be out of the trunk or pulled down, and the windows have to be up to get at the screws on the side of the car, including by the "c" pillar. The front one by the "a" pillar was tricky, I didnt have the window mechanism out, so I had to have the window down about three inches to get a ratched in there. You will need patience on the two by the pillars. The door panel and rear panel must be off/out the car.
With respect to the emblem, they pop out and underneath two screws will be revealed for the chrome base. Get a butter knife or long flat head and work each side up slowly. If you have good paint on your car, you can mess it up quickly. I think there was a write up on the tech articles or I found out by doing a search here or on roadfly.
Hope this helps, if still stuck, post or PM me and I will write more. I can always talk you through it too. Good luck.
With respect to the emblem, they pop out and underneath two screws will be revealed for the chrome base. Get a butter knife or long flat head and work each side up slowly. If you have good paint on your car, you can mess it up quickly. I think there was a write up on the tech articles or I found out by doing a search here or on roadfly.
Hope this helps, if still stuck, post or PM me and I will write more. I can always talk you through it too. Good luck.
jhjacobs
Well-Known Member
There are actually two type of rear window emblems. The early models had threaded rods on the left and right. The emblem has two parts; the base part is screwed down and the screws are exposed only after removing the center emblem. If you are lucky the center emblem nuts are not in place. If they are, the only way I know to get at them would be to pull up the black vinyl on the inside. The later model emblems are also two parts but the threaded rods are now smooth posts like the hood and trunk emblems and they press in to place with nylon grommets.
When I changed mine I was lucky since the nuts were not installed. Since i had the interior dismantled I was able to simply push them out gentle from the inside with a screwdriver. From the outside the butter knife approach is worth trying.
When I changed mine I was lucky since the nuts were not installed. Since i had the interior dismantled I was able to simply push them out gentle from the inside with a screwdriver. From the outside the butter knife approach is worth trying.
blumax
(deceased)
"C" pillar roundel removal
In general--if roundels have never been previously removed--the cloisonne type is originally attached by inner bolt/nut arrangements that are accessible only from the inside per JJ's above--if you have the real "C" pillar roundels--DO NOT ATTEMPT PRYING OFF--you can easily fracture them and be faced with finding replacements or accepting the raised letter type installed after the "bean counters" found out the cost of the original cloissone early type--cloissone roundels at the "C" pillar were generally installed until about halfway through the 1972 model run.
If prying is your only alternative--get the blue plastic tool used for mixing and applying body filler from your favorite auto paint store--get two--I have found them to be the most effective tool for removing your front and rear press in badges without damage to paint or surrounding areas--for obvious reasons never use a screwdriver or metal object when attempting to remove these bits and oieces.
In general--if roundels have never been previously removed--the cloisonne type is originally attached by inner bolt/nut arrangements that are accessible only from the inside per JJ's above--if you have the real "C" pillar roundels--DO NOT ATTEMPT PRYING OFF--you can easily fracture them and be faced with finding replacements or accepting the raised letter type installed after the "bean counters" found out the cost of the original cloissone early type--cloissone roundels at the "C" pillar were generally installed until about halfway through the 1972 model run.
If prying is your only alternative--get the blue plastic tool used for mixing and applying body filler from your favorite auto paint store--get two--I have found them to be the most effective tool for removing your front and rear press in badges without damage to paint or surrounding areas--for obvious reasons never use a screwdriver or metal object when attempting to remove these bits and oieces.