Best way to sell e9 these days?

taylorcom

taylorcom

Well-Known Member
Messages
257
Reaction score
29
Location
SF Bay Area
Hello, e9ers! It's been a good 40 years, but I'm thinking of selling my 1972 euro BMW 3.0CS as a running non-driving project (it has steering and clutch issues but starts and runs well).

Any advice on where to sell it is welcome. Thanks.

1752425497928.jpeg
 
i would tell you that spending a small amount of money to fix the steering / clutch issues will more than pay itself back. as well as putting on a turn signal lens. if you would rather just sell it 'as is', your best bet is right here on e9 coupe. post a FS thread in the classified section with a bunch of pictures and any information about the car and perhaps you can find a buyer. face it fjord is a very popular color. a lot about getting it sold is having a realistic asking price - the market is down about 20% from 2 years ago.

other than that, the most successful platform has been BaT, but if you do that, i would polish / clean the car up and get it to look as great as possible and fix all of the little things - and describe any flaws. then have really good photography - tons of pics of everything, including under the car and all of the usual rust spots.
 
eriknetherlands said:
In my humble opinion, I think the price difference of a project vs a running car is around 30%, but that may be my European view on e9's.
Click to expand...
Personally, I would want a larger discount on a car that I can't take for a test drive. Even if the engine idles and revs, its hard to evaluate the transmission, dif, driveshaft, suspension, brakes, and steering if you can't go around the block.
 
Yes, there are some “little things” to attend to. Here's the car's history since I bought it in 1985:

1972 BMW 3.0CS 4-speed

This vintage BMW coupe is a running, but not driving, project that needs clutch and steering work. It's a euro model, imported from Milan, and has had the same owner for the past 40 years. California registration is current and unencumbered.

Details:
Original throughout (with exception of differential, replaced in mid-90s)
4-speed manual transmission
Original 14″ alloy wheels are finished in silver, wear polished center caps with Roundels, and are mounted with 195/70 tires
Low miles for a '72 car w/ original motor: speedometer reads 60,050 kilometers, so that's probably 160,050 km (99,450 miles)
Runs well
Brakes maintained and all 4 disc calipers rebuilt and functioning, rear brake hoses replaced in 2022
1 owner since 1985
Former company car in Milan, Italy, so driven little and garaged
Importation docs available
Clean California title in seller’s name.
Original window-washer fluid reservoir available
Original metal coolant expansion tank available (needs seam re-welded)
AM/FM cassette player
Color: Fjord Blue exterior, navy vinyl interior
New paint and rust repair in '91
Body in good shape
No known accidents
Dark blue vinyl interior in good shape, with visible wear on driver seat only
Used as daily commuter in 1985-94, driven little since then
Original air conditioning system (not functional)
No oil or transmission or differential leakage
New clutch in April 1995

Needs:
Remove and replace broken bolt on steering box
Clutch not operative
Replace rear subframe bushings
Replace turn-signal/window-wiper switch
Replace thermostat (not critical)
Repair window regulator, right front
Replace hand-brake cables
Replace or weld muffler
Replace front left turn-signal lens
Renew tires (they have plenty of tread but are old)
Repair or replace coolant expansion tank, which has small leak
Repair jack support on front driver's side
 
Last edited:
"Former company car in Milan, Italy, so driven little and garaged" - I want to work for whoever you are working for.... :oops:

Ask for some feedback from the members for a reasonable price for this and throw it in the "for sale" thread. I think rsporsche had a good suggestion. I'm sure there will be some takers. If it's not drivable, I wouldn't put it up for sale on a site like BaT. Probably get more money here to the right person, plus you know it will be a good caretaker...

It's nice to see when someone throws the towel in and wants to move on instead of letting it "rot" away. Something to be said about that even though it's always a tough decision.

GLWS! Sorry you have to let her go! - S
 
is the last pic current or was that a pic before it was repaired? you have a couple of bubbles on the top of the fender, but not horrible.
 
question is, how is the firewall and floors? generally when the bottom of the fender / rocker is in that kind of shape, there is usually damage to the floor + firewall - deep inside.
 
taylorcom said:
They're fine.
Click to expand...
So ... the floor board on the driver side seems solid. It's covered with a rubbery thing so pics won't show the actual metal. As to the firewall, it's also covered, but here is what's visible there.
1752683105400.jpeg
1752683301698.jpeg
1752683556797.jpeg
1752683423060.jpeg


Per my fact sheet posted above, one of the Needs is to "Repair jack support on front driver's side" since it has given out, likely due to rust in that area.
 
best place to see the firewall is to open both gloveboxes and see what is there. what tends to happen is the windshield gasket leaks and the water goes down the inside of the firewall and it rusts from the inside. the alternative thing that affects the lower fender in front of the door is trapped dirt / water behind the front wheel.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top