Best shop for upholstery?

t-spoon

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I have a 72 3.0CS that my father purchased new in Germany in November of 1971. I am planning to have the saddle color leather seats redone and would like to hear recommendations for shop that can do a very authentic job.
 
you have options if you are in California. there is Coupeking's upholsterer or Juan Ortiz if you are down south ... and i know SFDon has sung the praises of a guy up near him.
 
Rex,

i would talk directly to the shops ... first, if you are doing a color change, you will be affecting door panels, armrests and seats ... a lot more complicated, but that might just be a spray with a matching vinyl paint ... but there is a cost there.
second, it has a lot to do with the material that you select ... there are different leather grades that have varying costs. it could be $5k, it could be $10k.
 
Hello all. I have been able to work first hand with Mauro, ( correct spelling ), who is in Alameda, close to Don. I have been impressed with his attention to detail. On my Granatrot CSI he basically did the whole interior except for cleaning up the seats. This included dash, under panel, doors, carpets, hat rack et al. I am very happy with the results. Next week my son's car goes in to have its interior tlced. I will organize some pictures to post of his work. Cheers, Tim.
 
Ren Sport, that's a wide band in pricing, but i did ask a vague question. Thanks!

since we're on the subject of interior, is anyone installing sound proofing matts under the carpet? Dynamat or like kind material.
 
yep ... its a wide range ... and it can be that variable, in fact it can be more than my top number.

my concern with dynamat has always been the large amount of weight that it adds to the car ... and the thickness makes carpet and other finish materials not fit so well. you could easily put several hundred pounds of dynamat in a coupe. anybody in the know of a better way to go about this that isn't so heavy?
 
yep ... its a wide range ... and it can be that variable, in fact it can be more than my top number.

my concern with dynamat has always been the large amount of weight that it adds to the car ... and the thickness makes carpet and other finish materials not fit so well. you could easily put several hundred pounds of dynamat in a coupe. anybody in the know of a better way to go about this that isn't so heavy?


I know there's alternative materials and substitute that are a lot lighter and come close in sound deadening, but I haven't played with any of them. Weight is a concern, but enjoying with added comforts is more important to me.
 
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FYI, I asked World Up a year ago for the price for the leather for the front and rear seats on an e9. Quote was $2400 for the assembled leather only. Plus shipping if necessary

If you do the work yourself, that's the starting point. If not, you obviously have to add labor. My guess is that would start at about a grand just for the seats.
 
i have world uph kits on my coupe (from a previous owner), i can tell you that it is NOT easy to get the plucks into the seat bottom / seat back with their kit. i have been trying to adjust the installation while taking the seat apart to fix the mechanical parts of the seat (locking and recline). i am also not enamored with the quality of their leather.

my guess is that the installation for the fronts and backs will be more than 1k ... the work is going to add up on fluffing all of the seats to build them up where the horsehair has turned to dust. then you have the rear armrests to deal with ... unless the leather is a perfect match. that work is purely custom.
 
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Here are some pictures.
 
Juan Ortiz.


But truth be know it really depends on the quality of parts you supply to the upholsterer. New leather and beat up brightwork will only yield disappointing results.


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so i have an upholstery question as to which way is correct. at the top of the front seats, i have seen the corners done 2 different ways. in Mike's interior it looks like the side and the back have been adhered to the seat and the corner flap is folded over the top ... but in looking again, perhaps its more like the tan seat below. in a pic of Stevehose's original blue leather, it looks to be the opposite. in the cloth seat that i just took apart, the corner was tucked down first and the side and back finished the corner. then the beige seat is a hybrid, the side is put down first, then the corner ... and then the back. to me, since i know Steve's is original, and it matched the original cloth seat i took apart ... i'm guessing this is correct. so ... i am asking all people with original cars to tell us what is on your car ... and those in the know to verify.

e9 - front seat tuck 2.jpg
e9 - front seat tuck 3.jpg
e9 - front seat tuck.jpg


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Mike, what kind of Petri hub is that, have never seen a 3-tiered one. Sorry for the hijack.
 
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yep ... its a wide range ... and it can be that variable, in fact it can be more than my top number.

my concern with dynamat has always been the large amount of weight that it adds to the car ... and the thickness makes carpet and other finish materials not fit so well. you could easily put several hundred pounds of dynamat in a coupe. anybody in the know of a better way to go about this that isn't so heavy?

Scott hit the nail on the head but I have to add factoring the carpet underlay.

I've had success using FatMat. It's a little thinner while blocking heat transfer and providing some sound deadening. When coupled with the carpet underlay, it has worked well for me but I've been doing my own install and there is a lot of trimming, and in many instances recreation, design and/or production. You cannot be afraid to cut, even on kits from the usual suspects.

You must take note of where you remove the factory sound deadening, i.e., the contours. The sound deadening on the vertical of rear seat panel can be retained. In some spaces, carpet underlay will need to be doubled. If you are putting in any type of sound system, you have to factor sound deadening on those panels and fitment (trim, trim, trim).

The downside of doing your own trimwork is obvious, if you mess up, you must purchase more material and commission new work. I've purchased roles of material to ensure color consistency. I learned the hard way doing my Buick. I bought two carpet sets and had to go to my upholsterer to save me when I just couldn't get something. Ten years later, my coupes have benefitted from my attention to detail. I love doing my own work (mechanical, eh) and it's fun but you've got to be limber (I'm not - neurological condition), take your time, and have great patience.

Price points in NYC and LI are all over the place but typically on the higher end when vendors see a clean car, quality materials, and/or detailed work is commissioned, which is anything beyond stapling vinyl on a bar stool.
 
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Scott hit the nail on the head but I have to add factoring the carpet underlay.

I've had success using FatMat. It's a little thinner while blocking heat transfer and providing some sound deadening. When coupled with the carpet underlay, it has worked well for me but I've been doing my own install and there is a lot of trimming, and in many instances recreation, design and/or production. You cannot be afraid to cut, even on kits from the usual suspects.

You must take note of where you remove the factory sound deadening, i.e., the contours. The sound deadening on the vertical of rear seat panel can be retained. In some spaces, carpet underlay will need to be doubled. If you are putting in any type of sound system, you have to factor sound deadening on those panels and fitment (trim, trim, trim).

The downside of doing your own trimwork is obvious, if you mess up, you must purchase more material and commission new work. I've purchased roles of material to ensure color consistency. I learned the hard way doing my Buick. I bought two carpet sets and had to go to my upholsterer to save me when I just couldn't get something. Ten years later, my coupes have benefitted from my attention to detail. I love doing my own work (mechanical, eh) and it's fun but you've got to be limber (I'm not - neurological condition), take your time, and have great patience.

Price points in NYC and LI are all over the place but typically on the higher end when vendors see a clean car, quality materials, and/or detailed work is commissioned, which is anything beyond stapling vinyl on a bar stool.
View attachment 30986 View attachment 30987 View attachment 30988

Scott hit the nail on the head but I have to add factoring the carpet underlay.

I've had success using FatMat. It's a little thinner while blocking heat transfer and providing some sound deadening. When coupled with the carpet underlay, it has worked well for me but I've been doing my own install and there is a lot of trimming, and in many instances recreation, design and/or production. You cannot be afraid to cut, even on kits from the usual suspects.

You must take note of where you remove the factory sound deadening, i.e., the contours. The sound deadening on the vertical of rear seat panel can be retained. In some spaces, carpet underlay will need to be doubled. If you are putting in any type of sound system, you have to factor sound deadening on those panels and fitment (trim, trim, trim).

The downside of doing your own trimwork is obvious, if you mess up, you must purchase more material and commission new work. I've purchased roles of material to ensure color consistency. I learned the hard way doing my Buick. I bought two carpet sets and had to go to my upholsterer to save me when I just couldn't get something. Ten years later, my coupes have benefitted from my attention to detail. I love doing my own work (mechanical, eh) and it's fun but you've got to be limber (I'm not - neurological condition), take your time, and have great patience.

Price points in NYC and LI are all over the place but typically on the higher end when vendors see a clean car, quality materials, and/or detailed work is commissioned, which is anything beyond stapling vinyl on a bar stool.
How about sealing the inside of the cab prior to the Matt install(floors and fire wall) with Bed liner material of like, to seal out fumes if any that permeate from older cars.
 
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