Best wrench for bellhousing nuts?

[Stevehose]

For the hard to reach top 2 nuts, which is better, half-moon style or S-style wrench, and would a ratcheting version work or too tight in there? Also what is the size of the nuts? TIA

 

[Mike Goble]

The bolt head is 19mm. I took a old 3/8" drive 3/4" socket and ground it down to fit the space allowed. Basically this involves making it short and cone-shaped (grind off the shoulders around the square hole). I have a G265 tranny, so I removed the plug that's right by the upper d/s bolt and the socket fit right in.

 

[x_atlas0]

I used a S-wrench, no ratchet. The space was such that you had no room to ratchet anyway.

 

[mikes]

Bell Housing bolts

Steve,

Are you talking about the bolts that hold the transmission to the bellhousing or the ones that hold the bellhousing to the engine? Of the two, I had the most difficulty with the 13mm bolts at top of the bellhousing, one of which also captures the ground strap. I ended up heating a 13mm box end wrench to increase the bend angle and reaching down from the engine compartment; actually coming at the bolts from what would normally be the top side of the wrench.

 

[Stevehose]

Bellhousing to engine - I've done the tranny to bellhousing before no problems there. Have read about the difficulty of reaching the top ones. So are these 13mm or 19mm?

Are you talking about the bolts that hold the transmission to the bellhousing or the ones that hold the bellhousing to the engine?

 

[x_atlas0]

Bellhousing to engine - I've done the tranny to bellhousing before no problems there. Have read about the difficulty of reaching the top ones. So are these 13mm or 19mm?

The 19mm are the 4 nuts securing the bellhousing to the trans. Dropping the trans separately makes things a bit easier.

 

[sfdon]

I do a lot of these swaps- or at least clutch- at least one a month.
Driveshaft off the output flange
Tranny support off
Tranny hanging down
Use a 1/2 breaker bar reduced to 2 12" 3/8" extensions and then a 3" 3/8"extension- use the ones with beveled ends. Or- use your wobble piece.
Either use a light to see your work or feel for the part.
Once you break it loose- either a air or electric gun will finish it.

 

[Stevehose]

So Don you don't take the tranny off the bellhousing - you tilt the engine down to gain access and take tranny and housing off in one piece?

I do a lot of these swaps- or at least clutch- at least one a month.
Driveshaft off the output flange
Tranny support off
Tranny hanging down
Use a 1/2 breaker bar reduced to 2 12" 3/8" extensions and then a 3" 3/8"extension- use the ones with beveled ends. Or- use your wobble piece.
Either use a light to see your work or feel for the part.
Once you break it loose- either a air or electric gun will finish it.

 

[Sven]

I have done it both ways. But either way dropping the rear of the engine as far as possible helps a lot. The bottom of the engine will stop on the cross support (or if a remember correctly you may need to place a shim under the engine to keep the sharp corner of the block from resting on the steering center link). I have also loosened the engine mounts first. Keep an eye out for the clearance between the fan blade and radiator, it should be fine. With it dropped like this it is much easier to access the top bolts using the long extensions Don recommend.

The only problem I had with removing and installing the transmission separate from the bell housing is when getting it back on. Trying to position the trans, while engaging the clutch arm, keeping the spring around the post, and bearing were difficult (for the 4 spd trans).

 

[sfdon]

I cheat- I use a tranny jack.
The guy who taught me used to lie under the car and pull the tranny onto his chest and then stick it from there.
Too old for that now...