body painting

A

Andrew

Member
Messages
19
Reaction score
4
Location
New York, NY
Don't get excited. Coupe body painting. Glasurit (BASF) has been recommended to me as the way to go. Any words of wisdom/recommendations on paint manufacturer/type? Body has been stripped, prepped and is just about ready for the booth. Thanks in advance.
 
officially upper east side; otherwise, N. 6th Street in Newark, NJ, where coupe has been for past 2 1/2 years.
 
Glasurit is/was the original factory paint used on E-9's

and it has always been the paint applied to the BLUMAX--now three times and fifteen years since the last paint job--and people still comment on its appearance--Glasurit is a single stage paint and they recommend the use of their other material as well when re-painting--not cheap here in California--with thanks to the wild eyed environmentalists that habitate these parts--

with proper color sanding following application its appearance is outstanding. single stage will require a little more effort to keep it nice--when compared to a two stage with clear coat that gives the wet look.

with single stage there is a little surface porosity so--be sure to remove bird droppings quickly and avoid irrigation sprinklers followed by hot sunlight to bake in the crud--still--IMHO--single stage Glasurit gives a much richer look.
 
Glasurit
Is that a solvent or water based single stage (1 pack) paint?
Is it available as a metallic?
Is it basically a posh enamel paint?
Just wondering and keeping my options open concidering the ban on solvent based paints looming in the UK
Thanks
Malc
 
glasurit paint

solvent based--believe it was available in metallic--not just high end enamel--but before the curtain falls in the UK--go to quality auto paint store/supplier that has samples dating back to the 1960's and search out the materials now that you may need--the shelf life of the paint will extend well beyond the near term last availability of solvent based paint materials.
 
I have used Deltron 2 stage urethane now on three cars painted in my garage.

The most recent was my 73 Ford Bronco body-off resotration. I used DTM 2000 a direct to metal primer. Sprayed one coat, dry sanded with 400 grit, filled the few little remaining dings and then sprayed another coat. I dry sanded this with 400 as well, cleaned every thing 5 times and then sprayed the Deltron DBU base coat with an HVLP gun. I then cleareed it with Transtar urethane. The result was OK. No matter what you do, you will get orange peel and overspray (at least I do!). I just finished wet sanding the clear with 1500 grit, and the result is spectacular. Even without polish, you can see the optical clarity at a good reflecting angle. A little polishing this weekend and she will be like glass.

I'll post pics on Sunday.

Mettallics are hard in a single stage. I suspect it is very difficult to color sand without disrupting the metal. Solid colors, however, are, apparently better in single stage.

All of these paints are solven based. The primer is reduced with acetone, the DBU uses an activator reducer that has 1001 nasty hydrocarbons, and the clear uses both reducer (I think it's hexane) and an Iso-cyante catalyst..you n eed a fresh air respirator to spray this stuff (I use my other compressor to feed the respirator.

I hate the prep work, but I find painting cars a very satisfying activity.

S
 
respirators.... to clarify

a "fresh air respirator" is NOT one with filters. In filtered respirators, when you smell/taste whatever you're filtering, you simply change the filter. However, for TDI-thinned paints (toluene di-isocyanate) by the time you smell it, you're seriously screwed.

A painter with a brain, i.e. one who has used the proper respirator, will use a hood and a fan/compressor system. This way, there is no face-to-respirator seal to worry about; you don't have to be clean shaven; the respirator doesn't leak when you turn your head; and most importantly, there is always positive pressure inside the hood.

Don't quote me, but I think the hood type has a protection factor of 1,000, while I know that a little filtered unit has a PF of 10.

TDI is not something to laugh about. It'll kill you.
 
THe fresh air respirator I mentioned does what you are saying, with the exception of the face to respirator seal. SInc eit is being fed from a separate air source at positive pressure, if you do get a leak between the mask and your face it simply blows ait OUT.

The filter respirators are, as you said, useless. If you can smell whatever you are filtering, then the respirator is not helping you.

I painted my entire 73 Bronco using this external air respirator, and the only fumes I smelled were residual fumes in the "booth" after I was done, and went in 10 mins later to see my work.

This is in contrast to the first car I painted where iuseda nice little Binks filter respirator and stoped painting after about 5 mins.. I coudl tell this was bad juju..That's when I went and did some reading.

Toluene isn't good for you. But Di-Iso Cyanate is actually more allergic than toxic. It is the iso-cyanate that doesn't get filtered.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top