Body Strip tips for repair/paint + fender removal

[Andy the aussie]

full external strip taking place here , have started at the front , so far so good

any tips for particularly difficult parts will be very welcome

windscreens front and back - is it possible to get screen/rubber seal/ trim all out in one piece or do i have to cut the rubber ?

Roof/drip rail/seam trims - any tips ?

then onto fenders removal , they have never been off the car before and have not been messed with ,
for the joins at upper front panel and A-pillar/Screen whats the thoughts ?
best to make the cut exactly where the original join is or make a fresh incision ?

thanks for any pointers

andy.

 

[steve in reno]

Rubber glass trim is not available at this time, f&r. Must remove glass for removal, don't cut(you may need to reuse).
Rubber/ trim comes out after removal, and in rubber before reinstall.
See search for recent postings for rubber. MAY be in production????????
Rest of belt line trim is straight forward.

 

[zinz]

Front and rear glass rubber seals are currently available from several suppliers.

Be very careful with the aluminum lock strip for the front and rear glass it is very easily bent... and as stated, NLA.

Ed

 

[rsporsche]

you can get front + rear windshield rubber from W+N ... you can also get them from Connor at Vintage Autobahn. Connor's price is 265 for both, plus shipping. w+n is about 265 euro. i also checked with Connor, he has door rubber for 240 each.

 

[Markos]

I know it's possible, but I couldn't get my glass out without cutting the seal. It was just me working in an empty interior, and I had no real leverage. This was with the aluminum trim removed. My rubber wasn't reusable anyway. Now my project car, I could probably blow out the windscreen with a hard sneeze. You can see the glass move when you press on it from the inside.

 

[Andy the aussie]

Windscreen aluminium trims - I have dealt with these many times on my Volvo Amazons and are now fully schooled in treating them like gold - the stress on these things is also magnified by my location /cost of shipping and complete lack of spares..

Anything I break on my cars usually involves me closing the garage door so the neighbors don't see the tears

Which is why I'm asking the original question - the trims are very good and the rubbers look perfect and look like they could definitely be reused , while I'm generally thinking replace everything - I'm also experienced in brand new shiny windscreen seals that don't end up sealing as well as the ones I had just cut out

so - original windscreen strength is the question - are they strong or have people had them crack during an attempted removal ??

shipping a new screen is not a desirable option !

One thing I have on my side is its nice n hot here right now which will help the rubber - I removed most of the strut tower sound deadening yesterday in about three minutes, parked the car with bonnet up in the sun and hey presto,
it lifted right off - very pleased


A.

 

[Andy the aussie]

Front screen sorted............................

Decided to stop procrastinating and give it a crack ! (oops , bad pun)

Reclined the seats, positioned myself accordingly and a long controlled push while watching the inner lip of the rubber and out she came , nice and gently

Thats was stressful.... time to crack a beer !

 

[Andy the aussie]

Now that's done,

FENDER Removal......... the lower rear is free, most of the upper rail was a quick disconnect
I've got the front panel upper and lower area stripped of paint and can just trace the factory weld from the inside, so its cut time, just building myself up to it and a little reassurance always helps - anyone ?

the 'where to separate' is what I'm not sure of, particularly at the A pillar end !

might have to commit and actually start a project thread for this and share some pics.....

thanks for your input so far guys

A.

 

[Sven]

The back side of the A pillar has the rear portion of the fender spot welded to it. It is the piece that is folded into the back edge of the fender and is perpendicular. Obviously open or remove the door first.

I assume you don't have a new fender as a guide? The upper rear corner of the fender extends up the roof pillar a few inches and along the bottom of the window a bit. The attached photo shows were these two points end. Remove the lead and you should find some spot welds and some continuous welds to be cut/drilled. I found it a bit tricky. A smaller dremel cutting disked helped. There are more spot welds between these two points along the window edge.

Also, the lower front corner below the nose has a short section of spot welds. That one I remember as hard to get to.

 

[Andy the aussie]

thanks for your help guys..... all good n done so far
next couple of sticky bits,

door strap - is it a roll pin - do i just drift it out from underneath ?
door mirror - i think im on the right track but screw is not interested in moving - Grrr

 

[autowerks]

maybe WD-40 and wait, then retry it helps sometimes!

 

[autokunst]

might have to commit and actually start a project thread for this and share some pics.....

Yes please to the pics. This will help the knowledge wealth on the forum to respond to your questions more accurately, and also help those about to embark on the same steps now and in the future. Sounds like great work so far - fingers crossed that there are not too many surprised under the fenders.

 

[teahead]

https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/instructions-for-replacing-cs-fenders.6971/