Best way to install front bumper?

sreams

sreams

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After my repaint, I'm finally at the point that I can install the front bumper (1972 3.0cs). I purchased new grommets for where the brackets go through the front body so that they would be flexible. What is the recommended way to get the four bolts in that go through the brackets under the car? I'm finding it difficult to pull the brackets away from the frame enough to be able to get the bolts in. Or... if the bolts are already in, it is still difficult to get the brackets over them. Any suggestions? Thanks.

-Scott
 
Hi Scott,
I just reinstalled my front bumper on my 72 CS this weekend. Here's what I did

0) If you haven't already detail you bumper, it's much easier to do it now resting on saw horses then when it's on the car

1) Install the rubber grommets (I assume the brackets are removed). I found that getting the bottom started by getting the lip to fit over the side and then rotating the grommet 90 degrees to line up in the proper direction was the easiest way to get those installed. I used a paint can opener to push and pull on parts of the grommet to get it seat properly. It is my go to tool for working with rubber seals.

2) Slide the brackets through the grommet, some soapy water will make them go in easier.

3) Push the brackets in as far as they will go with them angled down. Work the bolts through the holes in the bracket (they will fit) and then align the heads with the slots in the frame rail. Once aligned push back into position and loosely tighten the nuts.

4) Put some blue masking tape on the fenders in front of where the side bolts go to avoid scratching. Position a box or stand next to the fender that allows the curved part of the fender to rest while you position the bumper

5) With the bumper fully assembled installed by guiding bolts through the bracket avoiding hitting the fender with the sides of the bumper. When through rest the bumper side on the box to keep it from swinging down.

6) Loosely thread the nut on the bumper where it attaches to the bracket

7) Swing the bumper up to align the side mounting bolts and thread in the screw. You may need to push the bumper toward the car to make sure the bracket is seated fully, repeat for other side. Remove the blue tape

8) Tighten bolts and your done.
 
And be glad you aren't installing a 73 bumper! Ask Stan how we know. We needed a third person that we didnt even have.
 
Feont bumper--missing part--

is key for correct final step of installation--
for each bumper end you should have a small black seal that covers the bumper ends on 1970-1972 models and special end pads unique to 1973 models--none required for 1974 big bumper models--these seals necessary to cover the edges of the bumper end to provide a buffer for permanently providing paint and fender protection--no future risk then of scratches,etc.
 
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Hi Murray, You are correct the rubber seals should protect the paint but I'm a belt and suspenders kind if guy hence the blue tape :)
 
kurtd said:
Hi Scott,
I just reinstalled my front bumper on my 72 CS this weekend. Here's what I did

0) If you haven't already detail you bumper, it's much easier to do it now resting on saw horses then when it's on the car

1) Install the rubber grommets (I assume the brackets are removed). I found that getting the bottom started by getting the lip to fit over the side and then rotating the grommet 90 degrees to line up in the proper direction was the easiest way to get those installed. I used a paint can opener to push and pull on parts of the grommet to get it seat properly. It is my go to tool for working with rubber seals.

2) Slide the brackets through the grommet, some soapy water will make them go in easier.

3) Push the brackets in as far as they will go with them angled down. Work the bolts through the holes in the bracket (they will fit) and then align the heads with the slots in the frame rail. Once aligned push back into position and loosely tighten the nuts.

4) Put some blue masking tape on the fenders in front of where the side bolts go to avoid scratching. Position a box or stand next to the fender that allows the curved part of the fender to rest while you position the bumper

5) With the bumper fully assembled installed by guiding bolts through the bracket avoiding hitting the fender with the sides of the bumper. When through rest the bumper side on the box to keep it from swinging down.

6) Loosely thread the nut on the bumper where it attaches to the bracket

7) Swing the bumper up to align the side mounting bolts and thread in the screw. You may need to push the bumper toward the car to make sure the bracket is seated fully, repeat for other side. Remove the blue tape

8) Tighten bolts and your done.
Click to expand...


+1 a few pics

i would not use masking tape, wrapping a cloth around the bumpers corners would do the same effect, and you do not risk other secondary effects
http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8879
 
More protection

BMW used a specially made soft rubber protection between the fenders and the square metal part of the bumper (at each end where the M5?/10mm socket bolts are fastened). These were attached to the bumper ends, and are NLA, but I use self adhesive, black, semi soft sponge. Their purpose is to avoid metal against metal contact (you are an advocate of this principle Murray. Right?!?!).
Instead of blue tape on the fenders, I put a sock on each bumper end to avoid scratches. Even better is to have 2 assistants; one at each side, while you, the proud and expert owner manage the operation at the front.....
 
Thanks for the great input, everyone. I was making the mistake of leaving the brackets attached to the bumper. Installing them first made all the difference.

-Scott
 
One thing FOR SURE, the guy who designed the attachment of the front bumper brackets to the uni-body rails never worked in the auto body trade. It’s something that body men or mechanics would jokingly :lol: refer to as “Hitlers revenge” :lol:. Next time I have my front bumper off I’m going to weld threaded bungs into the rails and be done with that stupidity :shock:. ~ John Buchtenkirch
 
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Why would the '73 be so hard?

I would think the '73 would be easier to install than the '70-'72 due to the extra space available between the bumper and the body. Easier to get at bolts and such.

I did a bumper tuck on the front of my '73. Put the earlier shorter brackets in first, then mounted and adjusted the bumper to be straight. It was a bit difficult to get between the body and the inner bumper to tighten the attachment bolts, but not terrible.....
 
The 73 bumper brace is triangulated and needs to be installed on bumper first, then whole assembly mounted to car. Rear is pretty easy.
 
I'm about to take mine off to install a front air dam. I assume to remove it is the reverse of kurtd's description in post #2?

I remove the two bumpers and then the long curved section? Or can I take the whole assembly off at once? Which is easier?
 
If I undo these nuts, plus the ones on the fenders, will the bumper just pull off?

040520112261.jpg


040520112270.jpg


040520112273.jpg


040520112272.jpg


Where do these bolt into? I can't see where they go under the car. I'm assuming I leave them where they are

050520112284-1.jpg


Are there nuts 16mm?
 
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Yes, If you undo the two ends and the nut on each bracket the bumper will come off the car. There are two through bolts that hold each of the brackets to the frame in the front, if you pull the bolts out of these the will slide out. Ether way it is nice to have a second set of hands.

Once on the car, all of the nuts can be loosened and tightened to get everything striaght. Nothing like a droopy corner to make the whole car look bad.

Are you going to put the Bumper back on with the airdam?
And, BTW, that is a very clean looking bumper in the pictures... Nice.
 
Thanks for the info.

And yes, great pictures, shamelessly stolen from our resident detailed restorer DeQuincy.
 
Removal?

OK, I'm taking mine off. It's a '72 so it has the smaller bumpers. The bolt on the left one has now stripped out the square section so that when I turn the nut, it all just goes round and round. I've pushed the rubber over (probably to it's detriment) and can see the top of the carrage bolt holding the bumper to the L brackets.

So how to proceed? I can't get pliers onto the top of the carrage bolt, too close a fit. Drill a hole in it so I can put in a pin to hold it?

Any suggestions?
 
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