Bodywork question

Peter Coomaraswamy

Peter Coomaraswamy

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It's getting that time for me to start preparing (looking for a shop) to do the body and paint on my "precious time vacuum". I have a pretty run-of-the-mill 1974 and it has the cut-outs for the front and rear markers. Lots of e9's I've seen on the forum do not have those marker lights and I like the cleaner look. Would anyone suggest that I have the holes fitted over or would you just leave it stock. It's going to be hard enough to put those mammoth bumpers back on :-(

Thanks,
 

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Definitely remove the side markers and consider going with pre-74 bumpers if you prefer the look, to do so now is easy because some body work is needed and will be a PITA if you decide to change later when it's all done.
 
Personally, I would delete the front, but retain the lighted rear red markers for symmetry and safety sakes. Just have a great fear of being broadsided at night out in a dark country road without any adequate rear marker identifying features.
 
Awesome folks

Thanks,

When I started this job I was enamored with the body of this car. Through the forum I learned (and am learning) about the beauty of the running gear, drive-train and its originality, which, with the exception of the 5-speed, I'm keeping pretty much as is.

It's good to hear that some of the body markers (bumpers/lights) are acceptable to change or retro-fit, so I think I will follow all the leads below, X- the front markers, do the pre 74 bumpers, but keep the rear markers.

BTW, I'm still working on my custom exhaust and I'll send some pics as I move along. It should all look stock coming out the rear, but will incorporate a custom piece between the down pipes and the exhaust tip.
 
Well

I agree with Bert, as usual, I deleted the front side markers and kept the rear. On bumpers for the '74, for sure ditch the diving boards. Body fill the rear shock pockets because the euro bumper is a straight bolt on show. The rear panel even has un-drilled dimples where the bolts line up. For the front....you can either replace the body work for the bar bumper mounts or use the Al of Comox system....patent pending....still available at the CoupeKing for little $$$ 12 1974 cars out there are happy with this for the front. I do not build these anymore. Once the CoupeKing sells his stock someone else needs to take over. The market is small.
 
The side markers are not stock, not original. These were DOT required. Leaving the rear markers on for safety and visual balance is a personal choice. Sadly, I forgot to have all four of mine removed when the car was repainted a few years ago. As for the bumpers, I second everything negative said above.
 
I also opted to leave on the rear marker lights on for night time safety. I removed the front reflectors but added small bulbs to the back half of the front parking / directional light housing so they are more apparent doing double duty as lighted side marker lights. I think eventually I’m going to add more bulbs to the tail lights to make them even more visible. So many projects & so little extra time for them :(. ~ John Buchtenkirch
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Thanks

John, super idea. A little extra work but what isn't on these cars. I have another couple of questions; first, does the stock fuel pump use any gaskets (where it attaches to the head) or does that block act as one as it's not metal, so it seems like it would seal. There were none on there when I removed it.

Second, on the picture below, the shift blocks are very loose. How should I address that.

Thanks,
 

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The fuel pump spacer block should have integral gaskets on each side already, they are not available separately in my experience.
 
An oil leak

waiting to happen will result. Thin paper gaskets are used on both sides of the phenolic spacer block.( sames as on the carbs originally)

Not difficult to make yourself. The block gets soaked in oil and the gaskets aren't readily discernable. Make sure you clean the old ones off.

If the studs were removed from the head, then they should be sealed using loctite since they are in direct contact with oil and will leak also.

If you're not careful, a leak develops, and you'll think the head gasket's going or gone.

On the shift bracket- it's available new $52. A trip to the Ace Hardware and you might find a nylon bushing for the disentigrated "silentbloc" rubber bushing. I used that fix on my a/c brackets.
 
bert35csi said:
Personally, I would delete the front, but retain the lighted rear red markers for symmetry and safety sakes. Just have a great fear of being broadsided at night out in a dark country road without any adequate rear marker identifying features.
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That gives me an idea to try a small piece of Silver retro reflective Tape on my rims. This stuff is far brighter than any side marker light when hit with a headlight. A spinning rim would look like a lit up circle at night.

Edit: I suppose that would only light you up once in the intersection and basically too late to make a difference if you already weren't noticed.
 
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Peter, as far as I know those shift blocks are available. I have seen them on Ebay. I replaced all the blocks on my Bavaria's Getrag and the shifting was like new after. I suggest a total shifter rebuild at this point...just like the rear suspension you have completed.
 
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Do the tower bushings (4), shift rod/linkage bushings (2 halves), shift rod inner rubber bushings (2 under the chrome), and the shifter ball joint (2 halves). Cheap and will make you smile with each shift.

I like the clean look with no reflectors per Europe - I don't think a small reflector is going to stop the drunk/texting broadside and I eye every intersection like I am on a motorcycle - necessary defense here in New Orleans.

Nicad said:
Peter, as far as I know those shift blocks are available. I have seen them on Ebay. I replaced all the blocks on my Bavaria's Getrag and the shifting was like new after. I suggest a total shifter rebuild at this point...just like the rear suspension you have completed.
Click to expand...
 
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