Battery issue

Walter -- you mention that the battery is "newish", having been replaced in 2012. In general, the useful life of a battery is about four years. For this reason alone, you need to replace your batter. In addition, many places that replace batteries will check your alternator for you when they do the install. Have this done to ensure your alternator is working properly.

After you have this done, Check the ground cable on the battery on both ends, paying particular attention to any corrosion where the cables connect. If the cable itself is corroded (look for green corrosion in the wires near the ends), replace it. I have actually run a set of spare ground cables on my car, one from the alternator to the block and another from the connection on the block for the alternator ground to the place where my battery ground is connected to the front fender.

Lastly, don't neglect the hazard switch as it will drain the battery without your knowledge, potentially killing a new battery. Either get another one or determine how to get yours fixed.
 
Walter -- you mention that the battery is "newish", having been replaced in 2012. In general, the useful life of a battery is about four years. For this reason alone, you need to replace your batter. In addition, many places that replace batteries will check your alternator for you when they do the install. Have this done to ensure your alternator is working properly.

After you have this done, Check the ground cable on the battery on both ends, paying particular attention to any corrosion where the cables connect. If the cable itself is corroded (look for green corrosion in the wires near the ends), replace it. I have actually run a set of spare ground cables on my car, one from the alternator to the block and another from the connection on the block for the alternator ground to the place where my battery ground is connected to the front fender.

Lastly, don't neglect the hazard switch as it will drain the battery without your knowledge, potentially killing a new battery. Either get another one or determine how to get yours fixed.

If I have done 3000 miles in this car since 2012 I would be shocked. I've been pretty good about using a battery tender up until a few months ago. So I figured that the battery has had a pretty easy life

No corrosion noted; however, there is whitish powdery substance on the battery tray. No leaks observed on the battery, this could have been from the previous battery.

I have rigged the hazard in such a way that it cannot activate. Will be taking the hazard out to see if there is anyway it can be fixed; if not, I'll get a new one.

Where do I connect up the VOM to the alternator for testing? Thanks.
 
I have been unpleasantly surprised at how quickly my batteries deteriorate. Obviously, your results may vary.

You can use the positive battery post for testing both with the car running and without. The reading without the car running will be the battery only reading. The reading with the car running will be the alternator output. Obviously, if you see the alternator light, report back.

The hazard can be fixed, and the fix is relatively simple. That said, you need to be very patient with the tabs that have to be pressed outward in order to open up the switch. I did mine, but I cannot remember exactly what needed to be modified inside the switch in order to fix the problem. Maybe someone else here knows.
 
I have been unpleasantly surprised at how quickly my batteries deteriorate. Obviously, your results may vary.

+1
Always replace the battery first if you have strange electrical behaviours in your car, just to be sure, no matter how new the battery in the car might be.
A faulty battery can act up in many ways, making you believe it has to be something more complex than "just the battery". I've been there several times..
 
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