t-spoon
Member
I have a 72 3.0CS that my father purchased new in Germany in November of 1971. I am planning to have the saddle color leather seats redone and would like to hear recommendations for shop that can do a very authentic job.
yep ... its a wide range ... and it can be that variable, in fact it can be more than my top number.
my concern with dynamat has always been the large amount of weight that it adds to the car ... and the thickness makes carpet and other finish materials not fit so well. you could easily put several hundred pounds of dynamat in a coupe. anybody in the know of a better way to go about this that isn't so heavy?
yep ... its a wide range ... and it can be that variable, in fact it can be more than my top number.
my concern with dynamat has always been the large amount of weight that it adds to the car ... and the thickness makes carpet and other finish materials not fit so well. you could easily put several hundred pounds of dynamat in a coupe. anybody in the know of a better way to go about this that isn't so heavy?
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Scott hit the nail on the head but I have to add factoring the carpet underlay.
I've had success using FatMat. It's a little thinner while blocking heat transfer and providing some sound deadening. When coupled with the carpet underlay, it has worked well for me but I've been doing my own install and there is a lot of trimming, and in many instances recreation, design and/or production. You cannot be afraid to cut, even on kits from the usual suspects.
You must take note of where you remove the factory sound deadening, i.e., the contours. The sound deadening on the vertical of rear seat panel can be retained. In some spaces, carpet underlay will need to be doubled. If you are putting in any type of sound system, you have to factor sound deadening on those panels and fitment (trim, trim, trim).
The downside of doing your own trimwork is obvious, if you mess up, you must purchase more material and commission new work. I've purchased roles of material to ensure color consistency. I learned the hard way doing my Buick. I bought two carpet sets and had to go to my upholsterer to save me when I just couldn't get something. Ten years later, my coupes have benefitted from my attention to detail. I love doing my own work (mechanical, eh) and it's fun but you've got to be limber (I'm not - neurological condition), take your time, and have great patience.
Price points in NYC and LI are all over the place but typically on the higher end when vendors see a clean car, quality materials, and/or detailed work is commissioned, which is anything beyond stapling vinyl on a bar stool.
How about sealing the inside of the cab prior to the Matt install(floors and fire wall) with Bed liner material of like, to seal out fumes if any that permeate from older cars.View attachment 30986 View attachment 30987 View attachment 30988
Scott hit the nail on the head but I have to add factoring the carpet underlay.
I've had success using FatMat. It's a little thinner while blocking heat transfer and providing some sound deadening. When coupled with the carpet underlay, it has worked well for me but I've been doing my own install and there is a lot of trimming, and in many instances recreation, design and/or production. You cannot be afraid to cut, even on kits from the usual suspects.
You must take note of where you remove the factory sound deadening, i.e., the contours. The sound deadening on the vertical of rear seat panel can be retained. In some spaces, carpet underlay will need to be doubled. If you are putting in any type of sound system, you have to factor sound deadening on those panels and fitment (trim, trim, trim).
The downside of doing your own trimwork is obvious, if you mess up, you must purchase more material and commission new work. I've purchased roles of material to ensure color consistency. I learned the hard way doing my Buick. I bought two carpet sets and had to go to my upholsterer to save me when I just couldn't get something. Ten years later, my coupes have benefitted from my attention to detail. I love doing my own work (mechanical, eh) and it's fun but you've got to be limber (I'm not - neurological condition), take your time, and have great patience.
Price points in NYC and LI are all over the place but typically on the higher end when vendors see a clean car, quality materials, and/or detailed work is commissioned, which is anything beyond stapling vinyl on a bar stool.
This is a gorgeous interiro! Red it isJuan Ortiz.
But truth be know it really depends on the quality of parts you supply to the upholsterer. New leather and beat up brightwork will only yield disappointing results.
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