Automatic Transmission Troubleshooting

scanty

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So, I just got my coupe running today(72 Automatic) . (Which I was very excited about). After running it for some time, I put it into various gears to see if the transmission was still good. Long story short, the Reverse selection does not work. You can feel a slight tug if you will when you put it into reverse, however it won't move. Drive and other gears seem to be working just fine.

I am pretty new at this so any pointers in the right direction would be greatly appreciated!
 
There are a couple past threads on adjusting the linkage as a first thing to check.
 
So, I just got my coupe running today(72 Automatic) . (Which I was very excited about). After running it for some time, I put it into various gears to see if the transmission was still good. Long story short, the Reverse selection does not work. You can feel a slight tug if you will when you put it into reverse, however it won't move. Drive and other gears seem to be working just fine.

I am pretty new at this so any pointers in the right direction would be greatly appreciated!

This may be belaboring the obvious, but have you double checked the trans fluid level? Usually low fluid can result in sluggish or sloth-like auto transmission operation. This usually affects all gears, but from personal experience with a Borg Warner65 unit, the reverse seemed more sensitive to low fluid level than the other gears.

It is unclear from your description whether the vehicle had been sitting for a long period, or the general condition of the transmission. It goes without saying that with all auto transmissions, fluid condition is important, both as an indicator of the transmission's condition as well as decent transmission operation. If a transmission has seen severe or lengthy service, it is also possible that the filter is plugged, which may also affect operation. Yes, pulling the pan is required.


autobooks_manual_076.jpg
 
Also..

If you need another auto transmission I'm sure there are plenty on the forum that could send you one for the cost of shipping, unless they're all used as anchors by now. As soon as I have my 5 speed conversion done I would be happy to donate mine. It works perfectly and has had fluid/filter changes as I needed to run the car around for a couple of weeks before I tore it apart :)

Peter C
 
Will do

Sorry- I'll get the specs tonight. The trans came out of a 1974 if that helps but I'll get the info after work and post later today.
 
Trans ID for possible fix

There should be an ID plate affixed or markings to/on the side of the trans.
 
Fluid levels checked.

The fluid level was a bit on the low side. I have now topped it off with factory recommended gear fluid. However, this does not seem to have solved my problem. During this Proccess I dropped the pan and cleaned the filter. The oil is a bit on the dark side. But I wouldn't say it's extremely black. Either way, when all was re-assembled reverse was still not working. Other gears are still sluggish. It's also worth noting that there are no grinding sounds taking place what so ever. There were no fragments in the drained fluid either.

This car has been sitting for the better part of 10years when I got a hold of it a month back. It only has 58 thousand miles on it. I'll have to check the transmission type a little later. But I'll get back to you on that.
 
Just wondering, do you have records or proof on the mileage? The mileage reported on the title in CA does not count, it can not be validated. Good luck.
 
For a time, some time ago, I had a garage find '74 2002A. Got it for next to nothing, it was pretty beat but was easily made to run fine. Having very little invested, I flogged it a bit, to the end result that reverse finally "quit". No reverse, no way.

I looked about and figured that if it was broke, there was nothing to lose by tinkering. I removed the drive shaft and giubo, found that my 30 mm socket would only just get the output flange nut off, and voila, off came the flange. Next, the final housing, about six inches long, it's illustrated in the cutaway above. Inside that final housing is a piston (see the cutaway again, piston on top and inside final housing) that somehow controls reverse. The piston must slide freely; mine had a near-microscopic burr that only just barely hung up the piston. I used 400 grit wet sandpaper to clean up the piston; reassembled and all was well as long as I had the car thereafter.

YMMV, but if fluid and filter are found in good shape, that's where I'd go next. Note that not all 30 mm sockets can reach. You ought to have a deep thinwall socket, although mine was standard Craftsman issue and took some light tapping to seat on the flange nut.

If the trans is otherwise sluggish, suggest it will loosen up after some running, heat cycling, and fluid/filter replacement. We live in hope to hear of your success.
 
here is the trans

Don't know if it's what you need but when my conversion is done (4 weeks) it's yours for the shipping. I can also send from my warehouse as I have allot of trucking accounts and it will likely be around 100.00 depending on where you are.

Good luck!
 

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Update

I purchased the car from a friend. Her father bought it then passed away 2 years later. She then drove it intermittently until 1999. After which it has just been sitting under a cover in her drive way until I purchased it from her.

As for the tranny. Now correct me if I'm wrong. But, it appeared that the problem was less with the tranny and more with the brakes. (however, im not sure how much longer the tranny will be usable. The PO indicated she parked it because the dealersh ip informed her it was starting to give way...im not sure what to think...) The calipers appeared to have seized in a strong compression on the rotors. So while the drive position was able to overcome the brake power. The reverse selection was not. once I got the calipers off. Which was not small feat. And had the car up on stands, it rolled through all the gears with relative ease. Now well see if it's that easy once I get the brakes reinstalled.
 
AT Shift Lever

One final question. The shift lever from reverse to drive all seem to be achieved in one fluid motion. This seems odd to me. Should there be notches that correctly click as you transition the lever through differ gears? What I'm trying to say is the difference between drive, neutral, and reverse is just me slightly pushing forward on the lever. I don't have to use the button at all on the lever itself. Is this normal? If it is, it doesn't seem like the best set up. One could accidentally shift the car into another gear whilst driving.
 
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