Belt Molding Fasteners

TILLA

TILLA

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This came up on another topic (my error going off on a tangent) but I thought it important enough to start a new thread. The bolts that attach the aluminum (aluminium :lol: ) belt molding rust and swell up into the molding and usually snap off and I'm looking into having someone produce them in stainless steel. The part number is 51 13 5 780 108 and the dealer list is $1.34 USD, there are 45 required per car so replacing them during a restoration or repaint (respray) would run ~ $60.00.

My question to everyone - is there an interest out there to have them made and what would everyone think would be a reasonable price for them.

Mark

2007_0423Image0001-1.jpg
 
I think having them done in SS is a great idea.

There's a fellow that goes by the moniker of RIMSPOKE (all caps is his doing, not mine) on the 2002faq.com board that used to supply SS fasteners for the 2002 belt trim. They were well done and relatively inexpensive. I'd guess he would be able to source something for the E9's.

Another place that could benefit from SS are the clips that hold the rubber strips to the bumpers- they always seem to be a rusted mess! I'm sure there are other places/applications for SS products on an E9 as well.
 
Definitely! There is probably only one or two on the dear old bucket that I would risk using again so put me down for a full set!
Malc
 
I'd be very keen for a set or two also. As well as that any other model specific fasteners that could be usefully made in stainless. I love the stuff!
 
Well this is encouraging, I'm wondering if anybody has any other ideas on spares that we could benefit by purchasing as a group.

Any thoughts?
 
s/s molding bolts--number required--

I seem to remember that 49 bolts and special nuts with rubber washers were required for the set--am I off there?

also wondered if s/s nuts would be a good idea--so to have matching materials
 
Close enough, RealOEM.com calls for 45. You are right on the mark as far as the nuts, they have an integral metal washer and rubber washer that attaches to it. The problem with using stainless nuts with stainless bolts is galling - not to get too deep into metallurgy - stainless is dependent on a thin oxide layer to prevent corrosion, when you put two stainless pieces together, they will gall or pit, I was thinking if we could get these bolts made out of stainless we could use stainless washers and locknuts with either an anti-seize compound or a removable Loctite.
 
Maybe 45 but you still need 60!
You're forgetting the ones you drop, loose in the sills, suffer from the "I put them down somewhere" syndrome :wink:
Malc
 
Point taken, I'm sure there is a correlation to one of Murphy's Laws that postulates the smaller the part, the more places it can end up in.

Mark
 
Dropped nuts and screws--Malc your comment

was one I was tempted to quote but restrained myself--s/s parts are tough to retrieve with a magnet.

VERY IMPORTANT RULE--trust that what I offer is from experience in re-installation--intended especially for first time belt trim re-installers after fresh paint job--you will be tempted to snug the nut on each of the bolts--

BUT DON'T TIGHTEN THAT NUT AS TIGHT AS YOU THINK IT SHOULD BE!!

Why you ask--because the edges of our trim is very sharp and with fresh paint and flexing body the trim edge will cut into your fresh paint thus marring the intent of new paint.

How to avoid--allow time for paint to cure--install trim late in re-assembly of coupe--use socket but NO RATCHET OR DRIVER--finger tight is enough!! I do wish there was someone to have shared this pearl of experience with me as I could have avoided the problem described above.
 
Re: Dropped nuts and screws--Malc your comment

TAG for later... when I need it.

was one I was tempted to quote but restrained myself--s/s parts are tough to retrieve with a magnet.

VERY IMPORTANT RULE--trust that what I offer is from experience in re-installation--intended especially for first time belt trim re-installers after fresh paint job--you will be tempted to snug the nut on each of the bolts--

BUT DON'T TIGHTEN THAT NUT AS TIGHT AS YOU THINK IT SHOULD BE!!

Why you ask--because the edges of our trim is very sharp and with fresh paint and flexing body the trim edge will cut into your fresh paint thus marring the intent of new paint.

How to avoid--allow time for paint to cure--install trim late in re-assembly of coupe--use socket but NO RATCHET OR DRIVER--finger tight is enough!! I do wish there was someone to have shared this pearl of experience with me as I could have avoided the problem described above.
Click to expand...

THANK YOU!
 
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