ES 1800 said:
I used the old push down the pedal method. And then it was difficult to get the pedal to the floor. By contrast, doing the same operation on the front calipers (using the pressure bleeder and not having to push the pedal to the floor) was very easy and efficient.
Old hoses and crudded up bleeder screws are likely culprits. HOWEVER, the extreme effort required to get things dribbling suggests to me one or both rear calipers needs to be rebuilt or replaced. These are often overlooked and it is easy to drive the car and not even be aware that the rear calipers are practically non functional - until you really need them.
Don't waste any more time bleeding. Compress the pads/pistons to determine whether they are free or frozen. By doing so, you might free things up so they can again become functional. Alternatively, you will know you have a problem with the calipers. Sure, old hoses may cause similar problems, but if you can't compress the caliper pistons, then you can try removing the flexible brake hose. If you still can't compress the pistons, it matters little whether the hose is functioning properly or if the fluid passes through the bleeder screw/s.
You do not describe the overall condition of you brakes, e.g., the frequency of maintenance, including the last time things were replaced. Nor do you indicate parking your car smothered in silica gel next to the Blumax. Thus, given the E9's predisposition to embrace moisture, sight unseen, I would expect a dire need to up the brake bleeding routine.
Here's something to look at:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1011126,parttype,1704,partGroup,14
Be advised that the picture of the rear calipers on this site do not appear to be correct in that they do not appear to be wide enough to fit the rear vented rotors on 3.0CS's as opposed to the E3's solid rotors.
http://info.rockauto.com/Cardone/Detail3.htm?/19/19431-01.jpg :cry: So the price may be right for the wrong part! :roll: