Today, my car died on the way home; barely made it off the street and was lucky to get it in an empty parking lot as it coasted to a stop. I'm hoping this may be a straightforward battery issue but wanted to get the groups thoughts before proceeding. My car sat for about a month (forgot to put my battery tender on it). It required a jump to get started, but drove ok for a few days. Then, i had an issue with the hazard switch; the switch would come on by itself. Separate issue, but drained my battery on two occasionsP. Put the battery on the tender and all seemed ok; car would start without issue. However, last few days anything associated with the electrical system didn't seem to function at 100%; windows went up and down extra slow, lights seemed dimmer. Two days ago the red light would come on in the dash when the car was first started, but would go out after a few seconds. Today, the car started ok the first time, but the second time I started it (when it died on the way home), it was hesitant to start, like it didn't have enough power. Alternator is newer (2012 ish) as are belts. Battery is newer as well ( maybe same year). Hoping I just drained the battery one too many times. Thoughts? Thanks.
Battery issue
- Thread starter WALTER
- Start date
you should have the battery tested to determine whether it is toast before you start diving into replacing / fixing other things.
Thanks, will try that. Forgot to mention that the car fired up as soon as I jumped it; didn't even take a minute. But when I hit a small bump on my way into the garage, the power cut out abruptly. Hopefully not a short somewhere.
i would check your primary grounds to see if you have a cracked wire - shutting down when going over a bump is very suspicious
When the car is running, check the output from the alternator with a VOM. It should be around 14 volts, and the voltage across the battery should be nearly that. IF not above 12 volts, the alternator may need service/replacement.
jmackro
Well-Known Member
That sounds like a loose connection, not a weak battery. A weak battery will not cause a car to suddenly quit while you are driving. In fact, once your car is running, you can disconnect the battery and the alternator will keep the car running (I know, this isn't a smart thing to do.)
The battery may have been damaged by the repeated discharges, but I don't see how it could cause your car to suddenly quit.
I agree with previous posts: Check alternator output voltage, condition of grounds. I would also look at the wiring around the coil - anything loose?
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And the loose connection could be preventing proper charging
Thanks for the feedback. I will start with the condition of the battery by taking it to a shop. Right now I'm just struggling trying to get it out of the trunk because the connections are hard to reach with the rear strut brace/battery tray in the way.
Walter,
Several of us highly recommend you check the other things we mentioned before you remove the battery - ESPECIALLY since it is hard to get out. The other things are easily accessible and easy to do. IF you don't have a VOM (Voltage Ohm Meter), buy one, It is a mandatory tool in every classic car owners tool box!
Gary
Several of us highly recommend you check the other things we mentioned before you remove the battery - ESPECIALLY since it is hard to get out. The other things are easily accessible and easy to do. IF you don't have a VOM (Voltage Ohm Meter), buy one, It is a mandatory tool in every classic car owners tool box!
Gary
Honolulu
Well-Known Member
This list offers high quality advice!
Start the car then check the voltage at the battery terminals using a voltmeter. You should get at least 12.9v at the terminals. If you get a low reading then you probably need a new alternator.
Walter,
By the way, if you don't have a VOM, and there is a Harbor Freight near you, they have them for <$10. Sometimes there is even a coupon in magazines etc. that will get you one free as long as you buy one item (even a97 cent paint brush!
By the way, if you don't have a VOM, and there is a Harbor Freight near you, they have them for <$10. Sometimes there is even a coupon in magazines etc. that will get you one free as long as you buy one item (even a97 cent paint brush!
Will do guys thanks. Going to check it out today
Walter -- one other thing. You mention the hazard switch. There is a piece in there that gets bent out of shape, and when it does this switch comes on by itself and the hazards lights blink until the battery is dead. This happened to my car when it was being shipped; it arrived home to me with a dead battery.
You would need to pull the switch apart to fix it, but it sounds like you rely on others to keep your car up. Unless your shop gets down to this level of detail, I suggest you might want to consider connecting up with the retired mechanic helps a bunch of local coupe guys. He's a coupe owner, and a good guy. Send me a pm if you are interested and I will arrange an introduction.
You would need to pull the switch apart to fix it, but it sounds like you rely on others to keep your car up. Unless your shop gets down to this level of detail, I suggest you might want to consider connecting up with the retired mechanic helps a bunch of local coupe guys. He's a coupe owner, and a good guy. Send me a pm if you are interested and I will arrange an introduction.
Took the battery out and went to Autozone for testing. 9.3 volts and no charge. They charged the battery and I reinstalled. Car fired right up...but the red light in the dash was on and bright. I gave the car a little blip on the throttle and the red light went out. It did; however, look like the there might have been a faint glow. I put the battery on the trickle charger. Tomorrow I'll get that VOM and check the alternator.
jmackro
Well-Known Member
Odd that it required a blip of the throttle to get the alternator to begin chargning. I've had that happen when the bulb in the warning light was burned out, or had too high a resistance (like when I put an LED bulb in that location). I suppose a problem in the alternator or regulator could also produce this symptom.
A simple thing to do is to repeat the test after dark. Then you'll be able to tell for sure whether the light is glowing or it's just sunlight reflecting off the lens.
If the warning light really is glowing you don't need to measure the voltage at the battery - a glowing light is a sure indicator of a failing charging system. It's worth owning a VOM, and it can't hurt to measure the battery voltage with the engine running, but if the warning light is on (even faintly) then you have problems other than the battery.
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Replace the brushes in the Alt, $20 and 10 minutes of effort. Typical symptom of a failing Alt when red light glows faintly.
I didn't have a chance to get the VOM today, but I had to move the car and more interesting things happened. The battery was left on the tender overnight and was reading 100%. I turned the car on (no red light) and had it running for maybe 2 minutes while I moved it from one space to the other. When I put the battery back on the tender the reading was 50% charge. Could a single start and 2 minutes of running drain the battery that much?
Your battery is dying
Chris is exactly correct- it's shot