Best budget engine + trans swap for E9? M30B35 and Getrag 260? Years?

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dubiousgarage

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Hi, after years of looking I just got lucky and found 1970 2800cs project. It hasn’t run in 10 years, I’m assessing it but guessing it’s going to need enough engine work that I should considering investing in a swap. Goal is a reliable daily driver (not optimizing HP).
What’s the best budget swap?
- A late M30? M30B35?
- Getrag 260 5speed?

Any particular years to target for engines and transmissions to best compatibility with an E9?

- M30B35? Do I want Vanos or not?

- Getrag 260/6? Or older one due to ?no speed sensor on a e34?

Does the donor car need to be a manual or will an automatic work? Is ECU / wiring harness different? Harder or easier to adapt?

Much thanks!
Instagram @dubiousgarage
 
A rebuilt m30b28 is a sweet motor, 9.0:1. If going for more hp and torque the m30/b35 is your motor, 9.0:1, 208hp, 220 or so lbs of torque. You need to look for a Getrag 265/6 OD trans, the 260 has no speedo drive, no separate bell housing, not desirable. Use the search functions, tons of info for your request.
 
dubiousgarage said:
Hi, after years of looking I just got lucky and found 1970 2800cs project. It hasn’t run in 10 years, I’m assessing it but guessing it’s going to need enough engine work that I should considering investing in a swap. Goal is a reliable daily driver (not optimizing HP).
What’s the best budget swap?
- A late M30? M30B35?
- Getrag 260 5speed?

Any particular years to target for engines and transmissions to best compatibility with an E9?

- M30B35? Do I want Vanos or not?

- Getrag 260/6? Or older one due to ?no speed sensor on a e34?

Does the donor car need to be a manual or will an automatic work? Is ECU / wiring harness different? Harder or easier to adapt?

Much thanks!
Instagram @dubiousgarage
Click to expand...
You might be surprised with your original engine if you recommission it correctly. It doesn't take much to find out.
 
HB Chris said:
A rebuilt m30b28 is a sweet motor, 9.0:1. If going for more hp and torque the m30/b35 is your motor, 9.0:1, 208hp, 220 or so lbs of torque. You need to look for a Getrag 265/6 OD trans, the 260 has no speedo drive, no separate bell housing, not desirable. Use the search functions, tons of info for your request.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the getrag 265 suggestion. (Yes there’s a ton of stuff out there but surprisingly few clear suggestions and a lot about M engines or 54’s that are above my budget or complexity.)
 
Rek said:
You might be surprised with your original engine if you recommission it correctly. It doesn't take much to find out.
Click to expand...
“correctly” is the concern. I can replace engines but rebuilds are out of my skill set and very expensive with concerned about corrosion in the block etc.
 
If you don’t need new pistons a good machine shop will do it with rings, bearings and chains for around $3K i would think.
 
The M30 engines were very robust - just because one sat for a decade doesn't mean you need to throw it away. You should have someone evaluate the condition of your engine before you decide which way to go.
 
Yep, as seems evident here, you are not after some all out performance upgrades, so just seek out a proper evaluation of what you have. Then you can make a plan to renovate and will probably be quite happy with the result! There will be twists and turns, and everything takes longer than you want, but that is why we are here! Good luck and do keep us updated. ;) . Wait...you are in SFBay area, well, I know where I would go for an evaluation! Mike
 
M30 engines never came with vanos. I’m assuming you are talking about swapping to the later m50 range of engines. I’d wager that this group will tell you that this reaLLC isn’t the best road to travel down for an e9. You will want the low down torque of the m30 engine, and it’s one of the most durable and easy to work on all around good engines. It’s a bit heavy and that’s the only negative I see. I’d recommend you look into the b35 swap and a move to motronic 1.3. This is the best all around system and greatest bang for the buck.plus it’s virtually trouble free and gets rid of the carbs (to me this is a great thing). It’s what I’m doing to my 2800. I suggest you reach out to Sfdon. He can help and guide you in this.
 
dubiousgarage said:
“correctly” is the concern. I can replace engines but rebuilds are out of my skill set and very expensive with concerned about corrosion in the block etc.
Click to expand...
Recommissioning an engine is not taking it apart and rebuilding ity. Make sure the engine turns easily adding suitable temporary lubricant to the bores. Make sure there is sufficient oil, a spark and clean fuel flowing. Then turn the engine without a spark for a while, then add the spark. Let it get hot and see what it's like.

Mine had been sitting for 10 years half outside. The fuel tank was full of gunge and the pump was gunged up too. Turning the engine adding fuel to the carbs and the engine started and ran well first time.
 
Rek said:
Recommissioning an engine is not taking it apart and rebuilding ity. Make sure the engine turns easily adding suitable temporary lubricant to the bores. Make sure there is sufficient oil, a spark and clean fuel flowing. Then turn the engine without a spark for a while, then add the spark. Let it get hot and see what it's like.

Mine had been sitting for 10 years half outside. The fuel tank was full of gunge and the pump was gunged up too. Turning the engine adding fuel to the carbs and the engine started and ran well first time.
Click to expand...
Re-commissioning the fuel system is important as @Rek indicates.

There are good reasons to keep your original engine as @HB Chris and @Ohmess have said, and equally good reasons to pivot to a newer M30/B35. A good place to start is to see if your old engine runs well to know what you have. If it still runs well with no smoke and reasonable compression, then you may decide to invest your $$'s elsewhere (on the car of course).
 
i will echo the beauty of the 2800cc engine. they are higher compression engines and rev similar to the 3.0csi engine. add a schrick cam while the engine is apart, update the exhaust and refresh the carbs (or go to triples) and enjoy.

if the 2.8L isn't salvageable the m30 b35 is the easiest to find option ... the other options are the m90 and the euro b34 ... do NOT buy a m30b34 USA engine (low compression / boat anchor). if you go this route, since you are in the SFO area ... make one call to @sfdon in Alameda as he is the best e9 guy anywhere near you. i live in atlanta and he was the best e9 guy near me. one more thing, he can help you with the change to a getrag 265 as well.
 
The same caution to use before changing out the 2800, I'd use before changing out the 4 speed. The stock transmission and rear end were matched to the torque curve of the engine. They ran on the autobahn at 90 MPH all day. I do not find myself reaching for another gear in my 4 speed Bavaria. I would wait until the car is running and driving well and experience the 4 speed...AND determine just how you will be using the car. Daily driver with lots of long road trips, or Sunday driver to local car shows and back road cruising?
 
bluecoupe30! said:
Yep, as seems evident here, you are not after some all out performance upgrades, so just seek out a proper evaluation of what you have. Then you can make a plan to renovate and will probably be quite happy with the result! There will be twists and turns, and everything takes longer than you want, but that is why we are here! Good luck and do keep us updated. ;) . Wait...you are in SFBay area, well, I know where I would go for an evaluation! Mike
Click to expand...
Yes in Sf Bay Area, who do you like?
 
Dick Steinkamp said:
The same caution to use before changing out the 2800, I'd use before changing out the 4 speed. The stock transmission and rear end were matched to the torque curve of the engine. They ran on the autobahn at 90 MPH all day. I do not find myself reaching for another gear in my 4 speed Bavaria. I would wait until the car is running and driving well and experience the 4 speed...AND determine just how you will be using the car. Daily driver with lots of long road trips, or Sunday driver to local car shows and back road cruising?
Click to expand...
Daily reliable driver with low frequent fiddling.
 
All, I appreciate the support to save the original engine. I’m working to access that. At the same time I want to start researching what the most reliable, reasonably priced swaps that will produce a car requiring the highest possible reliability and least fiddling.

What is the best wholistic engine + tranny swap with model numbers? (And diff if that’s required but I hope not).

I’d love details as the looking process for older low mileage donors is long and much patience required.

Much Thanks!
 
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